[chevyy1212]

Ok sooooo pretty much will I need to rejet my carb or do anything to it for that matter if I just end up cutting the stock pipe down and putting this on. Its a simple clean way to get the exhaust where I want it. Im still not to sure what rejeting does or what jets are good for these bikes anyway but thats another day.



So long question short I will I need to touch the carb after putting this on to keep it running right.



Supertrapp 3 in. pipe (1 1/4 inlet) and core ~ 3171250



https://www.denniskirk.com/supertra...al-four-stroke-muffler.p442641.prd/442641.sku

 

[lizrdbrth]

Yes and no. The Supertrapp is tunable. If you're too lean you can eliminate plates until it matches your existing carburetion, provided it does not flow more than that with the fewest plates possible.



I recomend you approach it from the opposite direction, starting with the fewest plates, taking plug readings and adding plates only if it's too rich.



And use LOTS of loctite on the threads of the stacking bolts, or lightly crush the bolt threads where they enter the core to keep them from backing out. Supertrapps are notorious for self-destructing and scattering the plates behind you, and once the housing becomes dented you'll likely have to destroy the body of the muffler to remove the guts for repacking. Don't overcrush the headpipe connection, or it will make future removal od the core difficult, as well.



The denting issue is lessened by your choice of the megaphone version. I have a drawer full of useless guts from the straightwalled, aluminum ISD2 versions. Once they get dented, they're toast.

 

[phazer]

i see some things that you might want to look at. looking at the pic i can see that if you slide the inlet over the mid pipe it might not seal. make sure you have a good graphite ring in the exhaust. it will go in where those little slots are. just like on the stock. try www.bikebandit.com and i think you can buy a stock graphite ring for about 6bucks, its worth having a new one.. " i think there graphite" the other thing is that you MIGHT have an issue with mounting the exhaust. i cant find the length of this exhaust either, make sure its long enough so your leg dont touch it. it might get hot. also, read the review that is posted on denniskirk.com about this exhaust.

 

[chevyy1212]

Yes and no. The Supertrapp is tunable. If you're too lean you can eliminate plates until it matches your existing carburetion, provided it does not flow more than that with the fewest plates possible.



I recomend you approach it from the opposite direction, starting with the fewest plates, taking plug readings and adding plates only if it's too rich.



And use LOTS of loctite on the threads of the stacking bolts, or lightly crush the bolt threads where they enter the core to keep them from backing out. Supertrapps are notorious for self-destructing and scattering the plates behind you, and once the housing becomes dented you'll likely have to destroy the body of the muffler to remove the guts for repacking. Don't overcrush the headpipe connection, or it will make future removal od the core difficult, as well.



The denting issue is lessened by your choice of the megaphone version. I have a drawer full of useless guts from the straightwalled, aluminum ISD2 versions. Once they get dented, they're toast.

Well I understand the idea of what your saying along with taking plug readings. I am very new to some things here and not to sure what plates are. Is this somthing in the "muffler" that can be added or taken away to reduce how much exhaust flows out or in.

 

[lizrdbrth]

The items on the rear of the muffler are a stack of individual waffled plates. They become the exit of the muffler, and the exhaust gases are diffused between the waffles. Plates are added or subtracted to result in a given level of restriction, or backpressure. Adding plates=less restriction, subtracting plates= more restriction.



The exhaust radiates to the side in all directions rather than directly out the rear, so you gotta keep it away from your tires, plastics, flesh and boxers..

 

[chevyy1212]

The items on the rear of the muffler are a stack of individual waffled plates. They become the exit of the muffler, and the exhaust gases are diffused between the waffles. Plates are added or subtracted to result in a given level of restriction, or backpressure. Adding plates=less restriction, subtracting plates= more restriction.



The exhaust radiates to the side in all directions rather than directly out the rear, so you gotta keep it away from your tires, plastics, flesh and boxers..

