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I bought a 2010 tw200 from the dealership 1 week ago wit 256 miles on it. It now has 1033. When should I change the oil? When the bike is off and I hold it uprigt, the oil exceeds the first mark. Should I wait until it goes below the first mark? Also, I want to know THE BEST oil for my tw200. Idk if it matters but I do hard riding. I rarely just cruise and enjoy the scenery.
 

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Hello osheen and welcome to the forum. I would change the oil now, since it is a new engine. Change the filter, too. I change my oil and filter every six months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first. If you rev alot and climb hills and really run it hard, you could change it more frequently.



the oil level in the glass won't change, so don't go by that.



The link below has some great info on engine break-in and basic maintenance. There is some religious overtones and biblical quotes included. If that's not your thing, just ignore those parts.



http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm
 

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Osheen



Welcome to The T-Dub Club!



I'm trying my hardest not to be too cynical when I read your posts. I really don't intend to be mean, we all have to learn some how. I have been reading many of your questions and I think you will find most of, if not all of, the answers to your questions in two or three documents. 1. The owners manual. 2. The maintenance manual. 3. The manual supplement for the newer bikes. All three can be found on this forum in the tech section under the pinned items.
 

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Here is the link to the Manuals!



Almost everything you need to know is right there. If you can't find it or have detailed questions ask up. There are a bunch of guys here that really know the TW. If you really want to see it get interesting on here start a new thread and ask What Kind and What Type of Oil to use. Bahaha
 

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Osheen,I'd let the TW get broke-in first,but alot of TW'ers use synthetic MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC OIL.....Amsoil,Mobile-1,and the like.I believe the manual says to have the oil inbetween the two sight glass marks if not a "tad" towards the upper mark.......read your manuals, thats how we all learn and keeps your bike lasting along time!. Welcome, and have fun!.
 

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I have the same miles on my 2008 and switched to Mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic after reading threads that shifts were smoother and more crisp with less 'thunk' on downshifts to first at a stop. I was highly skeptical, but it's absolutely a different bike. I am told the synthetic will flow better in low temperatures as well making for quicker warm-ups. Try the Hi-Flo filters available for a few bucks on Ebay as well. They are pleated, so have more surface area for flow. Hope this helps.
 

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I was preparing to change the oil in my TW200 for the first time and ordered some oil filters from D2Moto a few days ago. The filters arrived today (VMOF143) and I noticed that they did NOT have the 4 slots and 4 holes on the end. D2Moto is selling these filters for $2.99 each and stating that they will fit the Yamaha TW200 from 1987-2012. I am not going to install these oil filters in my TW200 thanks to the info on this forum.



 

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I am having no luck finding synthetic Mobil 1, 10 or 15w-40w racing oil. I have a couple of quarts of the synthetic 10w-30w Mobil 1 (for motorcycles), but I am concerned about the temperature range under which I can use it. That little chart in the manual appears to limit me to an upper temperature limit of 60 degrees......is that right? If so, I've got to keep looking because it gets up into the 90s here during the latter parts of June and on into summer.
 

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Lots of people don't change their filter. It's a metal screen type filter, so it's meant to be cleaned and re-used. I am using Rotella-T 10-40. I am going to change to Mobil 1 full synthetic in hopes of enjoying some of that sought after SMOOTH! You'll learn lots here, enjoy.
 

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Thanks, Fred.....I'll search for some of that then, too. I figured that the heavier viscosity Mobil1 would be easier to find than it is here.:dispirited:

EDIT: I just called an Auto Zone about 20 miles from me and they have 2 Qts. they're saving back for me.

Thanks again, Fred!
 

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The TW only takes 1 quart of oil. Change your oil now and change it often. Here is a thread on how to do it and how to make sure you use the right filter:



How to Change your own oil



Brian
This cannot be stressed enough.

Change it often. It's due now. Obviously with the original "owners" it wasn't broken it.

It needs it. Now. You can get shop manuals online, free...takes some searching. That's how I found mine...but it would violate forum rules for me to put up the PDF of the manual.

But, do it. I'd advise getting some tools and learning to do it yourself. And then do it frequently, like every thousand miles.

CAREFUL of the threads. The engine case is aluminum. Get a torque wrench and learn to use it. Don't be like me - half-stripping threads, because of incorrect torquing information.

But...every time you change your own oil, you save yourself $50. And every time you change it at a thousand miles - or at least once a season - you guarantee that the robust TW will outlive you.

EDIT: I see this is an old thread. See what happens when you web-surf on a Saturday Night?
 

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Mobil 1 4t 10w-40 racing oil is scarce in your neck of the woods Wolfy?......strange. Walmart around my area carries it. The first number, 10w is crucial , it's a correct weight for cold starts. Just stick with OEM oil filters. ......if you need too change one due to damage or whatever. Even then , check the filter to confirm the required 4 holes.
 

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I tried Shell Rotella in both my TW's. It was on sale and I had just installed new rings and wanted to use dino oil for the first 1500 miles. After about 100 miles the clutches started slipping. Both clutches. They only slipped at full throttle when I was torturing the thing, but they did slip. I switched back to motorcycle oil but that didn't do any good. Co-incidence? Could be but you won't convince me.

I ended up installing Barnett Kevlar clutches and using motorcycle oil and all is well. Very well.
 
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