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A friend of the family wanted me to service her push mower for her. Sure, I can do that. I'll change the oil and sharpen the blade, clean the air filter, and it will be all set for next spring. Couldn't find a drain plug, so I looked up the manual online and it says, "no oil changes needed for life"!? Here is a LINK, see for yourself. It must not last long with that philosophy!
 

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I would argue you could do that with any lawn mower. I'd say you could do that for quite some time before any apparent consequence. But most mechanically inclined people know the truth- you don't not change the oil in any engine. Old becomes contaminated with blowback from combustion, as well as metal filings from both engine break in and normal wear and tear.

If you've ever seen oil coming out of propane fueled vehicles during an oil change, it's pretty darn clean. There's still blowback and metal contaminants, but not carbon from combustion (or at least not much of it). Doesn't mean it all shouldn't be changed.

The only thing special about the Briggs & Stratton EXi series is that Briggs & Stratton sells the engine as special.

Design an engine where the oil is contained in the oil filter after shutdown and by changing the filter you change the oil, and turn in the filter to a recycling center. That I might buy.
 

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I would be forced to stuff a suction hose down the fill tube and suction the old oil out before adding all new oil. Oil is cheap compared to engines. This mower IMO is a throw away when something does break. I have a Troybilt rototiller with a B&S engine that is around 38 years old. It runs like a charm after I rebuild the simple carb ever few years and change the oil often. Starts on one pull every year and is just a great engine.

GaryL
 

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I've fooled around with a lot of b&s in lawn tractors over the last 10 years and from what I've seen is that most people don't even check the oil, let alone change it. I think briggs knows that and knows the owner will blow it up because there is no oil in it and that will be the life of the motor. I've rescued a few lawn tractors that have been kicked to the curb because the rod was hanging out the side of the engine
 

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Yep, oil is good for the life of the engine. The life of the engine is over when it seizes up or throws a rod because of dirty or low oil.
These engines probably do not have rod or wrist pin bearings at all. Maybe not even main bearings. Just metal to metal until they wear out.
They are not rebuildable, the factory probably does not even sell parts. Just a throw away product.
 

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I have a Walmart push mower with a Honda engine. Same thing, no drain plug. I tip it up on its wheels with the fill cap off to drain oil, then re fill. What Phelonius said. Life of the mower is when it seizes up or just quits working.
Funny though, my dad didn't worry about dirty oil as long as it had viscosity. Glad I didn't carry that tradition on.
 

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I've fooled around with a lot of b&s in lawn tractors over the last 10 years and from what I've seen is that most people don't even check the oil, let alone change it. I think briggs knows that and knows the owner will blow it up because there is no oil in it and that will be the life of the motor. I've rescued a few lawn tractors that have been kicked to the curb because the rod was hanging out the side of the engine
I was talking to a Sears salesman about this fact. He said Briggs did a study and found most owners do little or nothing to maintain their products and the no oil changes ever was a good selling point. Makes me wonder how long it will be until auto manufactures get on the idea.
 

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I was talking to a Sears salesman about this fact. He said Briggs did a study and found most owners do little or nothing to maintain their products and the no oil changes ever was a good selling point. Makes me wonder how long it will be until auto manufactures get on the idea.
They already have caught on to that idea. Most of them now used "greased for life" joints and have non serviceable wheel bearings. My experience with both of these things have been terrible, I dive 4wd trucks and no matter who makes it im putting wheel bearings in it at 30-40k and ones that have had "greased for life" joints have failed way too soon too. My 2014 Silverado already needs upper joints at 50k. My old2006 Silverado that i gave to me nephew has zerks on all of the joints still to this day has the original factory front end and its tight with 250k on the clock.

My Honda push mowed has no drain plug either, the manual actually tells you to put it on its side to dump the oil. Pretty dumb idea in my book.
 

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A friend of the family wanted me to service her push mower for her. Sure, I can do that. I'll change the oil and sharpen the blade, clean the air filter, and it will be all set for next spring. Couldn't find a drain plug, so I looked up the manual online and it says, "no oil changes needed for life"!? Here is a LINK, see for yourself. It must not last long with that philosophy!
Frankly I never change my walk behind mower's oil....of the 3, the oldest is 8 years...all still running! Crazy, I know, I do change filters, sharpen blades, etc...but frankly most mowers use oil at a rate that adding a bit as needed, seems to be all they need. Snow Blowers and Riding Machines? Not so much!
 