Yea I looked at the picture for a few and saw the plates. I dont think Im a fan of the exhaust gases radiating to all sides..... Im trying to do a hollow look but want to either shorten up the exhaust and 3 options. 1 Keep stock exhaust just shorten up the pipe. 2 use this and do as as #1 or 3 find a supertrapp muffler that would work and have the cafe shop fab up a "JApanese" style exhaust. Will most Supertrapp exhausts work on a TW?

 

[chevyy1212]

Could I get away with just a straight pipe. I was reading up and a SR185 header will bolt right up. Im on a budget and have a certain "look" in mind Thanks alot for all the great help

 

[lizrdbrth]

You don't want a straight pipe, for a host of reasons. The one that matters most for our purposes here is that it will cost you a motor. I doubt that is one of your goals.



You're gunna need to educate yourself on a few engine principles before you attempt your own system. Barring that you may want to consider letting your "cafe shop" take care of it and assume the liability if they get it wrong.

 

[phazer]

after looking at my tdub i dont think this exhaust would be good for a tw. if you stay with the stock mid pipe you might run into issues with good clearance between the rear shock and the frame. another area id be concerned about is weather or not the exhaust will rub on the rear tire. i THINK the stock mid pipe is too short. if the exhaust comes loose and gets caught in the rear wheel, it could lock up the rear tire and then you might fall to the ground. as far as the plates go dennis kirk does not supply them with the exhaust according to the reviews on denniskirk.com and other websites. check out the DG series slip on exhaust. thats what i run and i love it!!!

 

[chevyy1212]

You don't want a straight pipe, for a host of reasons. The one that matters most for our purposes here is that it will cost you a motor. I doubt that is one of your goals.



You're gunna need to educate yourself on a few engine principles before you attempt your own system. Barring that you may want to consider letting your "cafe shop" take care of it and assume the liability if they get it wrong.

Oh I plan on having them do 98% of anything non cosmetic. Im a car guy bikes are completly new to me so I dont want to take any chances I will be learning these bikes along the way slowly through this forum and all of your guys help which thank you very much for. I am just looking to go into the Shop with good options. As for the straight pipe I was just figuring this was a good time to knock that question out of the way didnt think it was a good idea at all with no real backpressure then. I would have it mounted to the frame so it falling off wouldnt be a huge concern but thank you because I will have to make sure that does not happen. I saw this bike that had this particular supertrapp on there so it made me ask some questions. Any other ideas would be great.







Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

[qwerty]

A straight pipe won't damage your engine IF the carb is properly jetted. Expect to lose all power below 5000 rpm or so.



Back pressure is evil. It's only purpose is to reduce blow-through during overlap with long duration cams, effectively shortening the cam timing without actually shortening the cam timing. If some means of releaving the backpressure at increased rpm is not incorporated, peak power will suffer. Even something as simple as a butterfly valve can make a huge difference in driveability with a long-duration cam. Something as simple as a selenoid can open the buterfly valve when backpressure is not needed to allow the engine to enjoy maximum flow.



Note that Yamaha engineers put significant work into using sound and pressure reversions to work to widen the TW's powerband, and some cost of peak horsepower. That is why TWs are as torquey as they are for a 9,500rpm engine. Though aftermarket exhausts might, in some cases, actually add a fraction of a peak horsepower, or maybe a lb/ft or two of torque, virtually none can match the stock exhaust for its broad torque curve at the same peak horsepower on a stock or lightly modified engine. If I'm wrong, post actual dyno results and prove it. Be aware that if you ride offroad where approved spark arrestors are required, an aftermarket exhaust can be cause to have your bike confiscated.



However, there are many valid reasons for aftermarket exhausts. Looks, sound, weight savings, and torque curve manipulation, especially with highly modified engines, are all good reasons to go aftermarket.

 

[sorethumb]

When you modify one 'thang' it usually affects some other 'thang'. Some effects can be predictable, some not.



There is not really a definitive way to say do A, then adjust B, and then you are all set. At most you could get an "I did A, I adjusted B, and my bike runs/performs for me, per my riding conditions, etc."



