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Hey ya'll! Recently purchased my first TW and I love it! The only problem is, it wont run :(. Ive been on several adventures with her but last Thursday it decided to stop running. Here is what is going on:

It will turn over but wont start. There is no spark in the spark plug so I though the spark plug was bad so I replaced that. Still no spark on the plug. I then tested the coil assembly and found out that wasn't working so I replaced that with a new spark assembly. My next thought was maybe the CDI Unit was bad, so I took my CDI unit to my buddys TW that is running and my CDI unit worked on his bike but wont work on mine. I even took his CDI unit and tried it on mine but still nothing.

Has anyone had any similar troubles and if so how did you fix it? I would love any help/tips on how to fix this because I have a bear hunt coming up and would love to use my TW up in the mountains looking for some bears!

This is my baby before she started acting up ;)
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How does your battery test out? Maybe swap in your buddy’s battery to rule it out if you haven’t already. Next on my list would be to check all the safety switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How does your battery test out? Maybe swap in your buddy’s battery to rule it out if you haven’t already. Next on my list would be to check all the safety switches.
Tested my battery and its running 12V. I even checked the kickstand as well, I need to test it though to see. What other safety switches are there? Thanks for your help!
 

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A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, that number should be between 13.7 and 14.7 volts.
If the battery is reading at 12.4 volts, then it’s 75% charged. At 12 volts, it drops to 25%. Once the battery reads at 11.8 volts, it’s considered to be completely discharged.
Given that your bike only has the button start, it’s likely the starter motor is flattening it when you try to start

There are several cut-outs on the TW – ignition key switch – kill switch – side stand – clutch – and neutral switch, anyone of which can deny a spark …..
 

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Both of mine will sometimes not start off the button. First time it happened to me I would have sworn it didn't have spark while using the starter. Put it all back together in disgust, stared at it for a minute, then gave it a kick. It fired right up. Now when either one doesn't light right up off the starter, they get a kick (sometimes 2) and I'm back in business. Never been stranded so I haven't investigated too deep. I know that it's a somewhat common TW ailment though.
Have you tried push starting yours?
 

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Some TW's don't like to have their start button pushed for a long time. Try just a quick bump on the starter button...
 

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However the engine turning over under starter motor & the no spark sort of rules out the quick bump or battery concerns mentioned so far.
Certainly a CDI swap test requires compatible model TWs taking identical CDI. May we assume this is verified?
May we assume of the three coil like devices on the TW you are referring to having replaced the coil located on the top frame connected directly to the spark plug?
This leaves the stator assembly induction and pulsor coils under the left side cover as well as wiring issues as possible sources of the no-spark condition.
What am I forgetting, or fault in deductive logic train?

I would do an impedance test of the stator & its wiring leads at the connector located under the seat . Trace wires from let side engine cover to the terminal block, disconnect and measure ohms. Downloadable service manual has proper values among a wealth of other knowledge.
Anyone have a quick link to the manuals for one of our newest members?

P.S.- WELCOME!
 

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However the engine turning over under starter motor & the no spark sort of rules out the quick bump or battery concerns mentioned so far.
Certainly a CDI swap test requires compatible model TWs taking identical CDI. May we assume this is verified?
May we assume of the three coil like devices on the TW you are referring to having replaced the coil located on the top frame connected directly to the spark plug?
This leaves the stator assembly induction and pulsor coils under the left side cover as well as wiring issues as possible sources of the no-spark condition.
What am I forgetting, or fault in deductive logic train?

I would do an impedance test of the stator & its wiring leads at the connector located under the seat . Trace wires from let side engine cover to the terminal block, disconnect and measure ohms. Downloadable service manual has proper values among a wealth of other knowledge.
Anyone have a quick link to the manuals for one of our newest members?

P.S.- WELCOME!
I should have stated that this was just general information, not for his specific problem.
 

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Good info littletommy! No critique intended.
One of my TW bike likes the quick bump at times when sustained cranking fails.
Was focusing on the no spark clue, sorry.
 

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On my 87 if I held the button down, it would just crank and crank, but just a touch of the button, VRRROOOOOOOM!! (y)
 

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Make sure it is in neutral, kickstand down, pull the clutch in, kill switch in the run position, petcock on reserve, and give it a shot.
 

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I guess the kill switch position could allow starter operation without a spark. Good point.
 

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Some bikes are a little picky. I just realized on my Honda the other day that it won't start in gear with the clutch pulled in. It has to be in neutral. I thought that was odd. My list above kind of puts everything in the order of it should start. I had another bike that would die when I put the kickstand up, bad kickstand switch. If I were in the habit of trying to start with it up I may have never figured it out. I'm cheap so I just silicone sprayed the switch and moved it back and forth a lot and it rarely gives me an issue.
 

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The TW has sort of low end electronics compared to other Yamahas like the ATVs. If the kill switch is off on an ATV the starter will not work. Not so on a TW, they assume you are smart enough to have it in run I guess! Also the battery is just for lights and starter, nothing at all to do with ignition.
 

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The started has to turn the motor fast enough to start. A weak battery will crank the motor but not fast enough to start. I have never check to see if it had even a weak spark when not cranking fast enough to start. A battery can have normal voltage when checked but drop fast when ask to work.
 

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First thing I would do is stick a set of jumper cables on it and try again.

It is called a battery test.

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Discussion Starter #17
However the engine turning over under starter motor & the no spark sort of rules out the quick bump or battery concerns mentioned so far.
Certainly a CDI swap test requires compatible model TWs taking identical CDI. May we assume this is verified?
May we assume of the three coil like devices on the TW you are referring to having replaced the coil located on the top frame connected directly to the spark plug?
This leaves the stator assembly induction and pulsor coils under the left side cover as well as wiring issues as possible sources of the no-spark condition.
What am I forgetting, or fault in deductive logic train?

I would do an impedance test of the stator & its wiring leads at the connector located under the seat . Trace wires from let side engine cover to the terminal block, disconnect and measure ohms. Downloadable service manual has proper values among a wealth of other knowledge.
Anyone have a quick link to the manuals for one of our newest members?

P.S.- WELCOME!
Thanks for your help! I started with the spark and tested all the wires until I got to the source coil which read a couple hundred off! So I've ordered a new stator assembly and that should fix the problem.

Thanks for your help!
 

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I would disconnect the ground wires, clean the terminals and eliminate the possibility of a bad ground connection before buying anything.
 

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Thanks for your help! I started with the spark and tested all the wires until I got to the source coil which read a couple hundred off! So I've ordered a new stator assembly and that should fix the problem.

Thanks for your help!
make sure key and on/ off sw are both on. Use jumpers from a good ground and hold red to starter wire. If it starts it will be most likely be the relay or the key sw
 
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