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Discussion Starter #1
I tried re-installing my engine today by myself but gave up. Anybody got any tips or suggestions on the best way to do this? I tried getting the swingarm bolt lined up first, but now I am thinking that maybe attaching the top engine mount first would be the best.

What approach works the best when you don't have an extra set of hands to help get things positioned and secured?

 

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i did this yesterday on my BW. it's NOT easy or quick.
i secured the top mount first - then the swingarm pivot.
i actually used the end of my son's skateboard under the motor to raise the motor into place.
sit down near the rear tyre, relax and take it slow.
you'll get there.
i did

ken in NZ.
 

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Here's how I did it on my SP500... it went much more smoothly than I had anticipated.

Now, my SP frame was totally devoid of ANYTHING else, and it was sitting on a picnic table. So I got up on the table and straddled the frame and the motor, which was placed right next to the frame on the right.

Then, I just bent down and carefully picked up the motor (fookin' heavy) and set it into the frame. It was cock-eyed at first, but a little fiddling and I got it in place so that both lower holes were in the proper position.

Once that was done, I took one of the lower bolts, and started it in, and while doing so, lifted up on the motor a little til I got it through. Then did the same with the rear. Then I went around it and attached all the others. I didn't tighten anything down til they were all in place.
 

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when I assembled mine the first time I set the motor up on a crate. I have a hoist I use sometimes from my shop ceiling so I pulled up the bike and slid the crate/motor under it. Then the bike got lower into place. Top mount first front second and the little rear one last. All of the were left loose till I could slide the swing arm on and get that big 'ol pivot bolt in there. I torqued them all down installed the wheel and set it down. from there the rest is history
 

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when I assembled mine the first time I set the motor up on a crate. I have a hoist I use sometimes from my shop ceiling so I pulled up the bike and slid the crate/motor under it. Then the bike got lower into place. Top mount first front second and the little rear one last. All of the were left loose till I could slide the swing arm on and get that big 'ol pivot bolt in there. I torqued them all down installed the wheel and set it down. from there the rest is history
That is exactly how I did it when I rebuilt my 02 only I had the frame suspended from the ceiling with ratchet straps. Worked great.
 

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I put a floor jack under the motor and slowly lift it in to place. I also put a cam style tie down to the top of the engine mount to make sure the motor does not get away from me and allows a bit more control for the first bolt. The chassis is tied down to my lift table, is level, and cant rise much....Easy as can be and a one person job, especially with the lift table set at waist high. I always start with the swingarm bolt and the top bolt next. Only tighten bolts after all are in place, of course....a wooden hammer is your friend....I have done 2 tw installs this year and it is about a 15 min job for the basic install...Here is another tip: When I remove the swingarm bolt as I am removing the motor I replace the bolt with 2 short socket extensions, one on each side....Long enough to hold the swingarm in place but short enough to remove the motor. This way you can easily roll the chassis around the shop while your 6 speeder is readied! Then remove one after the motor is lined up and drive the other out the other side with the bolt...easy!
 

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Clever advice folks. I have found having bike vertical really helps on many projects.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Success at last!

Yesterday I tried again to wrestle my TTR226 engine into a TW200 frame. I tried at least 4 times but just couldn't seem to get things lined up well enough to allow the rear crankcase mounts to engage with the corresponding frame mounts.

100_5217.JPG

It turns out that I didn't have an alignment problem, but an interference problem! A few measurements showed that the rear portion of the TTR crankcase that needs to fit between the swingarm was 0.050" wider than the TW engine that came out of this frame. I am not sure if this is by design, or if there is just that much variation in these castings. I figured that it shouldn't be that big of a deal to just remove some material from each side of the crankcase castings to get the clearance that I needed.

I started using a hand file but wasn't making much progress so I got out a Dremel with a grinding sleeve on the tip and whoa . . . . sparks - aluminum is not supposed to create sparks! Well it turns out that there is a steel sleeve pressed into each crankcase half. There was no easy way for me to remove enough material from these steel sleeves, so time to go to Plan B.

100_5216.JPG

Here is what I had to use in order to remove the rear wheel and swingarm. Front and rear bike stands and a floor jack to support the frame.

100_5226.JPG

Here is what I ended up having to do to get the clearance that I needed for the wider TTR engine to fit the TW swingarm. See how the bushings/sleeve protrude into the swingarm opening? I pulled these sleeves out and ground each of them shorter so that they just barely protruded into the swingarm opening. I probably took off more material than necessary, but I sure didn't want to have to tear things apart to take off more.

100_5221.JPG

After reassembling the swingarm and remounting the swingarm/shock so I could free up the floor jack, I then gave it another go at mounting the engine. (I am getting pretty good at balancing the engine on the floor jack with one hand and rolling/raising/lowering/positioning the jack with the other!) This time it was just the usual lining up process and I was able to get the swingarm pivot bolt in first, followed by the top bracket, followed by the bottom rear, and finally the lower front mounts.

Here it is with the engine fully mounted and secured in place.

100_5235.JPG
 

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Wow Brian, you really worked hard to get things fitted. Even more impressive than your solution solving was that you took the time to photograph everything so that we numbskulls won't have to re-invent the wheel should we do an engine swap. Thanks for the great write-up as usual.
 
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