You will just have to figure out what works best for you. Please keep us posted on what you do and provide lots of pictures. I enjoy seeing this stuff.

 

[chevyy1212]

So heres my main question before all my bable... When you throw on POD filters and mess with the exhaust with the exhaust should I count on going up a main jet size? Do these 2 mods make the bike run even more lean than stock?

I think the "old forum" had a better search function too sorry for all the repeat questions



I voted against the straight pipe for this year. I am going to go for the supertrapp in the picture not sure if I will route it this way or not but I heard it and its the sound Im looking for. I want the hollow look but need it still so I can have the wife on some rides with me without having her leg roasted and if I take off all the plastic and shes on there I see it hurting a little plus wont look right. The pod filters & headlight first, then taillight and exhaust then random lil touches Im thinking about. Im not really looking to change the power curve I actually love how these perform just a fun bike.



I did alot of reading last night figured out a good start on the plates for the supertrapp. I wont be doing my carb work this year since I want to ride not tinker for my first year. If this was your bike (I do understand all bikes are different) What main jet would you run. Im looking to atleast walk into the shop with some knowledge on these bikes so I dont look to dumb.





Oh and heres a question you may know. I get how this headlight would mount if I drill holes but is there somthing that this picture is not showing to mount this. Im leaning towards mounting "ears" anyway but still dont see how this would mount up with no bottom bracket.

http://www.flyncycle.com/Motorcycle_Headlight_p/hlubb412e.htm



I will most deffinetly post up worthy pictures along the way as those threads seem to help the most for me atleast and I want to help the next New guy on the forum.

 

[lizrdbrth]

That's a spotlight, not a headlight. It only has one filament rather than a hi-low beam. Keep searching, you'll find basically the same item with both beams. The example shown is a bottom mount, but they come in side mount as well.



Most bottom mounts are universal, just a chrome piece which spans across the triple tree uses the lower triple clamp bolts. Most are not wide enough for the TW front end.



A main jet change alone won't get you where you wanna go if you run a straight pipe and open air element . I know because I've tried, so anyone who says you can jet for it is mistaken. You're on the right track with the Supertrapp, but you're still in for a jetting adventure once you ditch the airbox. The plates will make this somewhat less an adventure, but expect a bit of trial-and-error

 

[chevyy1212]

That's a spotlight, not a headlight. It only has one filament rather than a hi-low beam. Keep searching, you'll find basically the same item with both beams. The example shown is a bottom mount, but they come in side mount as well.



Most bottom mounts are universal, just a chrome piece which spans across the triple tree uses the lower triple clamp bolts. Most are not wide enough for the TW front end.



A main jet change alone won't get you where you wanna go if you run a straight pipe and open air element . I know because I've tried, so anyone who says you can jet for it is mistaken. You're on the right track with the Supertrapp, but you're still in for a jetting adventure once you ditch the airbox. The plates will make this somewhat less an adventure, but expect a bit of trial-and-error

Wow thanks for all that info. Answered alot of my questions. I was thinking side mount for ease of install and it just seem to have more options. I was just using that picture as an example. Im going to want a high and low beam 35watt I would imagine the high would be the same, from what Ive read anymore will drain the battery FAST.



Im going to go with the SuperTrapp for sure then to keep the carb tuning to a minimum as I know the plates will help me find the correct backpressure. The airbox is deffinetly going to be ditched Id say after the exhaust tho. IF you were me for this setup where would you start on the tuning end its a 08. I probably wont be doing this tunign myself but would still like your input.



Oh and do Yamaha dealerships actually do a good job rejetting and or tuning carbs or would that be a waste.

 

[xdac]

Anybody ever think of putting this on a tw? Besides a lot of custom work..what could it hurt?

 

[chevyy1212]

I don't know how much more than a custom y pipe and a whole bunch of bending. I'm way new at bikes tho so theres probably more



Anyone everseen a tw with the plastics that cover the air filter still on but the rear section gone. So the plastics that cover the exhaust gone but the rest still there