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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a 2017 TW with 500 miles on it. The previous owner had just changed the oil (and I believe he did). I then road the bike in half hour increments and put on another 250 miles. The bike seemed to run great no smoke ... no problems at all. Yesterday while trying to learn how to wheelie the bike I felt it loosing power, so I checked the oil level and saw no oil in the window.:eek: . I then proceeded to add 3/4 of a quart of oil. My question is, does the TW burn oil on a regular basis or is something wrong with this bike? After adding the oil, it started up and sounded good, but I did not ride it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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To me the probability of the previous owner adding incorrect volume of oil seems greater than the probability that a 2017 with 500 miles can make 3/4 of a liter of oil disappear without obvious signs of burning or leakage.
I believe mysterious & serious oil consumption is a rarity, even on a 500 mile bike.
If you did not personally note a correct oil level prior to your rides you unfortunately do not have a valid initial data point to draw any conclusions from yet.
I would recommend collecting some fresh data; note current oil level and the method/ angle/location that you used to measure. Then ride a lot more and periodically note any changes in oil lever using same method, angle of the bike, and location where it is parked and measured. It does make a difference with these tiny sump engines.
I believe the results might just indicate an inadequate initial oil level at time of purchase.
 

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My suggestion is dump the oil, check the filter, then check the filter again and make sure it is OEM with 4 holes and facing the right direction. Clean filter, fill with oil and use the oil seepage screw to verify oil is properly flowing to the head. And while you're at it, make sure that screw is not missing.

TL;DR Change the oil again from scratch using documented procedures and careful inspection of oil filter used and installation. Use this thread for reference if needed. --> https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/129-how-change-your-own-oil.html

Honestly it is a cheap, quick and easy thing to do on these bikes, and if I bought a 2017 with 500 miles on it, I would do it just to be sure it was done right. My 2 cents.

Congrats on picking up a great bike!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the response. I will do a complete oil change before the weekend and check regularly in the future. I am not sure the previous owner took in for the initial service and I understand the valve gap's are checked in this process. I plan on checking this also before my next ride, but do you think this could cause the bike to burn oil? Also, what is the likelihood I did serious damage to the bike by riding it with a low oil level?
 

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Thanks for the response. I will do a complete oil change before the weekend and check regularly in the future. I am not sure the previous owner took in for the initial service and I understand the valve gap's are checked in this process. I plan on checking this also before my next ride, but do you think this could cause the bike to burn oil? Also, what is the likelihood I did serious damage to the bike by riding it with a low oil level?
I would venture to guess the bike is fine. Change the oil, fire it up and see how it rides. Highly unlikely you damaged anything. Let us know how it goes.
 

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At the very least going through the oil change procedure is a good way to learn about, and get comfortable with, servicing your own bike. It is not difficult and you get peace of mind that it was done right. And yes, beware the incorrectly boxed oil filters that lack the four holes, there are unbelievably still some of them out there in the parts supply stream.

P.S. WELCOME DMCG!
 

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At the very least going through the oil change procedure is a good way to learn about, and get comfortable with, servicing your own bike. It is not difficult and you get peace of mind that it was done right. And yes, beware the incorrectly boxed oil filters that lack the four holes, there are unbelievably still some of them out there in the parts supply stream.

P.S. WELCOME DMCG!.... and a link for some downloadable service manuals, make sure to get the Supplement as it includes some changes made since 2001 relevant to your bike.https://tw200forum.com/forum/technica...r-manuals.html
 

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all good advise on getting to know your bike through oil changes. you may not have done any damage to the motor by running low on oil, but since the motor started to slow down and the first thing to run dry is the cam bearings, there is alwas a chance for problems in the future. good practice to check the oil every day, only takes a minute. also, fully break the engine and gear box in before abusing it doing wheels
 

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Welcome to the forum. Hopefully everything is ok. Good advice here. I’ll add...

Pre-Ride Checklist

Quick exam for oil and gas leaks
Check oil sightglass
If your clutch normally sticks (bike dies when you put into 1st gear) push bike a few feet with clutch pulled and bike in 1st gear
Start bike and let warm up, while...
Check tire pressures
Run finger across all spokes
Check chain slack and masterlink

Enjoy your ride

Can add many other important steps. This takes me a few minutes while the bike warms up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for your comments. I will let you know how it goes after the oil change. But suppose I did seize the engine is the bike toast? Or could I send the engine out to be rebuilt?
 

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"But suppose I did seize the engine is the bike toast?" - While unlikely, should there be engine damage it would in all probability be limited to the top end, i.e. damage to cam, valves, piston, rings &/or cylinder.
The work entailed to repair would not be that difficult, extensive, nor expensive to perform yourself. If money is more available than time then you could always pay a commercial mechanic upwards of $100/ hr to do any repairs. Or do it yourself if you have a bit of shop or garage space. To buy all the tools imaginable for a top end re-build should be well under $100. Doing the work yourself can save significantly on any parts needed since the mechanics typically mark parts up about 100% from their costs. They typically get their parts locally from brick and mortar vendor who also has to mark their prices up to cover cost of inventory and business. So if you can cut out those two middlemen, order directlyand do the work yourself a top end repair can be under $200 rather than upwards of $800.


 

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Excellent point Fred. Top end rebuilds are not very difficult or expensive on the TW. Worst case scenario.
 

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I only know of one TW that ran out of oil due to a loose oil bleed bolt and in that case the wrist pin and small end of the rod were toast. This all happened in about 5 miles of riding.

When the wrong filter is installed people state they ride approximately 25 miles before they have trouble.

As for the sight glass, the bike has to be perfectly vertical. If off by just a little bit can make it look either to full or not enough. Drain the oil, refill with exactly one liter, then look at the sight glass and see where the oil level should be. Good luck and welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Over the years I have taken many things apart and about half the time I can get them back together:D. So if I do it myself I may need a lot of hand holding.
 

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Over the years I have taken many things apart and about half the time I can get them back together:D. So if I do it myself I may need a lot of hand holding.
I doubt you will have to in this situation after the correct oil change procedures are followed. But, worst case scenario, I think we could walk you through it ;)
 

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This Forum walked me through a top end re-build from cylinder base gasket up. Having the Forum as a resource gave me the confidence, as well as the technical information, to complete the job successfully. If you ever need help it will likely be cheerfully given. We rarely beat anyone up for understandable mistakes, there is a first time for everyone.
 

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Check your new filter.

DSC094382JPG.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #19
I did the oil change and took her for a ride. All seemed fine... maybe a little tapping but I think I heard that prior to this ride. After taking off the drain plug, I was shocked by the amount of metal on the screen, but this may be normal (kinda of like blood...a little can look like a lot). Also the oil filter that I took out was like the above (left) but it did not have the paper folds and instead had a metal screen material. I also measured the oil that came out of the bike to be 1.4 liters, so my original oil loss was not as bad as first seemed. It was cold outside so I didn't fool with it, but I need to figure out a way to consistently position the bike in order to get consistent sight glass readings. I will send pics of both the old filter and dirty screen later. Thanks for your help.
 
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