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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Which chain I should buy fro my beloved TW?
I read online about O ring, X ring and no Ring
Some say that O and X rings make your bike exspecially if not so powerful, lose some power due to increased friction via the rings
I would like to purchase a DID chain, which exact model I should buy?
 

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Really up to you which is better because there will be a million opinions out there.
If you are running the stocker it's is a "no ring" DID. The cheapest one Yamaha could buy.

I went with the DID 428VX:
IMG_5059.JPG


No matter which/what you choose if you have actually worn you chain done to nothingness you might want to do a close inspection of your sprockets (both) as well.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Really up to you which is better because there will be a million opinions out there.
If you are running the stocker it's is a "no ring" DID. The cheapest one Yamaha could buy.

I went with the DID 428VX:
View attachment 145946


No matter which/what you choose if you have actually worn you chain done to nothingness you might want to do a close inspection of your sprockets (both) as well.
This 428VX is an X-Ring right?

Comparing the X-Ring and the no ring at all chain, how is different the lubrication?
 

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Hey guys,

Which chain I should buy fro my beloved TW?
I read online about O ring, X ring and no Ring
Some say that O and X rings make your bike exspecially if not so powerful, lose some power due to increased friction via the rings
I would like to purchase a DID chain, which exact model I should buy?

Jannaruto,

Side question: the member map shows you in Singapore. Do you ride off road, and if so, where do you find areas in an urbanized city-state?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I put an o ring on my TW and could not detect any power loss.
No I am not saying that is mandatory but reading here and there and knowing how friction works is easy to assume that, if you put an oring somewhere there should be an increase in friction somewhere, that's why I am asking since, I don't know if you know my other threads, I really care about my bike top speed since I even reached 130kmh constantly across multiple runs, being the engine very very low powered anything could make it loss that small amount of power it has, like I changed my exhaust, bang lost 15-20kmh, the chain of course will not have that effect but I don't want to create another point of "loss"

P.S. the exhaust will be modified in the future to re-gain that powerloss in top end
 

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Really up to you which is better because there will be a million opinions out there.
If you are running the stocker it's is a "no ring" DID. The cheapest one Yamaha could buy.

I went with the DID 428VX:
View attachment 145946


No matter which/what you choose if you have actually worn you chain done to nothingness you might want to do a close inspection of your sprockets (both) as well.
This is the chain I have also.
 

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The o ring chains come preluded inside the links so you don’t technically have to lube them. I have a cheaper o ring and it seemed to have a lot of stiffness ie friction. The VX and the Jt x ring seem to be better. Because they are lubed inside they don’t wear as fast and last a LOT longer.. I lightly spray mine with WD 40 and immediately wipe it off. Then I spay the chain with Dow wax based chain lube after it has dried.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Problem is to find this damned 428VX
Only one I find is the regular 428H which I guess is the NON ring version but I guess that can be cleaned with the fuel I use in the tank of the tw right? Having no seals at all or any rubber parts at all that chain could be cleaned completely submerged in fuel right? I heared some horrible story of high quality chain cleaned a bit too much in fuel and the rings started to loose their sealing and the chain litterally become a piece of stiff metal since the various links could not move freely against eachother anymore

(I am sorry if I specify tank of the bike but I don't know the difference in your english nomencalture for fuels, we have Benzina which is the one we use in our TW, then we have Diesel, which we use in Diesel cars, so I assume Petroil is my Benzina which goes in the TW and Diesel is, well, for Diesel, right?)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
A reason for lubing the RING chains would be to keep the rings themselves from deteriorating to where they don't hold in the lube. With whatever you feel protects the "rubber" best I guess.
This of course, the O and X ring should be always lubed to decrease friction between sprockets and chain themselves, of course of course
I was just asking if maybe a plain chain without any ring like the 428HD could be cleaned with just plain fuel (the one we use in TW) since it should have no rubber parts, right? or am I missing something?
 

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If you are running the stocker (chain) it's is a "no ring" DID. The cheapest one Yamaha could buy.
Stagewex,
New kid on the block here. Are you saying even the latest model 2o18 TW is fitted with a non O-ring chain by the factory? Sheesh, I thought OEMs switched to lower maintenance O-ring and X-ring chains long ago.

John_Quinn_
 

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When I bought my first TW I installed new sprockets and a new non-o-ring RK428 MXZ chain. Every 300 to 400 miles and after every dirt ride I clean the chain with kerosene and lube (soak) it with 140wt gear oil. I also clean the sprockets. (If I go dirt riding 2 or 3 days in a row I clean the chain when I get home.) The chain has lasted over 30,000 miles and is still being used. The teeth on the front sprocket look thin but aren't bent over and the rear sprocket looks in very good shape. Even with an o-ring chain the exterior and sprockets have to be cleaned all the time for a very long life.

It is a lot of messy work but if you are willing to do it a non-o-ring chain can last a very long time.

Dirty sprocket and chain:
P2271271 (3).JPG

Clean sprocket and chain:
P2271271 (4).JPG P3041272.JPG
 

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When I bought my first TW I installed new sprockets and a new non-o-ring RK428 MXZ chain. Every 300 to 400 miles and after every dirt ride I clean the chain with kerosene and lube (soak) it with 140wt gear oil. I also clean the sprockets. (If I go dirt riding 2 or 3 days in a row I clean the chain when I get home.) The chain has lasted over 30,000 miles and is still being used. The teeth on the front sprocket look thin but aren't bent over and the rear sprocket looks in very good shape. Even with an o-ring chain the exterior and sprockets have to be cleaned all the time for a very long life.

It is a lot of messy work but if you are willing to do it a non-o-ring chain can last a very long time.
Elime,
Do you completely remove the chain from the bike to do the thorough clean and lube you describe? If yes, am I correct to assume that you use a non-riveted, clip-type master link? An enquiring mind would like to know. Thx.

John_Quinn_
 

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When I bought my first TW I installed new sprockets and a new non-o-ring RK428 MXZ chain. Every 300 to 400 miles and after every dirt ride I clean the chain with kerosene and lube (soak) it with 140wt gear oil. I also clean the sprockets. (If I go dirt riding 2 or 3 days in a row I clean the chain when I get home.) The chain has lasted over 30,000 miles and is still being used. The teeth on the front sprocket look thin but aren't bent over and the rear sprocket looks in very good shape. Even with an o-ring chain the exterior and sprockets have to be cleaned all the time for a very long life.

It is a lot of messy work but if you are willing to do it a non-o-ring chain can last a very long time.

Dirty sprocket and chain:
View attachment 145986

Clean sprocket and chain:
View attachment 145994 View attachment 146002


:D
 
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