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We just bought a new Jeep CK. The owners manual goes into great detail on setting up the sound system but nothing about maintaining the Jeep itself. I asked the sales lady about it. Her reply? Most people just bring it back here....They don't want to get their hands dirty!
 

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We have 2 new vehicles, Toyota 4 runner and a Lexus RX350 and both came with free customer care for 2 years or 24K miles. That includes oil and filter changes, tire rotation and all fluids checked and filled. After the free services they will charge me $199 each time for each car. I have news for them. An oil change with the filter might cost me around $35-40 and my hands are dirty all the time any way. Rotating tires gives me the peace of mind knowing it was done and done right and while there I can check the brakes and a lot of other stuff. Most people never get to see the under side of their cars and would not have a clue what is really going on so they get taken to the cleaners by the dealers. On my traded Tacoma the dealer informed me it would be time for a brake job at the next service. That was at 20K miles. I got home and inspected them and later at 45K the brakes are still just fine.

GaryL
 

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We have 2 new vehicles, Toyota 4 runner and a Lexus RX350 and both came with free customer care for 2 years or 24K miles. That includes oil and filter changes, tire rotation and all fluids checked and filled. After the free services they will charge me $199 each time for each car. I have news for them. An oil change with the filter might cost me around $35-40 and my hands are dirty all the time any way. Rotating tires gives me the peace of mind knowing it was done and done right and while there I can check the brakes and a lot of other stuff. Most people never get to see the under side of their cars and would not have a clue what is really going on so they get taken to the cleaners by the dealers. On my traded Tacoma the dealer informed me it would be time for a brake job at the next service. That was at 20K miles. I got home and inspected them and later at 45K the brakes are still just fine.

GaryL
My GM vehicle specifically says - Air cleaner should not be opened except to replace filter. It has a vacuum module in line with green - yellow - red to see if the filter is clogged. It's stayed green for 90k miles and I replaced it. Every time i went in for warrantee work from 0-75k miles the SA said " the mechanic looked at your air filter and it's in terrible shape and needs replacement " it had never been opened as I had dotted a bolt with a silver sharpie.
When I pulled it at 90k it really looked like new with only some grey discoloration.


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My GM vehicle specifically says - Air cleaner should not be opened except to replace filter. It has a vacuum module in line with green - yellow - red to see if the filter is clogged. It's stayed green for 90k miles and I replaced it. Every time i went in for warrantee work from 0-75k miles the SA said " the mechanic looked at your air filter and it's in terrible shape and needs replacement " it had never been opened as I had dotted a bolt with a silver sharpie.
When I pulled it at 90k it really looked like new with only some grey discoloration.


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LOL, i love dealerships and the crap they try to pull.

i have had a few doozies over the years. My fav was my Dodge when the dealer told me i needed new brakes, they were "shot". I just had put a brand new Wilwood big brake kit in the front and rear to fix the woeful brakes that Dodge put in from the factory, the truck only had ~10k on the clock at the time too. I have no idea how dumb they think i am but im pretty sure i would know that i just spent over 4k for a performance brake upgrade that i installed myself. The service manager did not like me when i was done with him and his boss.

Another good one happened to a buddy of mine when his truck failed state inspection because his ball joints and rod ends were shot. He brought the truck to the dealer since he had an extended service plan and they were very smug and condescending when the told him that it wasn't covered because the front end was never greased. When he handed them a stack of receipt for service that the dealer had done stating oil changes, chassis lube and tire rotation the service manager almost had a heart attack. dumb on them for not even looking at the trucks service history. It was there for every scheduled oil change and all other required maint.
 

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We have a 14 Grand Cherokee SRT and a 15 GMC Sierra Denali.

Both had 2yr 24k full service.
So far, no issues with the GMC. The GMC dealer has been outstanding, even extending the "free" service period.

The Jeep dealer tried to sell me front brakes and had the balls to actually bring me back in the service bay and show me 3 other SRT Cherokees in for brakes. I picked up a new pad and compared it to the old ones as we walked through while he was spewing serious bullshit. All of the pads were practically new thickness.

I then explained to him my history of running a shop. He told me things are different today and I should just get the brakes done, and it would be on my conscious if I drove around with a dangerous vehicle.

The letter sent to the zone rep did not put the dealership in a favorable light.

At least when the idiots at the local quickie lube try to sell me a cabin or air filter, they own up to it when I tell them what car the filter they are holding came from (hint: not mine).

It has become a veritable minefield to go out and get your car serviced. Can only imagine what happens to people who don't have a clue about cars.
 
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