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Discussion Starter #1
I thought they'd be too tall but for 20 bucks i took a chance. Found the bars at cyclegear locally.

Had to re rout the throttle cables and was scratching my head on why the throttle was sticking. Loosened up the cables, moved it in just a bit and she works. As you can see theres a big difference from the stock bars. I can stand up and not be hunched over. They feel great and cant wait to try them off road. Even got some cushy new grips too! Me happy

































 

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Those grips do look comfy! So now you're running higher bars and risers? I just ordered some pro-taper atv high bars and put my old risers on the girlfriends ttr. They should be here tomorrow so i'll let you know the difference and take a pic or two.



What is the deal with the holes near the throttle body? Are they pretty easy to drill?



Also, the weeping from the brake reservoir seems to be a problem for many. I am going to see if the dealer will fix it while still under factory warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Those grips do look comfy! So now you're running higher bars and risers? I just ordered some pro-taper atv high bars and put my old risers on the girlfriends ttr. They should be here tomorrow so i'll let you know the difference and take a pic or two.



What is the deal with the holes near the throttle body? Are they pretty easy to drill?


Yup. Try em with the risers and see...i had to pull my brake line up a little bit too..clutch was perfect.



What holes???
 

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The stockers have two holes in them on the right side under the throttle housing. I've heard of some drilling holes in the new bars and some say they filed the "nubs" off of the housing itself so there is no need for the holes. What did you do? I havent taken mine off yet but will be doing it tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I noticed the holes but i have no idea what they would be for...My new bars had no holes or nubs either
 

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Hmm... maybe thats something for older models? Idk. I'm sure someone else will let us know
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bars came off an 08..and i dont remember seeing any holes on other bars listed on ebay. Maybe thats why my bike was faster.
 

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[quote name='xdac' date='15 January 2012 - 06:27 PM' timestamp='1326680871' post='34590']

I noticed the holes but i have no idea what they would be for...My new bars had no holes or nubs either

[/quote







Stop with the mods






Looks good
 

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Those grips do look comfy! So now you're running higher bars and risers? I just ordered some pro-taper atv high bars and put my old risers on the girlfriends ttr. They should be here tomorrow so i'll let you know the difference and take a pic or two.



What is the deal with the holes near the throttle body? Are they pretty easy to drill?



Also, the weeping from the brake reservoir seems to be a problem for many. I am going to see if the dealer will fix it while still under factory warranty.


be careful with the pro taper bars, they are a softer metal than they claim. after bending three pairs in a lifetime of riding i thought i would test the hardness of the metal. i used an instrom hardness tester on the vickers scale and those bars are about 2/3 the hardness they should have been, makes me wonder if pro taper really makes them or if they just buy them and put there name on them. imho
 

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be careful with the pro taper bars, they are a softer metal than they claim.


You made me wonder, "Would I rather have my handlebars bend in a fall or transmit the energy to the frame and forks?" Bars are cheap. What do you think?
 

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You made me wonder, "Would I rather have my handlebars bend in a fall or transmit the energy to the frame and forks?" Bars are cheap. What do you think?


ive been working in the metal fastner industry for a while so i know a little bit about hardness of different metals. if your bars bend, weather from a fall or just plain smacking into a tree, the frame and forks are gonna feel it no matter what. there are many other factors that could damage the bike. ive never had the bars bend more than a half inch but thats still enough to feel something aint right. your question is kind hard to answer because i think its a matter of your own opinion. but i would rather have bars that are tough, if your riding way out in the woods and you wipe out and bend soft bars you could be left pushing your tdub out of the woods.
 

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I just got the same looking bars from FLY



Mine are called VINTAGE so they are chromed or at least shiny Aluminum finish bling!



Also black scott grips



Amazon delivered from Rocky $36 for both
 

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I got the MSR Carbon Steel 7/8" Handlebar in the high mini bend from Rocky Mountain ATV and like them a lot. No problems with the cables but I did have to file off the nub for the throttle housing. No big deal, it's plastic and took about 2 minutes. This bend is much more comfy than stock and doesn't interfere with cable operation. I think I paid $30.
 

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Started putting on my new pro taper atv high bars today. Key word, "started"! I re-routed all the necessary cables and stalled when trying to decide between grinding off the nubs on the kill switch and throttle or drilling the holes in the bars?



Also, strangely enough, I ordered some pro grips but they seem a little long. I always cut the ends off to install my handguards but it looks like i need to cut close to an inch off to stay on the throttle sleeve. Just thought that was strange...
 

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If you drill you will be stuck with that spot then, grinding will let you rotate as desired to find the optimal positioning. More options are better! I've done this on many bikes and have only had problems with the controls slipping in a crash, which probably saved them from getting broken anyway. Just my opinion, best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I still dont know what needs to be ground off..im having problems with my throttle sticking and cables not returning so ill have to take everything apart again. I even tried it without the risers and it sticks open so its definatly in the cable somewhere.
 

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Hilltown- So do they tighten up enough to be ok without the nubs? I figure, I could probably put a thin piece of rubber under them to keep them from slipping but if it's not necessary I probably will just grind the nubs off, tighten them down and ride. And what year is your bike?



Xdac- Like I was saying before, those pro grips are longer than most. When you cut yours, it looks like you just put a hole in the end of the grips. Does your throttle tube go all the way to the end of the grips? If so, that may be the reason for the sticking. Mine is sticking but is probably because I have not drilled the bars or filed the nub off so it doesnt sit flat on the bar as of now. It looks like I would have to cut the grip off at the last wire-tie groove to make it flush with the end of the sleeve.







I ended up getting a piece of my friend's (surveywaters) old throttle tube to extend it enabling me to not cut the grip shorter. Just have to add the other handguard and figure out where to put my windshield mounts. The crossbar is a bit more of an obstacle on the new bars. I also ground the nubs off and that fixed the sticking throttle.



*edit
 

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File the nibs off, or your switchgear will crack when you tighten it down.



Don't axe me how I know this.



Unless of course you tighten things down like a prissy little schoolgirl. Which, you might....



Quick and dirty, no-fail way to cut the handguard end plug holes in the ends of the grips, for most grips other than yours:



Slide the left grip fully on. Tap the end of the grip lightly against the end of the bar with a plastic mallet. Let the end of the bar cut a perfect disc of rubber out of the end of the grip.



Do the same thing on the right side, but slip the grip over a piece of 3/4" steel plumbing pipe, do the mallet thing, then install on the throttle tube.



(Pssst..YOUR grips give you a nice little cut line at standard throttle tube length, for handguards.. Just sayin'. Actually there are three cut lines and several ways to use them depending on your situation. They're MEANT to be cut.)



1. Big hands, no handguards or bar end weights- Cut the donut off the big end.



2. Big hands, handguards or bar ends- Cut the big donut and the last groove at the very, very end of the small end.



3. Small hands, no guards or bar ends- Same as big hands. Sorry.



4. Small hands, guards or bar ends- Cut at the last wire tie groove



5. Throttle lock- Cut the big donut and the last wire tie groove



If you want to retain all 3 wire tie grooves just set up for big hands.



If you want to keep a wide grip, set up for small hands. 1/2" wider, a little more steering leverage in the rough stuff. And yes, you'll notice it.



If you like a narrower grip point, set up for big hands.



Whichever you do, do the same on the non-throttle side, or you'll ride even funkier than you already do.



6. Don't hate me cuz I'm pritty...



Short of pure foam grips, those are my faves. They're also one of the few grips which will slide fairly easily over grid- type grip heaters.
 
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