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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Up here in the rockies enjoying the rides. Changed my oil before we left, have put another 200 miles on it since. Well at some point the bolt furthest left facing the housing broke off inside near where the threads start. I used a torque wrench when installing. No oil is leaking. How the hell does this happen?
 

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Possibly torque wrench not properly calibrated? Wouldn't take much to overtighten, as you're prolly aware.

This happened to me on the right side upper triple little over a year ago.

Also, seems either the owners manual or service manual....one calls for 7.? ft/lbs, and the other 10 ft/lbs. Which did you use?

Possibly a weak spot in the bolt as well.

Anyways...sorry to hear.

Nice pics BTW.....:cool:
 

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I now torque mine to six ft/lbs
I snapped one at 8 ft/lbs
You can get a complete stainless steel bolt set on eBay ..
Replace all motor bolts as needed ...
mike from NC
 

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Beautiful photos.
The only force acting on that bolt strong enough to break it either on the trail or in the shop was the torque wrench.
Did fractured bolt head fall off or leak on the trail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Possibly torque wrench not properly calibrated? Wouldn't take much to overtighten, as you're prolly aware.

This happened to me on the right side upper triple little over a year ago.

Also, seems either the owners manual or service manual....one calls for 7.? ft/lbs, and the other 10 ft/lbs. Which did you use?

Possibly a weak spot in the bolt as well.

Anyways...sorry to hear.

Nice pics BTW.....:cool:
The lower of the 2, like 7.2 lbs if I remember correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Beautiful photos.
The only force acting on that bolt strong enough to break it either on the trail or in the shop was the torque wrench.
Did fractured bolt head fall off or leak on the trail?
Lost the bolt head somewhere in the rockies, last ride I believe because I could see the black ring where it was preventing dust from touching the housing. No leakage, looks like I can back it out with pliers.
 

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Wife took a fall (nothing bad) and it didn't damage the crate at all.
Was the fall pre damaged bolt head? Which side was the fall? Any damage marks to the case around that area? Regardless.....any chance a rock, etc. coulda made contact....right on that bolt head shearing it off?

Glad y'all were able to carry on. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Was the fall pre damaged bolt head? Which side was the fall? Any damage marks to the case around that area? Regardless.....any chance a rock, etc. coulda made contact....right on that bolt head shearing it off?

Glad y'all were able to carry on. (y)
Different bike, she fell, my bolt busted off.

Thanks! We had a blast. I've been super busy with work so we didn't get to do much this summer, next year should have a good bit more trail riding mixed in. Top and bottom pics are Cordova pass, middle pic is hwy 13 out of Pickett Wire.
 

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I am going to go back to (mostly) not torqueing any bolts...... I got by for years basically only bustin out the torque wrench to torque heads, but these Yamaha torque values seem way to tight. So many times I've said surly that's gotta be tight enough, but the torque wrench disagrees. It's almost as though the guy at Yamaha who wrote the4 manual didn't have HIS wrench calibrated....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am going to go back to (mostly) not torqueing any bolts...... I got by for years basically only bustin out the torque wrench to torque heads, but these Yamaha torque values seem way to tight. So many times I've said surly that's gotta be tight enough, but the torque wrench disagrees. It's almost as though the guy at Yamaha who wrote the4 manual didn't have HIS wrench calibrated....
I thought to, that maybe the quality of the bolts had gone down over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Meant to add, our riding consisted of around 8000 feet to 11,200 at the highest. The wife had a few isues with her TW, a little harder to start, idle a bit lower. Mine ran with no issue other than a slight loss of giddy up going up steep roads on the highway.
 

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Actually many large tire places use “torque limiting sockets” to ensure wheels get tight but not too tight. I’ve seen the result of insufficient torque on a car wheel, not cool. I’ve also replaced Warped rotors from diy over tight. On smaller diameter bolts with less than 10lbs it can be conducive to swap to inch pounds with smaller wrench. T wrenches come in different sizes
a large capacity wrench will not be very accurate at low settings. There’s nothing wrong with using slightly less torque as long as blue lock tight applied.
 

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Actually many large tire places use “torque limiting sockets” to ensure wheels get tight but not too tight. I’ve seen the result of insufficient torque on a car wheel, not cool. I’ve also replaced Warped rotors from diy over tight. On smaller diameter bolts with less than 10lbs it can be conducive to swap to inch pounds with smaller wrench. T wrenches come in different sizes
a large capacity wrench will not be very accurate at low settings. There’s nothing wrong with using slightly less torque as long as blue lock tight applied.

Torque limiting, yes. But unless it is some high end dealership / race car they do not precisely torque lugnuts, Different cars / models have different values and they do not reset for every one. Rattle guns normally have adjustable ranges and overtightening has as many pitfalls as under tightening. Still I stand by my assertion that just because a fastener has a certain torque specification does not mean that it must be followed precisely.
 
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