[SpicyPlops]

I just purchased a new 2023 TW200 from a dealer. It had under 1 mile on it when I picked it up. I trailered it home which is about an hour from the dealer. When I got home and tried to ride it, I noticed that shifting was a real pain. I had to at times push the clutch forward with my hand. It was also more of an on or off than a gradual transfer of power making the bike lunge forward and at times die. There was also quite a bit of a burning clutch smell going on and quite a bit of clutch slipping while driving without using the clutch. For instance, going down the road in 4th or 5th gear the engine would rev up and felt like I was pulling on the clutch a slight bit slipping it while driving down the road. I didn’t know if it was just new bike smell, but I get the feeling it was the clutch.

After a bit of riding and quite a bit of fiddling, I decided this just couldn’t be right. I had tried to adjust the clutch freeplay but something about the way the clutch lever was just hanging around didn’t seem right. I followed the clutch cable to the lever on top of the engine case and the spring did not look right to me. I didn’t know what it was suposed to look like but when pulling the clutch lever, the lever on the engine and the spring didn’t seem to function right.

So, I got on YouTube and tried to find video of the lever on the engine case working and I noticed in one video that the spring was not installed right. I fixed it and it worked so much better. I thought I had solved all my issues.

The next day, I started the bike up. It was in neutral warming up and when it was time to ride away, I flipped up the kick stand, pulled in the clutch and shifted into first gear. The bike lunged forward and died. It was if the clutch was not pulled in. I tried several more times and repeatedly the bike lunged froward and died. After the sixth attempt or so the bike lunged forward but not as hard and it did not die.

I drove it to the dealer’s sister store in my town to have them look at it. They are owned by the same company, but they are a Honda and Kawasaki dealer. They said they would take a look at it the following day because it was not showing the problem after driving it to them.

They did see the problem the next day although not to the extent I was describing. They said they took off the cover and looked at the clutch internals and everything seemed fine. The bike still lunges forward a bit at first, but they said once everything is all warmed up it goes away. That is how they are leaving it at this point.

I get the feeling that driving it around that first day messed up something with the clutch. Does this seem like normal behavior for the TW200? Does the TW200 need the clutch warmed up or else it does not fully disengage when the clutch is pulled in, it lunges forward? Seems unsafe and I feel like something got messed up and they don’t want to deal with it, but I don’t have a reference.

I did find a video on YouTube showing the exact spring issue I was having if anyone is interested. New TW200?!? TW200 Clutch Spring Mistake #shorts

Can anyone with a new TW200 tell me if this behavior is normal? I would like to force them to fix it if it is not normal, but I need to know if that is the case.

 

[jb882]

The spring issue is very well documented on this site, it has happened to lots of folks on new bikes. Its unfortunate that it is still happening in 2023...

The other thing you are experiencing is also somewhat normal on cold starts. Its like the clutch plates stick and they need some time to warm up. Some have solved it by putting the bike in gear and rocking it back and forth before starting. I noticed on mine it was real bad when i first got the bike with 200 miles on it and got a little better over time and a lot better once i switched to synthetic oil. The ultimate cure is Barnett clutch plates.

Congrats on the new bike.

 

[Purple]

This behaviour on a TW (a 30 year old design) is perfectly normal, but may seem exaggerated when the TW is new

It’s caused by the new clutch plates “sticking” together when cold, and can often happen even when the bike has a few thousand miles on it – it is more prevalent on older designs (such as the TW), but it’s easy to get used to

Start the engine, let it warm up a bit in neutral, grab the font brake – and rev the engine briefly before “dumping” it into gear. You won’t hurt anything, and you’ll only need to do it once each ride

There’s a school of thought as to rocking it back and forth, but life is just too short – rev it up, and dump it

Once you get a few thousand on it, you’ll notice an improvement with each oil change, but it’s short lived – it’s a TW – love it or leave it – but you’ll never change its “traits” …..

 

[Black Hills TDub]

First - Welcome to the site. Unfortunate that this is your first post and it is a stinker to have an issue on a brand-new bike - But things do happen, especially this last couple of years in assembly work.
Just one thing I have always done from back in the 70's. Regardless of what bike - Start the bike in neutral, while giving it a couple of minutes to warm up, pulling the clutch lever in & out. That works the plates and lets oil get between the plates.
Do that before dropping it into first and it really helps on any clutch-lurching.

