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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My round headlight high beam is burnt out so I'm planning it\s replacement...

So I'm considering a 6 LED config with a 2 LED config on each side of that and would like to wire the dual LEDs in parallel in the high beam circuit. Aside from brackets will this work work well without any mods? It looks like it might but I don't know anything about the high beam circuit aside from the shared negative. Or should I tie the high beam signal into the 6 LED and forget about the other 2s because the 6 can handle it?
sku_401097_1.jpg
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/4Inch-30W-LED-Light-Bar-Spot-Beam-Work-Light-For-4WD-4X4-Driving-Lamp-Truck-Boat/322944874975?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
2.jpg
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/3Inch-10W-LED-Light-Bar-Flood-Beam-Work-Light-For-Wagon-UTB-Cab-ATV-SUV-4WD-4X4/322944984488?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

All LEDs are 12-24V. The 6 is 30W and the 2s are 10W each.

Any advice or suggests or experiences welcome...
 

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I would be hesitant to add 50 watts to the hi-beam circuitry as is, assuming you are still using the stock H4 Halogen bulb. The concerns are overloading Hi-beam circuit wiring as well as total current draw taxing the batteries ability to recharge.
Solutions could include unloading the high beam wiring via a relay powering the added lights ( I would add a separate arming switch to energize the relay and then trigger it with the stock Hi-beam switch).
Another approach is to reduce stock current draw via LED conversion or elimination of stock incandescent bulbs. i.e. get a LED headlight and delete front running lights as well as the two 10w planned LED pods. Think of limiting total draw to a nominal 90 watts of stator output at full song ( generated current output is less at lower R.P.M.s)
 

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r.e. post #2: Adding only 30 watts via the 6-LED pod might work, taxes total energy balance a bit and would be safer with a relay. My approach has been to first free up amperage with a LED headlight conversion so I cannot accurately address the effects of your plan.
Maybe others know better. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry about the confusion there I went back and updated that the current headlight is going and want to replace with the 6LED ....I considered flanking it with others but maybe it's best to wait and see how the 6 LED works out.
 

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OK, I understand, no more stock H4 halogen. Then all three planned lights should be just fine using just existing Hi-beam wiring and switch. 6LED pod alone might not yield enough light to satisfy your needs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Now that I think of it more Edit..... high beam signal added to the running light on the 6 pod shouldn't be more then 24V on high beam setting which this LED pod can handle.

If the 6 pod is as bright as my current headlight high beam that's fine. I'm mostly concerned about the present battery drain and weight. I have a 10W on a motorized bicycle and if it's 3X as bright it should be fine on it's own. The extra LEDs flanking would be for peripheral but on the high beam switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)

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Looks more like 18 of the standard 3 watt CREE chipsets; 6 in the spot reflectors and 6 w/o reflectors on each side. Who knows for sure, thought I counted 18 chips? Give it a try.

If not r.e. post #8 you should wire any multiple lights in parallel so each sees 12V, not in series where each will have a 6V drop. Bike will never generate 24V without a transformer. Sounds like the elimination of the H4 will leave bike without low beams. If you want Low beams they could be the 2 LED pods originally proposed and be driven off the existing low beam wiring. That low beam circuit is alway energized; hi-beam switch simply energizes another filament ( or LED array) in parallel with the active Low beam.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I listed the specs in post 9. which does seems like a better idea. Especially if the high beam could be used to increase brightness of the one pod.

In relation to flanking with 2LED pods I did say parallel on the high beam circuit in post 1. My plan to eliminate the current headlight was to replace the running light with the 6LED pod.

I'm a little confused about the high beam circuit. On my current aftermarket round headlight it looks like I burnt out the high beam bulb and now when I turn on the high beam switch the running light shuts off. No headlight at all. This is why I previously assumed the high beam circuit cuts off the running light circuit and replaces it with a higher unknown voltage that illuminates both parts of the bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's possible...I've also seen one with 12 or so cree LED that have been fit in the stock cowl...I saw it on google images.

I'm not interested in using the stock cowling myself. But go ahead and add anything LED to the thread.
 

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From my experience LED's don't like power fluctuations ..... unlike the original incandescent bulb.

Run the LED lights through a fused relay off the battery. This will give them a consistent/clean and strong power supply. Trigger the relay with the high beam circuit. The same way your high beam light comes on the dash .... the LED lights will come on when key on and the high beam is applied.
 

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I'm a little confused about the high beam circuit. On my current aftermarket round headlight it looks like I burnt out the high beam bulb and now when I turn on the high beam switch the running light shuts off. No headlight at all. This is why I previously assumed the high beam circuit cuts off the running light circuit and replaces it with a higher unknown voltage that illuminates both parts of the bulb.
TW200 headlight comes straight from the stator/regulator and not from the battery. That way key on won't drain your battery when using the e-start and if your battery isn't working you still have a headlight to drive home safely if needed.

Low beam and high beam both see 12v from the same power supply the switch just picks which beam/element you want to run. The elements inside the headlight bulb are what gives hi/low beam lumen differences.

So the low/hi circuits do not run at the same time ..... although the voltage stays the same and just the internal headlight element switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks Heli-Mech

Most of that makes sense and answers a lot of my questions (I'm very inquisitive). It seems a little odd that the headlight comes on with the key and engine off, and it dims when I click the electric start. It must draw off both power sources to varying degrees...

My experience differs in that I built lightsabers that seemed fine with power fluctuation to create a blade shimmer and flash on clash effect. Though the voltage requirements were < 7.2V so I'm not surprised if it's a little different. I'm really good with soldering, heatshrink, and basic circuits etc...otherwise my electrical knowledge is very basic.

Can you make a suggestion for the fused relay needed to run the LED that I gave specs for in post 9 of this thread? Or do I need to have it in hand to meter it and get more specific? Edit...I should specify this will be the only headlight running. The only other lights are two stock comparable rear turn signals and an LED taillight.

Are you suggesting the high beam circuit off of the battery as to not interfere with electric starting? And allow to shut off the lights with a running engine?
 

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My mistake, apologies for hi-lo error. My comment is based on all three of the fan assisted H4 LEDs I've had have seemingly had their low beam chip(s) on all the time and activation of the hi-beam switch then activates additional chipsets. Must be some internal circuitry within those H4 LED replacements that powers up the low beam chip in both the hi and lo beam circuitry.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looking at the bulb itself I can see how you could come to that conclusion...till one of them burns out.

Then again for all I know it's not the bulb that burnt out. It may have been a fuse of some other electrical issue.
 

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Sorry, was not referring to a bulb but instead of observed LED H4 replacement's behavior, both bench tested prior to installation as well was in service life. I had one of two LED chips fail on my first H4 replacement. It loss resulted in no light output in the switch's lo beam position and introduced a big gap in the beam pattern and overall light intensity projected on the ground in the hi-beam position.
Just an observation.
No matter how wired or configured LEDs are an evolving efficient enjoyable alternative to incandescent lighting. Unfortunately for the replacements their chip arrays don't align well with the parabolic reflectors focal point that the OEM filament based bulbs were designed to optimize. As a result a lot of the additional light output can go into less than uniform beam patterns. Fortunately integrated designs of LED plus full size reflectors like those of JNS engineering LED Headlight Kit now address this issue.
 
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