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Discussion Starter #1
does anyone use synthetic oil. my top of the valve guide broke so I cant use a valve seal on the intake. would it be a good idea to use synthetic oil so it don't build up carbon on the valve? thank you.
 

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You could always replace the valve guide. Fix it right, you and your bike will be happier in the long run. I think most of us are using a motorcycle specific synthetic oil. Good oil equals less wear and better shifting. How did the top of the valve guide break? Never seen this happen without a little help.
 

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does anyone use synthetic oil. my top of the valve guide broke so I cant use a valve seal on the intake. would it be a good idea to use synthetic oil so it don't build up carbon on the valve? thank you.
Like Scotti states "Fix it right"

Trying to work around a problem like that may leave you stranded in somewhere you had rather not be.

You could always replace the valve guide. Fix it right, you and your bike will be happier in the long run. I think most of us are using a motorcycle specific synthetic oil. Good oil equals less wear and better shifting. How did the top of the valve guide break? Never seen this happen without a little help.
Well then, i'm one of the exceptions to that. Shell Rotella T4
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it had a burned intake valve, the end of the stem was mushroomed and removing it ? how long do the rings hold up in these. I bought it not running with 12000 miles on it. I just wanted to get it running until I could see if it shifted ok or had any other problems.
 

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ihow long do the rings hold up in these?
Others on this forum better qualified to answer, than I.
Meanwhile, that is a loaded question, as it depends upon:
1. Was it properly run-in?
2. Was it ALWAYS allowed to warm up before working hard?
3. Did it spend a lot of time at higher RPMs?
4. Oil changed frequently?
5. Good quality oil?
 

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it had a burned intake valve, the end of the stem was mushroomed and removing it ? how long do the rings hold up in these. I bought it not running with 12000 miles on it. I just wanted to get it running until I could see if it shifted ok or had any other problems.
Valve stems mushroom from running it without the proper valve lash set (too loose), always file around the top of the stem with a fine file when it occurs so you can get the valve out without damaging the guide.

Changing a guide is is not for an amateur, it's "involved".

as far as running it without a stem seal.. bad idea unless it's for a very short distance to check things as you said. Best to just buy a used head off of eBay.

Best of luck, get it running! Have some fun!
 

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An Oil thread!!!! I knew someday someone here would start an oil thread. Just joking. But, in all seriousness, unless something has changed, people here love oil threads. It might seem like an artificial answer, but I always use synthetic oil.
 

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Others on this forum better qualified to answer, than I.
Meanwhile, that is a loaded question, as it depends upon:
1. Was it properly run-in?
2. Was it ALWAYS allowed to warm up before working hard?
3. Did it spend a lot of time at higher RPMs?
4. Oil changed frequently?
5. Good quality oil?

Sports Doc! I just noticed, you have way way too many bikes! Get some therapy man! :)
 

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Just passed 800 miles. Changed the oil at 65 , 150 and 400 miles (oil is cheap) . What are the thoughts on how many miles before changing to synthetic?
 

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Just passed 800 miles. Changed the oil at 65 , 150 and 400 miles (oil is cheap) . What are the thoughts on how many miles before changing to synthetic?
I used dino until 1600 miles and switched to synthetic. Some machines are tightly machined from the factory and come with synthetic - like Rotax motors - the Dub (imo) needs some time to "mate up" moving parts. There are definitely differing views concerning this - I like to err on the side of safer.
 

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I bought a quart of Yamalube full synthetic from my dealer for almost $20. That still sits on the shelf with a couple other bottles of Mobil 1.
What I've been using in both my TW and my VStar is Rotella T6. No complaints and it feels like shifts are much smoother too!
 

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Hmmm ….

Dino oil degrades gradually, so it’s great for breaking in the older style engine, such as the TW. The stuff also takes a few minutes to warm up (which no-body does these days), thinking that what’s good for their Honda Accord is good for their bike as well. Many is the time when I’ve heard people say on here that their TW “needs no choke, just press the starter and I jump on it straight away and hare off up the road” — not being the confrontational type, I simply make a note of the owner in my “do not buy a TW from this guy” book

But, if the bike is new, Dino is cheap, and does what it says on the tin. The “cheap” factor being preferable for a few reasons, as you’ll be changing it frequently ….

At around 1.5k, once you’ve got all of that metal sludge and shavings out of your TW engine, you can then switch to synthetic should you choose to do so. The advantages of synthetic, is it’s super slippery smooth, and provides adequate lubrication at lower temperature than Dino. So now you can boast about riding your bike within seconds of start-up, without ruining it (I have a separate book for people who do this)

There is a downside to synthetic however, well, several actually — the performance fall off rate is pretty steep — one minute it’s fine, the next it’s knackered, whereas Dino deteriorates more gradually. If you change it regularly, it’s fine - if you don’t, you’re running on water. Another issue is the “gasket problem”.

Now, just before you all start telling me that you run synthetic and your gaskets are fine, (mine are too by the way), if you have a gasket that’s “thinking” about giving way, synthetic will likely take it over the edge — it’s a molecular thing. This all started in 2006 to 2009, when Yamaha started fecking up the production process. The whole “gasket” thing is an easy fix, I just thought that I’d get all the 2006 to 2009 paranoid about synthetic oil — it’s the way my mind works

But, as soon as you change your oil, the gear changes will be smoother, and the “sticking clutch” will be a thing of the past — for about 500 miles, whatever type of oil you use

I hope that this diatribe will have bored you to death by now, and that it will also have played a part in discouraging any more “what oil should I use” threads. If not, I’m quite content to do this all over again, (if only to wind up those who think I have a tendency to procrastinate, which Trumps lawyers are currently working on) — and please, feel free to join in (at length) ……. :cool:
 

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Folks who frequently change their oil should be prepared to also replace the affected drain and filter gaskets on a more frequent basis. Similarly the drain fitting itself often suffers thread wear with each assembly and disassembly cycle so care should be excercised when performing an oil change. I have seen several drain plugs damaged to the point of un-servicability as a result of cumulative and perhaps improper tools and techniques. A proper socket on an extension combined with a bit of axial force to compress the internal spring when engaging the plugs threads is a good approach. Wrenches tend to apply non-axial forces that can interfere with proper initial thread engagement.
 
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