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I have an XT225 crankshaft I picked up for a song but it needs a new connecting rod. I found a new connecting rod on Aliexpress and a place in Arizona that will do the work but they want the crankshaft completely stripped before proceeding. A quick trip to Harbor Freight for a gear puller, I installed the gear puller and tightened the removing / center bolt to the point I can't make it any tighter plus I fear damaging the sprocket, and the dang thing hasn't shown a hint of movement. I tried tapping on it with a hammer and applying heat with a propane torch and no luck.

I am open to suggestions.



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I have an XT225 crankshaft I picked up for a song but it needs a new connecting rod. I found a new connecting rod on Aliexpress and a place in Arizona that will do the work but they want the crankshaft completely stripped before proceeding. A quick trip to Harbor Freight for a gear puller, I installed the gear puller and tightened the removing / center bolt to the point I can't make it any tighter plus I fear damaging the sprocket, and the dang thing hasn't shown a hint of movement. I tried tapping on it with a hammer and applying heat with a propane torch and no luck.

I am open to suggestions.



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Hi elime,
With the puller fully tightened try giving the centre (sorry, center lol) bolt a few smart taps with a hammer. With luck the tension and the shock should move it
Edit: Sorry, just re-read it and realised you've tried tapping it. Doh!
 

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Bigger hammer, hit it harder, Penetrating oil and more heat?
 

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I used that exact style of puller to remove my timing gear ....... twice ........ since I got the orientation wrong on install the first time around. I didn't use the crank bolt, instead I used the flat snap head and a sacrificial piece of 3/16" thick aluminum between the crank nose and flat snap head. I wouldn't want to apply force to the crank bolt threads the way you have it currently set up.

It takes a lot of force and will "SNAP" and "PING" as its being removed. It will work you'll just have to come on to it. I used my big impact gun and heated it with a MAP torch. Put the crank in a vice pinching on the the webs only ...... then set your self up heat the fuck out of it and give it hell.

For install I put the crank in the freezer overnight and then heated the bering and gear up and they dropped right on into postion. I use a small old toaster oven and aluminum baking pan ... submerged the gear and bearing in ATF fluid and heated to 250-300 for 10-15min or so.

Pay close attention to the "DOT" on the gear face, It aligns dead center with the keyway in the crank ..... and if you use my above tricks you have seconds to align it before it cools tight.
 

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The bolt is bottomed out but still I wondered how wise it was to apply force to it. I will remove it and start over. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I also pulled it via the toothed gear not the upper lip that your puller is set up on .... which seemed sketchy at the time but worked fine.

Also when you tighten the clamp halves for the puller just snug them up. If you over tighten them it applies additional clamping friction to the press fit piece.
 

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My gear/bearing splitter doesn't have a very clean edge (lots of use) so I couldn't set up on the upper lip effectively.

If you are getting a good bite on that lip I would leave it "as is" and not risk damaging a tooth.

Also don't use the flared snap or anything that goes inside the crank nose. You want the transition to be solid and linear, and add some aluminum to stop the snap from marring up the crank nose though.
 

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With the puller setup and in place with tension, rather than try to heat up the whole sprocket, try heating it fast and hot inbetween the teeth in only one spot. You may be transferring the heat to the shaft and expanding it as well by trying to heat the whole thing up at one time. Quick hot heat in one place only and a good swing with the hammer...

***after it's cooled down from previous attempts ;)
 

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Try putting it in the freezer and then heating the sprocket.
 

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I am not an expert, but your puller does look kinda wimpy. There are lots of cheap pullers that use a hydraulic jack like the one that the ¨no assembly grease" guy uses.
 
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