 

[GreasyDave]

The clutch spring is quite common. Easy fix. The lurching forward is also common at first, it goes away eventually. Mine no longer does it at 4000 miles. It will only happen once a day until it stops happening

 

[Loghousenut]

I just purchased a new 2023 TW200 from a dealer. It had under 1 mile on it when I picked it up. I trailered it home which is about an hour from the dealer. When I got home and tried to ride it, I noticed that shifting was a real pain. I had to at times push the clutch forward with my hand. It was also more of an on or off than a gradual transfer of power making the bike lunge forward and at times die. There was also quite a bit of a burning clutch smell going on and quite a bit of clutch slipping while driving without using the clutch. For instance, going down the road in 4th or 5th gear the engine would rev up and felt like I was pulling on the clutch a slight bit slipping it while driving down the road. I didn’t know if it was just new bike smell, but I get the feeling it was the clutch.

After a bit of riding and quite a bit of fiddling, I decided this just couldn’t be right. I had tried to adjust the clutch freeplay but something about the way the clutch lever was just hanging around didn’t seem right. I followed the clutch cable to the lever on top of the engine case and the spring did not look right to me. I didn’t know what it was suposed to look like but when pulling the clutch lever, the lever on the engine and the spring didn’t seem to function right.

So, I got on YouTube and tried to find video of the lever on the engine case working and I noticed in one video that the spring was not installed right. I fixed it and it worked so much better. I thought I had solved all my issues.

The next day, I started the bike up. It was in neutral warming up and when it was time to ride away, I flipped up the kick stand, pulled in the clutch and shifted into first gear. The bike lunged forward and died. It was if the clutch was not pulled in. I tried several more times and repeatedly the bike lunged froward and died. After the sixth attempt or so the bike lunged forward but not as hard and it did not die.

I drove it to the dealer’s sister store in my town to have them look at it. They are owned by the same company, but they are a Honda and Kawasaki dealer. They said they would take a look at it the following day because it was not showing the problem after driving it to them.

They did see the problem the next day although not to the extent I was describing. They said they took off the cover and looked at the clutch internals and everything seemed fine. The bike still lunges forward a bit at first, but they said once everything is all warmed up it goes away. That is how they are leaving it at this point.

I get the feeling that driving it around that first day messed up something with the clutch. Does this seem like normal behavior for the TW200? Does the TW200 need the clutch warmed up or else it does not fully disengage when the clutch is pulled in, it lunges forward? Seems unsafe and I feel like something got messed up and they don’t want to deal with it, but I don’t have a reference.

I did find a video on YouTube showing the exact spring issue I was having if anyone is interested. New TW200?!? TW200 Clutch Spring Mistake #shorts

Can anyone with a new TW200 tell me if this behavior is normal? I would like to force them to fix it if it is not normal, but I need to know if that is the case.

Welcome Home Plops.

You have done the rest of us a true service by reminding us why we buy 2 year old motorcycles. Your experience is duplicated by 80% of those brand new TW purchasers. By mid spring it will be but a faded memory.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

 

[Ken]

Welcome to the forum. Many years ago, I bought my bike with 200 miles on it and I had never had any issues with the clutch. I guess the issue passes quickly.

 

[PlacerLode]

the improperly installed clutch return spring is fairly common but really does not harm anything

the lurch upon cold start the first time you click into gear is also normal but the burning smell is not normal nor is the slipping in high gears

it's a fairly easy and fairly inexpensive job to replace the TW clutch and install better quality pates and springs like Barnett

If somebody rode it before you and really slipped the clutch a lot they might have fried it before you got it I did see a TW with 4 miles have a fried clutch but due to improper slipping of the clutch

The TW is like tractor clutch it's either in or out but no slipping

 

[SpicyPlops]

Wow, thank you all for the quick responses and great advice.

I’ll see how it goes. I’m excited to get this thing on the trails and grateful to be part of the community.

 

[Black Hills TDub]

Just a thought, Not saying it is what you were smelling - but new bikes from Japan do have cosmoline preservation on them for shipping and they can have a smell of burning some of the preservation oils off. My 900GT had a distinct smell the first couple of rides.

