[stumpjumper]

So this past fall I rode my Tdub up to my girlfriends place and pulled into the garage shut it off.In the morning I come out and turn the key and push the starter button and she just don't want to go.I start checkin things out and find I have no spark.I had just recently had a base gasket replaced twice.Had it done once and when I got it back it was leaking so I took it back and they replaced it agin(free)and thats it.So what should I look at first coil stator condensor what?

 

[qwerty]

Your girlfriend. You're going to need some patience, understanding, and lovingly rolled eyes.

 

[Hoogie514]

I would start with a new plug or at least meter that one to make sure its good, then, connections on the ignition coil and plug wire. Your bike has a CDI unit and no condenser to fail on you. Simple and inexpensive first always! What have you checked so far ?

 

[ezman671]

Check the kickstand and kill switch.



Lotza work has been done on bikes when all that was needed was to place the kill switch in the correct position to RUN.

 

[peruano]

Stumpjumper, To get meaningful help we will need to know what you have done and what the symptoms are. `

1. Won't go - do you mean it turns over with the starter but won't start? A failure to do anything when the starter button is pressed is often a safety switch or low battery. A failure to start even tho the starter turns the bike over is related to fuel or spark.

2. No spark - how did you monitor the absence of spark?

The wires that sneak out the back side of the left engine side plate are notorious for getting pinched by slopping installation. This is something to check if all easy diagnostics fail to lead you to the right answer.

Spark plugs rarely fail but they are subject to abuse. Wires break of their own free will. Etc., etc., etc. Anytime you completely disassemble something and put it back together, there is a chance that something gets changed or misinstalled. I'd work on the easy stuff and then consider your recent work and how it could have affected the bike electrical system. Good luck but especially stay in touch and give us more info if you want useful input. Tom

 

[stumpjumper]

Right now my bike is in my shed along with the rest of my bikes. When it its 10 below zero outside its just a touch chilly out there.and I don't have heated seats

The bike will turn over when the starter button is pushed.The kill switch is not on when doing this.I pulled the plug out and with the plug wired attached I pushed the button to start.It turns over but no spark is present.I have not checked the kick stand kill switch to see if its working properly but I assume it acts like the kill switch and grounds it out so by disconnecting it that should be removed from the list of possibles.I have never had a plug fail to fire in and of itself.SO next would be coil or CDI and which would be the more likely of the 2 to fail and is there an easy way to test them to see if they are bad?

 

[pgilles]

Right now my bike is in my shed along with the rest of my bikes. When it its 10 below zero outside its just a touch chilly out there.and I don't have heated seats

The bike will turn over when the starter button is pushed.The kill switch is not on when doing this.I pulled the plug out and with the plug wired attached I pushed the button to start.It turns over but no spark is present.I have not checked the kick stand kill switch to see if its working properly but I assume it acts like the kill switch and grounds it out so by disconnecting it that should be removed from the list of possibles.I have never had a plug fail to fire in and of itself.SO next would be coil or CDI and which would be the more likely of the 2 to fail and is there an easy way to test them to see if they are bad?

Kickstand/sidestand switch acts opposite of the key switch but same as the kill switch, the ground is needed in order to allow the CDI to work properly. Being the kill switch and sidestand switch are in the same circuit, something could be faulty with kill switch or its wiring. If kill switch is good then even if the sidestand switch has been disabled improperly the bike should still start in neutral (provided the ignition cutoff relay and its associated circuit is still operational). So when it warms up there are a few things to start off with.

 

[stumpjumper]

So then I can jump the side stand or bypass it to see if it is indeed that switch itself.i guess then I sould also test my kill switch to make sure it works correctly

 

[pgilles]

So then I can jump the side stand or bypass it to see if it is indeed that switch itself.i guess then I sould also test my kill switch to make sure it works correctly

Yeah, get a multimeter and start checking some suspects that are susceptible to vibrating loose, dirt/corrosion, shorting/wearing through their insulation, etc.



