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I broke my foot on Sunday in a farming mishap. Broke 3 metatarsals in my right foot, a Jones fracture and the doc says a possibility of ligment damage. So far I have opted not to get any pins and screws, go back in 2 weeks and hopefully get my hard non walking cast for another 6 week minimum heal.

I have a fairly fresh tank ful of 92 octane ethanol in my tw, bug there is some ethanol left from the previous owner I couldn't siphon out when I did my initial removal of his gas from the tank. I am fairly well hobbled up and gimping around on crutches and trying out one of those peg leg walker things so am not completely mobile. I took a quick look yesterday at my lonely bike, trying to see how to drain the carb, but didn't see anything that resembles taking a screw out to drain and another to remove the bowl type set up that I am familiar with. I would also like to drain the tank. Are there any relatively easy ways to do it ? She was running good and I do not want to gum up that carb or rust the tank with old gas !


Anything else I should do to my bike for semi long term storage ? I'm out of it for a minimum of about 8 weeks and possibly more.
 

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OldMan, I am sorry to hear about your injury. I feel like close calls with older equipment is a regular for me sometimes when doing my farm work. Anyhow, I really do hope you heal up quickly and wish you my best.

As for the gas, the easiest way is to shut off petcock and run engine until it dies. That does a pretty good job of emptying the bowl. As for the tank, the easiest way would be to just pinch and remove fuel line from tank to carb and drain into a container for either reuse or preferably disposal.

Heal up!
 

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Drain the tank by pulling the fuel line off the carb and let her drain. Try to get as much fuel out of it as possible. Then fill it back up with fresh Ethanol FREE fuel with a good dose of Stabil gas treatment. Run it for a little bit to get the treated gas into the carb and forget about it. No need to take things apart for a couple months or less, IMHO.

Every couple weeks go out and start her up and let it run till good and warm. Rev it up a few times. You'll be bored and wanting to get back on the bike so this will help scratch that itch.
 

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If you drain the tank, it's a good idea to spray fogging oil inside to prevent rust. I usually fill the tank full of non ethanol gas with stabilizer for storage.

There is a list of storage tips on p 7-3 and 7-4 of the TW Owner's Manual.

jb
 

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I broke my foot on Sunday in a farming mishap...... I took a quick look yesterday at my lonely bike, trying to see how to drain the carb, but didn't see anything that resembles taking a screw out to drain and .....
OOOWWWW! :eek: That sucks! The float bowl drain screw is facing forward at the bottom of the float bowl and drains through the black tube down behind the transmission. If you do not have a set of JIS screwdrivers it is best to just run it dry. A Phillips is sure to bugger up that little screw. You don't remove it, just back out until fuel flows from the tube. When you drain the tank have someone set the bike on its left side to get the little bit of gas that is still in the right rear part of the tank.

If you can find some non ethanol fuel and fill up with that you can easily go three months without any gum. I leave my bike that way all winter, Nov. to March, with an ounce of Stabil and haven't had problems. Idaho is drier than NC, though. Pump up the tires to about 23 psi and put the battery on a trickle once a month and she'll be fine. Hopefully you will be too. :cool:
 

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I hate to hear of your injury, and like all the rest of us here, wish you the best, quickest recovery possible. As for the TW, I agree with the leave the tank full for storage, especially in areas with high humidity as you could get condensation inside an empty or partially full tank. I also believe in fuel stabilizer to prevent the fuel from degrading. And being a frugal guy, I would use the fuel in one of my vehicles I use on a regular basis if you choose to drain it. Best wishes from KS.
 

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8 weeks or longer does not seem like long term storage, especially in the summer months. As such a thorough mothballing may not be necessary considering the limited mobility due to foot in a cast. The fresh gas should be good for the stated period, especially if a fuel stabilizer is added. This would be the simplest approach for a fellow with foot in a cast.
While likely not absolutely necessary one can drain the tank and carb. A simple way to drain both carb and tank is through the carb drain filling as Rocky identified. Screw is readily loosened with the OEM JIS driver located in the OEM tool kit located behind the right side plastic cover. A pan can be placed under the bike to collect all the drained fuel from both tank and carb, just takes 10 minutes or more. Loosening gas cap helps to facilitate venting.
Hope the bones knit quickly and there is no ligament damage. Best wishes.
 

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You've gotten good advice and I could add only this:
If you decide to store it with full tank, get it as full as you can. Upright rather than leaned over is better.
You can get moisture condensation in the air space.

Really sorry about the foot...be careful & heal quick.

And one other thing:
You can still "take names" but lay off the "kickin' ass" for a while!
 
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