 

[Laconeznamy]

This behaviour on a TW (a 30 year old design) is perfectly normal, but may seem exaggerated when the TW is new

It’s caused by the new clutch plates “sticking” together when cold, and can often happen even when the bike has a few thousand miles on it – it is more prevalent on older designs (such as the TW), but it’s easy to get used to

Start the engine, let it warm up a bit in neutral, grab the font brake – and rev the engine briefly before “dumping” it into gear. You won’t hurt anything, and you’ll only need to do it once each ride

There’s a school of thought as to rocking it back and forth, but life is just too short – rev it up, and dump it

Once you get a few thousand on it, you’ll notice an improvement with each oil change, but it’s short lived – it’s a TW – love it or leave it – but you’ll never change its “traits” …..

This explains a lot about why it feels like it stuck in place overnight. However, in my case I don't even have to rock it back and forth - I just wheel it out of my garage. Seems even easier than the clutch dump.

 

[YZ250 too]

My 23 has 252 miles. I really take care of my bikes, so before I start it cold, I shift into 2nd, pull in the clutch, and rock the bike forward and back to break the clutch free. Then I start it. Mine had the same clutch sticking problem, still does, and the helpful folks here on the forum assure me it will disappear in a thousand or so miles. No prob when it's hot. You'll love your TW.

 

[SpeedyTide]

Re the clutch spring....

It's 2021: do you know if your clutch return spring...

I've read on here of people finding that the return spring for their clutch isn't attached right. I bought a brand new 2021 last fall, and haven't noticed any functional problems, so I figured mine was fine. I could never remember to check it until today. Hook not engaged on lever! It appears...

www.tw200forum.com

 

[Laconeznamy]

I just purchased a new 2023 TW200 from a dealer. It had under 1 mile on it when I picked it up. I trailered it home which is about an hour from the dealer. When I got home and tried to ride it, I noticed that shifting was a real pain. I had to at times push the clutch forward with my hand. It was also more of an on or off than a gradual transfer of power making the bike lunge forward and at times die. There was also quite a bit of a burning clutch smell going on and quite a bit of clutch slipping while driving without using the clutch. For instance, going down the road in 4th or 5th gear the engine would rev up and felt like I was pulling on the clutch a slight bit slipping it while driving down the road. I didn’t know if it was just new bike smell, but I get the feeling it was the clutch.

After a bit of riding and quite a bit of fiddling, I decided this just couldn’t be right. I had tried to adjust the clutch freeplay but something about the way the clutch lever was just hanging around didn’t seem right. I followed the clutch cable to the lever on top of the engine case and the spring did not look right to me. I didn’t know what it was suposed to look like but when pulling the clutch lever, the lever on the engine and the spring didn’t seem to function right.

So, I got on YouTube and tried to find video of the lever on the engine case working and I noticed in one video that the spring was not installed right. I fixed it and it worked so much better. I thought I had solved all my issues.

The next day, I started the bike up. It was in neutral warming up and when it was time to ride away, I flipped up the kick stand, pulled in the clutch and shifted into first gear. The bike lunged forward and died. It was if the clutch was not pulled in. I tried several more times and repeatedly the bike lunged froward and died. After the sixth attempt or so the bike lunged forward but not as hard and it did not die.

I drove it to the dealer’s sister store in my town to have them look at it. They are owned by the same company, but they are a Honda and Kawasaki dealer. They said they would take a look at it the following day because it was not showing the problem after driving it to them.

They did see the problem the next day although not to the extent I was describing. They said they took off the cover and looked at the clutch internals and everything seemed fine. The bike still lunges forward a bit at first, but they said once everything is all warmed up it goes away. That is how they are leaving it at this point.

I get the feeling that driving it around that first day messed up something with the clutch. Does this seem like normal behavior for the TW200? Does the TW200 need the clutch warmed up or else it does not fully disengage when the clutch is pulled in, it lunges forward? Seems unsafe and I feel like something got messed up and they don’t want to deal with it, but I don’t have a reference.

I did find a video on YouTube showing the exact spring issue I was having if anyone is interested. New TW200?!? TW200 Clutch Spring Mistake #shorts

Can anyone with a new TW200 tell me if this behavior is normal? I would like to force them to fix it if it is not normal, but I need to know if that is the case.

Spicy, if it wasn't a "sort of temporarily stuck" thing like others are describing, I imagine you're having the issue I had when I replaced the clutch disks. This issue can't be "seen", it has to be felt.

Centered in your clutch basket is a push rod (blue) that gets held in position by a locknut (red). While tightening this, the manual instructs you to align the clutch push lever (that the spring being mentioned pulls on) with an embossed mark on the crankcase.

