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Discussion Starter #1
The manual calls for 10W30. No problem, that’s readily available.

But, it also specifies Service Code SE.

I searched all over locally and could find SN, SL, SG SJ etc. etc. but no SE.

Is that really necessary? Would any other be ok? And what do these codes mean?
 

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SE would be the standard back when the manual was made, and it would be the minimum. As mentioned, the higher letter combo supercedes the older standard and is appropriate to use.
 

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Just chuck some oil in it - she'll be fine ....

Otherwise, what are your ambient running temperatures, your changing regime, and how hard do you run a cold engine

10/40 covers most situations ..... ;)
 

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Make sure its JASO MA or better too. todays car oile have a lot of friction modifiers in them that could wreck the clutch. JASO MA is wet clutch compatible.
^^^This^^^
 

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Here you go pick one and go for it.

TW oil.jpg
 

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Love that Mobil One Racing 4t oil...
 

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Love that Mobil One Racing 4t oil...
That's what we use 99% of the time. But I bought the other one for some reason last year so I put it in one TW and mobile in the other. Never noticed any difference. But I will be putting the mobile one i all three bikes next year.
 

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Make sure its JASO MA or better too. todays car oile have a lot of friction modifiers in them that could wreck the clutch. JASO MA is wet clutch compatible.
This is really only a problem on oils marked as "Energy Conserving" and I'm not aware of any 10W40 oils that are energy conserving. Most of your Energy Conserving oils are going to be 0W20, 5W20 stuff like that.
 

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This is really only a problem on oils marked as "Energy Conserving" and I'm not aware of any 10W40 oils that are energy conserving. Most of your Energy Conserving oils are going to be 0W20, 5W20 stuff like that.
You could well be right but why risk it? At the end of the day if you make a mistake and wreck the clutch it’s going to set you back a lot more than the tens of dollars you may save by buying car oil instead of motorcycle oil for the life of the bike.
 

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If you accidentally use car oil use Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer to swell them back up and keep riding. Just add a little, 4 ounces or so.
 

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Hot damm another oil thread. I like the Castrol’s Power 1 full synthetic 4 T motorcycle in 10w-50. It says it’s a “Power Release” formula for superior acceleration.


0BB12D07-7DF7-408D-8D20-25BF5D15BB75.jpeg


Here you go pick one and go for it
 

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Shell Rotella T has 2 JASO ratings plus some members on the forum use it with what they claim is success. I tried it in 2 different TW's and in both of them the clutch started slipping

PC080022.JPG PC080024.JPG

Silver lining to the cloud was I upgraded to a Barnett Kevlar clutch and couldn't be happier.
P5090053A.jpg
 

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Stay with motorcycle specific engine oils , especially with a starting weight of 10w or your bike and you will pay the price later for a rebuild. Rotella T isn't the same as it was years ago. Yes , 10w 40 car oils are energy conserving type, don't use them . Any rating AFTER SE is fine.
 

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Much less clutch drag when it is cold, zero slip, very smooth transition from disengaged to engaged. Also, and I am just taking a wild guess, I bet that the Kevlar will withstand more abuse and will out last the cork by a long shot.

I have to add that there is nothing wrong with cork. It is cheaper and works well in millions of motorcycles. But to me the Kevlar is better. Much better.
 
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