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Discussion Starter #1
:D

Hi,

I'm Steve, hailing from London Uk, just picked up a sickly TW125 to breathe back some life into it, and get back on two wheels after years away from bikes.
The bike is generally ok, looks like it's covered around 16k kilometres, has some surface rust on frame, but doesn't currently fire up.

Yesterday I started to pull it apart, to look at the electrical side of things. (Battery given a good long charge on my ctek, and holding a good charge a week later).i may change battery later, but was hoping to see some life in lights or panel/horn first.

Found some horrible, poorly executed bullet connectors, (for r/h switches).
Side stand switch has been cut, and wires twisted together.... (What should that switch be when stand down - open circuit? - closed to run?)

When battery connected, there are no lights, no horn, so I'm going to have to go through it all.........are there any fuses apart from the two on the solenoid in r/h side?

If anyone has any links to wiring diagrams, location charts, or "how to test component" info that would be great.

FYI - no Kickstarter on uk models, so I need to get it 'on the button' :D

Think I'll try get it running before I worry about making it pretty, .....though I've dismantled all panels and already cleaned and hammerite painted the rear subframe.

Thanks in advance
 

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Welcome. It sounds like you have a rat's nest of wires. I believe if you go to technical help on the forum there are manual downloads and maybe even a wiring diagram. It would probably be easier to do a search on Google or your search engine for (TW200 wiring diagram or schematics) which usually will pull it up on the forum. We do not have the TW 125 here in the states. You will enjoy the bike once you have it going.
 

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I'm pretty sure the kickstand circuit is open until the switch is closed when the stand is up and making contact with the plunger. It's not a closed to ground switch.

There is only the fuse on the right side that I know of.

I'd check the main switch, key, and the run switch for power and continuity if you know the fuse and battery are good.
 

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Side stand is closed to run

Sounds like you鈥檝e got a hand full of problems to deal with 鈥 but not running (at this stage) is most likely electrical

Short out the kill switch, the clutch cut-out, and make sure the ignition barrel is playing ball. After that, we can go for the more complicated issues such as your off-side hoople grommet being lunched.

Good luck 鈥 and keep us updated 鈥 we鈥檙e here to help 鈥..

Welcome to the asylum 鈥..
 

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on the start relay only 1 fuse works, the other is a spare, you can see only 1 set of female connections if you look closely

the kickstand wires twisted are ok like that..at least to test it to get it running.

i have just found out after 3 hours of testing and 1 hour of swearing that 1 thing you should try first is the ground/earth, check the frame and other connections are tight.

depending how the headlight it might only come on after the engine is started,

its better to have some testers around, the brown is the live, so if the battery has charge turn the ignition and see if there is any reading on any brown wire..

if not you can bypass the key switch by bridging the brown+red together and try again.

on most TS'a if worked on the rear light comes on with the ignition so you could use that as a simple indicater of power in the loom

i forgot the colours on the ignition but 1 wire switches the loom on and off.

a few things there to try and tick off
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Still not running, but at least I can now make it blow the fuse :)

Stripped and cleaned r/h handlebar switches, the main ignition switch also stripped and cleaned, but still shows 'variable' resistance, so I've bought a new one (not fitted yet).

Starter solenoid operates ok.

The fun continues.........
 

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Still not running, but at least I can now make it blow the fuse :)

Stripped and cleaned r/h handlebar switches, the main ignition switch also stripped and cleaned, but still shows 'variable' resistance, so I've bought a new one (not fitted yet).

Starter solenoid operates ok.

The fun continues.........
It seems your cut-off relay faulty . Replace with a new one or bypass the relay (Black Relay)
 
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