This diagram kinda sucks so I went and took a picture of mine. I'm indicating a simple diagnostic you can do to determine if the push rod is set in the wrong position (step 11 explained above).

I'm pushing pretty hard on this lever towards the front of the bike (to the left). The lever's axis (red) is centered on the boss (blue). If you can get this lever to move much further leftward without resistance, your push rod is incorrectly set and they need to actually follow the service manual instructions to fix it. I know this because I made this mistake when installing mine a few weeks ago.

 

[yechave13]

I called both the dealer that sold the 2021 TW and took it to my local Yamaha dealer twice with that complaint, since new.

It was the clutch cable return spring out of position! I had used it like that for 3k miles before I actually looked and finally put it in place myself. They gave me all kinds of BS reasons why it didn't operate correctly. It now has 8k and haven't had an issue since.

 

[808 Putt-Putt]

I just purchased a new 2023 TW200 from a dealer. It had under 1 mile on it when I picked it up. I trailered it home which is about an hour from the dealer. When I got home and tried to ride it, I noticed that shifting was a real pain. I had to at times push the clutch forward with my hand. It was also more of an on or off than a gradual transfer of power making the bike lunge forward and at times die. There was also quite a bit of a burning clutch smell going on and quite a bit of clutch slipping while driving without using the clutch. For instance, going down the road in 4th or 5th gear the engine would rev up and felt like I was pulling on the clutch a slight bit slipping it while driving down the road. I didn’t know if it was just new bike smell, but I get the feeling it was the clutch.

After a bit of riding and quite a bit of fiddling, I decided this just couldn’t be right. I had tried to adjust the clutch freeplay but something about the way the clutch lever was just hanging around didn’t seem right. I followed the clutch cable to the lever on top of the engine case and the spring did not look right to me. I didn’t know what it was suposed to look like but when pulling the clutch lever, the lever on the engine and the spring didn’t seem to function right.

So, I got on YouTube and tried to find video of the lever on the engine case working and I noticed in one video that the spring was not installed right. I fixed it and it worked so much better. I thought I had solved all my issues.

The next day, I started the bike up. It was in neutral warming up and when it was time to ride away, I flipped up the kick stand, pulled in the clutch and shifted into first gear. The bike lunged forward and died. It was if the clutch was not pulled in. I tried several more times and repeatedly the bike lunged froward and died. After the sixth attempt or so the bike lunged forward but not as hard and it did not die.

I drove it to the dealer’s sister store in my town to have them look at it. They are owned by the same company, but they are a Honda and Kawasaki dealer. They said they would take a look at it the following day because it was not showing the problem after driving it to them.

They did see the problem the next day although not to the extent I was describing. They said they took off the cover and looked at the clutch internals and everything seemed fine. The bike still lunges forward a bit at first, but they said once everything is all warmed up it goes away. That is how they are leaving it at this point.

I get the feeling that driving it around that first day messed up something with the clutch. Does this seem like normal behavior for the TW200? Does the TW200 need the clutch warmed up or else it does not fully disengage when the clutch is pulled in, it lunges forward? Seems unsafe and I feel like something got messed up and they don’t want to deal with it, but I don’t have a reference.

I did find a video on YouTube showing the exact spring issue I was having if anyone is interested. New TW200?!? TW200 Clutch Spring Mistake #shorts

Can anyone with a new TW200 tell me if this behavior is normal? I would like to force them to fix it if it is not normal, but I need to know if that is the case.

hi there! i also bought a brand new tw (its my first motorcycle) and yes, when new the clutch is more of an on/off switch. I PROMISE YOU it gets better. for some reason, it got very good indeed right after the first oil change. i dont know why, but im glad it did. mine also had the spring issue, it seems they all do.

 

[Aramis76]

My 2 cents.
in 2007 i bought a brand new Yamaha FZ1, and the clutch was sticky as hell.
I would pull the clutch and count to 3 before the clutch would release...
Some said it would get better with time, but what made it get better was the first oil change.
Instantly after the initial oil change, the clutch behaved normally.
It seems that the oil Yamaha put in there for the break-in period was a bit different and was making the clutch plates stick like crazy.
So i'd be willing to bet this is the same with the TW.

 

[K5hda]

Give it some time mine has about 800 miles on it and i can use the friction zone beleive it or not as on and off as the clutch is while doing uturns etc. it will still lurch and die when i put it in gear when cold but the drivability will improve its my 3rd one over the years and they are all the same lol