Make sure the kill switch has a good ground to it. If yes, then make sure the wire leaving it still has that good ground when in the RUN position. If yes, make sure that good grounding is present at the CDI when the sidestand is down in the parked position (the wire to check as seen in the above diagram is the blue/yellow wire traveling from the CDI to the sidestand switch and then to the kill switch as a blue/white wire).



To bypass the sidestand switch just connect the two wires running to the switch to each other.

 

[stumpjumper]

Any easy way to test the CDI itself if those are all fine

 

[pgilles]

Any easy way to test the CDI itself if those are all fine

If those test fine, it doesn't mean the CDI is bad. Still need to check the black/white wire running to the main switch that could have chafed and is grounding out against the chassis, the spark plug is deemed good and gap is correct, the spark plug boot is clean and not corroded, the battery is strong enough to spin the engine over fast enough so it can generate a spark, the stator wires are in good shape and the stator tests out (not saying you should test that now, just saying that's a piece of the CDI's puzzle), the spark plug was grounded properly during the test when checking for spark, etc.



It happens, but an overnight failure of a major electrical component seems too odd. To have it run without any symptoms, park it, then come back out 12 hours later and have nothing sounds like something is corroded/dirty, loose, chafed, dead/dying, etc.



Check the easy/cheap/free stuff, then double-check it: Multimetering the wiring, install new spark plug and gap it to spec (or just below spec), charge battery. CDI's and coils are non-returnable electrical parts so if you hope they fix your issue, then they don't, you can't return them to get your money back. Make sure you have checked all other options before throwing those parts at it.

 

[stumpjumper]

Thanks will see what things look like when I test them. I will have to dig her out of the shed and get her down to the workshop before the snow gets too deep

 

[OMP]

Thanks will see what things look like when I test them. I will have to dig her out of the shed and get her down to the workshop before the snow gets too deep

Sheeezzzz. What is this the year of "no spark"? I have the same problem. Started and rode the bike the other

day and it had a low speed miss, so I pulled the float bowl and cleaned it along with the plugged low speed

jet and generally hosed the innards with carb cleaner. Put it back together and "no spark". Battery's topped

off, fuel is in the bowl, new plug.



I understand closing the circuit on the sidestand switch will circumvent that "safety switch", but will closing

the clutch switch do the same? It's unclear(to me) from the circuit diagram whether closing both switches

simultaneously might tell the logic not to start.

 

[OMP]

Sheeezzzz. What is this the year of "no spark"? I have the same problem. Started and rode the bike the other

day and it had a low speed miss, so I pulled the float bowl and cleaned it along with the plugged low speed

jet and generally hosed the innards with carb cleaner. Put it back together and "no spark". Battery's topped

off, fuel is in the bowl, new plug.



I understand closing the circuit on the sidestand switch will circumvent that "safety switch", but will closing

the clutch switch do the same? It's unclear(to me) from the circuit diagram whether closing both switches

simultaneously might tell the logic not to start.

EREKA!! I have found it. Turns out that when I pulled the tank, I inadvertently disconnected the hot

wire to the spark plug( little connector). Fires right up.

 

[pgilles]

Sheeezzzz. What is this the year of "no spark"? I have the same problem. Started and rode the bike the other

day and it had a low speed miss, so I pulled the float bowl and cleaned it along with the plugged low speed

jet and generally hosed the innards with carb cleaner. Put it back together and "no spark". Battery's topped

off, fuel is in the bowl, new plug.



I understand closing the circuit on the sidestand switch will circumvent that "safety switch", but will closing

the clutch switch do the same? It's unclear(to me) from the circuit diagram whether closing both switches

simultaneously might tell the logic not to start.

The clutch only controls the whether the starter circuit will energize or not. It will not disable spark. It's only to prevent starting the bike while accidentally being in gear.



The sidestand switch is there to disable the spark and kill the bike in case one wishes to drive off with the sidestand down.

 

[pgilles]

EREKA!! I have found it. Turns out that when I pulled the tank, I inadvertently disconnected the hot

wire to the spark plug( little connector). Fires right up.

Cool!