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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,



I just got a 2010 T-dub yesterday, first bike since 1978! I'm going to Death Valley next week, weather permitting. I got a couple questions:



I can't do any break-in here in Idaho (it's still snowing), so having read all the carb threads I'm wondering just how careful I need to be with the stock set-up and break-in running from sea level to say 4000 feet and the really long steep climbs that are routine in DV? I will be on dirt at <40mph most of the time, but sometimes 30 to 40 miles on pavement at 50-55. I DO remember enough not to lug!
I can always put it on the truck and drive to the dirt, but maybe a few loops might involve some pavement.



The dealer said I'd be fine, just don't keep a steady RPM, but I'm a little more cautious since I'll have to pay for the overhaul if I screw up, so any other advice would be appreciated. I could ask the mech here (whom I know) to tune the carb, but I don't know what to ask for. It's not an issue up here where everybody starts out at 5000 and goes up. I took it out for a very limited run including 55 for a couple miles and it was running perfectly at 5800 feet, about what one would expect from the factory lean EPA tune.





Can anyone point me at a thread that has a good item list for backcountry desert riding? You can get really out there in DV and I'll be solo mostly. Been there many times in vehicles and have a very healthy respect for the dangers of getting stranded. Most items are obvious, like water and a good sleeping bag and tire repair stuff, but I'm always open to new ideas. Got the rear Cyclerack, so I can carry pretty much anything, even for a day trip.



I learned more in three days of perusing this forum than going to Yamaha Technician School!




Thanks,



Rocky
 

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Welcome to the TW world..

Just one thought on DV ride >> don't forget the "Extra GAS"....

Safe and happy riding !
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Welcome to the TW world..

Just one thought on DV ride >> don't forget the "Extra GAS"....

Safe and happy riding !


Ha! No lie! I've been there before when I had to drive out to Panamint or Beatty just to get gas, 'cause I couldn't stand to pay $4.95 a gal. at Furnace and Stovepipe was out! I've got a 5 gal. jug for fillup and a 1.5 to take with.
 

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Get as many short trips in as you can before you go. Change the oil before you go.



Open the pilot screw 1 full turn. Put a single washer under the circlip on the needle. Probably won't be perfect, but will be closer than stock tune.



I like breaking in an engine in mountainous terrain. Moderate RPM and high throttle are a good combination when alternated often with low rpm and light throttle. I broke in a XL250 in similar circumstances and it ran flawlessly for 48,000 miles until someone sugared the gas tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Get as many short trips in as you can before you go. Change the oil before you go.



Open the pilot screw 1 full turn. Put a single washer under the circlip on the needle. Probably won't be perfect, but will be closer than stock tune.



I like breaking in an engine in mountainous terrain. Moderate RPM and high throttle are a good combination when alternated often with low rpm and light throttle. I broke in a XL250 in similar circumstances and it ran flawlessly for 48,000 miles until someone sugared the gas tank.


Change the oil at 5 miles on the Odo?
Seems a bit anal....not that I'm not sorta anal




I'll run the carb change by the mech...I'd like to see him work on that part of the carb 1st time anyway, I've heard and seen it's pretty easy to do that while it's still on the bike.



I kinda think from my aircraft break-in experience that what you say about mountain break-in makes sense as long as I can keep it reasonably cool.



Sugared your tank?
What an ***hole



Thanks Querty
 

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Quite a bit of shavings will be in the oil after just 5 or 10 miles. If you don't change it before you go, change it before you hit 20 miles.



If I had a new TW, I'd use a dyno oil specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches, change it at 20, 100, and 600 miles. At 1500 miles I'd switch to a synthetic oil specifically for motorcycles with wet clutches, then continue with the synthetic at 1500 mile intervals offroad, 3000 mile intervals on road.
 

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I'll say most of us here have purchased 'used' TW's so "break-in" was not an issue. Of those who purchased new bikes, I am of the opinion, many have moved on within 2000 miles. In my opinion, for most, 'break-in' will be comfortably taken care of during 'regular' outings. Don't obsess, just don't keep the throttle in one spot 'as your Grand-kids' grow old. As well, frequent oil changes during the first (?) miles allow you to discard the Saki caps that the factory workers may have left in your engine............... Just kidding. Many of you have paid more for your 'flat-screen' TV than your TW. Ride, change oil, and ride.................... Gerry
 

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Mr Gizmo "the Saki caps was funny"..Still laughing..I am going with dyno oil, changed it in at 25 miles as not knowing what Factory oil was in, the filter had metal filings...Did Moto Mans break-in theory, another oil change this Spring....Ride-like you stole her varying RPMs...After a period you have options to acoccording to this one theory.



http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 

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Hey! Another Idaho TWer! Where in Idaho do you hail from? Perhaps we can get together for a ride sometime. I'm in Meridian myself. (Oh... now I see next to you're from Hailey).
 
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