[BigJimmyW13]

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[BigJimmyW13]

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[Purple]

Have you fitted LED indicators ?

 

[Purple]

To solve this particular conundrum, you need to clear your head over the “10 wires” issue, and first concentrate on getting your turn signals working correctly

LED turn signals have a lower resistance rating, and can confuse your flasher unit. It’s a bit like having one bulb blown, causing the remaining bulb to stay on constant – not enough resistance to allow the bi-metal strip in the flasher unit to perform

There are two ways around this problem – either you can start wiring in diodes (thus increasing the resistance) – or you can opt for a digital flasher unit rated for your indicators (available from your local stockist or on-line). This second option is less confusing, and a cheap alternative unless you know what you’re doing

http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/11142-led-turn-signals-anyone.html - post #5

The matter is further confused by having the two front blinkers stay on permanently as per US regulations – get the wires mixed up and “oh boy” – so the first thing to do is to check that your LED indicators (if you’ve bought a completely new set of them) has the requisite wiring – two wires for the back pair, and three wires for the front pair. This is partly the reason for so many earth wires laying around the place, and why you need to keep them intact and as they are

The following paragraph is pure guess work based on logic, and not reliant on any wiring diagram – so take it as starting point, and try to get your head around the principle ….

(With all indicators in place) - With your indicator switch in the “off” position, find the one wire of three leading to the front indicators that still has a 12v supply – that’s your “constant on” supply. Then disconnect the wires to the flasher unit, and try the remaining two wires to find the “ground”. With the indicators attached to the circuit, try it to confirm. This leaves one wire, check it for continuity to the (still detached) wire to the flasher unit – that’s your bunny

Once you get your head around the principle, the rest is easy – one wire for constant – one wire for ground – one wire to the flasher unit. Repeat the process for the rear indicators, one wire for ground – the other one has to lead back to the flasher

This all depends on having a “digital” flasher unit, and front (at least) indicators with three wires – you can forget about the “dash” bulb for now – just get those indicators wired up correctly

Confirm, and I’ll get back to you on how to deal with those “ten wires” on your speedo ……..

 

[BigJimmyW13]

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[Purple]

OK - so what make is this new speedo ? - and what year is your bike ?

 

[Purple]

“So this is where I'm confused on the Neutral/Turn Signal wiring; why are they sharing the hot wire and not the ground?! How does that work?”

From what I can gather, the neutral switch / light needs an independent (return) wire as part of the safety cut-out

Having sorted most of this out (yourself) — no diode kit req, neutral light etc — can you re-write the remaining problems ?

Your original post is a lot to get my head around — so let’s try to narrow this down a bit ……

 

[supachip1]

Who can save this Bropunzel from his cursed wiring tower of doom?...hahaha, nice one!


the front indicators will work like the brake light...on all the time, then brighter when switched left or right. so its a 2 element bulb

this could still be erratic due to the wrong relay, mine worked perfectly until i flicked high beam on, it was due to 2 x 35x headlights drawing too much power, so changed to LED headlights. the late model tw are ok and just flash quicker, its the dash bulbs that throws it all out..well in my experience anyway, could also depend on the LED's purchased.



front running lights,= 1 x black, 1 x 12v brown (dimmest)
indicators flashing L/R = 1 x dark brown / 1 x dark green (brightest ).... these are separate from speedo wiring

to get the speedo lights working individually


disclaimer....there have been 2 posts since i started typing this so if its already been covered forget all of the above!!

back light = 12v brown + black

high beam indicator - yellow(double connecter from headlight) + black

turn indicator - brown/white= ground, brown = 12v

neutral - sky blue = ground, brown =12v,

its better to wire these separately, my high beam light flashes with the indicator one because...... i was stupid...i was trying to think of a reason but couldn't.

hope some of that made sense

 

[BigJimmyW13]

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[Purple]

Thinking about it – the original bulbs are simply a push fit – there must be a similar way on your new speedo

And if so – well, you can see where this is going ……

 

[BigJimmyW13]

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[BigJimmyW13]

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[Purple]

Is there no way of ripping those bulbs out and shoving the originals in there ?

 

[BigJimmyW13]

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[Purple]

Cool - I'll do some digging and get back to you tomorrow .....

 

[BigJimmyW13]

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[supachip1]

so, the blue back light wire on a later TW is in the round white connector, this is not necessary to use, your back light just needs a 12v+ (TW brown) and ground.

1 wire from your indicator light goes to brown/white, the other goes to brown on the 6 pin connector, (you can add the back light here)

the neutral light works by breaking the ground, this is where most speedos like yours have a problem because they are joined inside and the neutral light wont go out.

so neutral light wires are reversed, i have found some LEDS wont work this way.

i have got everything working without diodes or changing the relay on the later models, the only issues i had was 1 time the original tw indicator dash light causing them not to flash properly, i removed it and it worked, the other was when i was using a twin headlight with 2 x35x halogens.

hummm...i didnt see your last post... you got it sorted already

 

[BigJimmyW13]

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