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some people are upset that i bought carb jets from a none yamaha dealer, there not genuine ive been told. but what really are genuine yamaha parts? are they genuine just because you buy it from the manufacture who shares the same name as our bikes"yamaha"? heres some facts based on what i see with my eyes everyday. i work in a machine shop where we have several different cnc machines, we make the exact same part and sell them to different companys who say the parts are there own genuine parts, even though there made by me. chances are yamaha genuine parts are made by some other company anyway. something like carb jets can be machined at any machine shop around the world. just some of my thoughts and was wondering what everyone else thought.
 

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It's not that non-yamaha parts aren't genuine. When someone recommends using genuine yamaha jets they know when you install it that it "shouldn't" blow up your engine or cause a rough running bike because the parts have been proven in the field already by that forum member. The flow rating of non-yamaha jets are not as well tested by the forum member offering the advice. They are protecting you.



Dynojet gives their "genuine" jets a number. For example, 130. Yamaha gives their "genuine" jets a number, example 130. BUT, the numbers are just arbitrary and doesn't mean they actually flow close to the same amount of fuel, despite having the same number. You install 130 Dynojet and we meant 130 Yamaha and then your engine goes BOOM and you get mad.



You're looking at it wrong, in my opinion. Lots of genuine parts out there.



I'm running a "genuine" non-yamaha jet.
 

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We are not upset, could even care less on who you buy from and what you buy. It's just when you go looking for help and advice from people that have a great deal more experience than you and then tell those people who are trying to help you the info maybe wrong. ????!!!!



Yamaha OEM jets numbers are just that, a Yamaha number. A known entity, size and reference.



Heres a simple little test... Measure the I.D of the jet you bought and compare it to a measured OEM jet. They are very different.

Even if yamaha has there jets made by another company, they will be to yamaha mfg. specs, sizes and tolerances.
 

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Theres nothing wrong with aftermark parts. OEM parts are known and it just helps us diagnose solutions for common problems.



fyi, a keyster #116 jet is larger than a yamaha #118 jet. Since it is larger than the yamaha #116 it will flow more which will change other other characteristics, which will change other parameters, which will change the running and performance of your bike and then you will post a problem/issue and .............................
 

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Since stock jets cost all of $3.50, no sense buying unknowns. If stock jets were $30, I'd be running something different.



Stock chains are junk. No sense buying a "genuine" chain that will worry me to death with maintenance and last 20% of an aftermarket o-ring chain.



Nobody has a problem with aftermarket parts. Just don't expect sound advice on the use of them from people who don't see a value benefit in them and thus don't use them.
 

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When you buy yamaha parts even if another company made them they will stand behind the product. Some after market companies will do the same witch is why these forms are great so you can find those companies with out having to test it out yourself. If you do your own work on your bike and use unknown parts it's much harder to find the problem if one persists and say goodbye to warrenty if you have one. (it's also a little like getting advice online you might not get what you want)

P.S. The last thing is not a dig on anyone but you've all read some crazy stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #7
wow, that got taken the wrong way. i was just wondering what people thought about a company buying parts and then putting there own stamp on them. but just to say, i bought a genuine yamaha jet, #130 for like 4.27 or so. i took it to work and used an optical comparator to compare it to the #130 jet i got from www.jetsrus.com as far as a quick visual inspection there was no difference between them. as far as actual measurements they were almost the same. there where spots i found a difference of about .0006 as for the hole dimension i compared them using a calibrated plug gage which i double checked with two different micrometers. i found them to be close enough to where i could not measure a difference. if your a machinist youll know measuring a jet is pretty easy if you have the right devices and know how to use them. im saving the yamaha jet cause its brand new, but with the other one installed the bike seems to love it. good idle and throttle responce.
 

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Is there a brand name on those jets anywhere?



It's handy to know when there are direct correllations. As everyone has pointed out, a 130 Mikuni does not necessarily correlate with a 130 Teikei, Keihin or anything else for that matter. Since you're a machinist with all those cool gizmos to work with, take one for the team.



Needles in particular almost never swap between brands. Different tapers cause things to happen at weird times.
 

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The hole diameter is one of many variables.

  • Thread type - my Mikuni jet actually has interference with the carb threads that most don't care for when installing; and I don't blame them. I'd do it different if I started over again.
  • Length of thread - this 130 or that 130 may have same hole ID but are thread lengths the same?
  • Head shape - hex-headed or round-headed; could it interfere with other parts within the carb?
  • Head height - could too tall of a head interfere with bottom of bowl?
  • Head diameter - how big is the round or hex? large or small? could it interfere with other parts within the carb?
  • Jet end shape - how well does it meet up with the emulsion tube? Do some extend beyond the threads more or less than others?
  • Etc. - chamfered edges on jets, lead in and out diameters,
Measuring hole ID is one step closer, but flow should be measured on a bench for certainty between two jets, if we really want to split hairs. So, to make things easy and not discourage members who are new to jetting to deal with ordering mistakes, we just say use part # ABC123.





Lot of companies claim vendored/purchased parts as "their own" but primarily through their own part numbering system. They might stamp them if it was co-designed piece between manufacturer and vendor. It's a big business entity that brings in "easy" revenue. You break a part, it's stamped with the manufacturer's name so you request new part from that manufacturer, they order it from a vendor, then ship it to you for a mark-up.



The partnership between vendor and manufacturer is what allows this. Just like you can machine a part but your company can sell it as "theirs"...you have a partnership with your company that your skills are marketed/advertised as the company's skill-set.



One can do research for these off-the-shelf parts and oust the middleman (the manufacturer) and order directly from the vendor. Jets, relays, blinkers, tires, pistons, CDI's, etc are examples of this. You could try rear brake pads too but it's been found on here that the pads from Yamaha are the best.
 

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The reason so many people are against aftermarket jets is that a bunch of us got burned by "bad" aftermarket kits which claimed to be replacements for the Yamaha carbs on the TWs. Rather than throw money into a fire people suggest replacing your carb parts with Genuine parts so that they will actually work on your TW unlike some of these aftermarket parts available.



Are the "Genuine" Yamaha parts made by Yamaha? Not always. These carbs are manufactured by several different vendors - Teikei, Mikuni, etc. But they are the correct parts for our carbs. I don't care what name is on it, but if its not the right specs, or doesn't replace my factory part in a functional manner, its all garbage to me. Waste of time and money. I'd rather be right than take a shortcut (like I did before) and get burned.
 

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Well put, EnduroRdr.



There are times when dealing with the vendors is beneficial. I'm researching a new print process for my garment graphics shop. A turn-key set-up from the normal suppliers is $400 for the special printer, $400 for software to do the graphics and operate the special printer (that any digital graphics shop has or has the equivalent, $300 for the cure machine, and the components can be had along with $300 worth of the special print substrates for about $1100. Doesn't seem like a bad deal when you get $1400 worth of tools and consumables for $300 off.



Not a good deal. I did a little detective work and determined that the special printer is the same as a commonly available unit with a recognized brand name--same part numbers for the special ink, replacement parts, drivers, etc. The only difference between the special printers and the name brand printer is an optional memory module that isn't really necessary. I can buy the manufacturer's printer from a number of onlines source for about $115 shipped. It comes with the special ink and normal ink, the branded printers don't come with normal ink. I can buy a cure unit in a package with $300 worth of special substrate for $470. I'm in business for $585 instead of $1100.



In short, none of the components are special. The process itself is a new use of existing products.
 
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