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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There have been more than a few threads over the years about installing LED turn signals, and there are several ways to go about it, depending on the year of the bike. There has also been some misinformation over the years. I thought I would relate my completely trouble free installation on a 2018 TW, which I also think would work all the way back to 2001.

First, what to buy and where: Procycle Crash Advantage LED signals (from Dynamic Moto Power....whoever they are):
LED Signals 001.JPG
These look identical to several items I found on the internet at substantially lower prices, but I was unable to verify that they were in fact identical, especially in the ability to bend nearly 90 degrees, so I passed in favor of a well known company. Bendable to 90 degrees.



Two items from Superbrightleds.com:

LED Signals 003.JPG
The solid sate flasher. $8.95

Installed in place of the OEM flasher just above the rear brake light switch with zip ties (left is up):
LED Signals 004.JPG

LED Signals 017.JPG

The Diode kit $2.13

These two items were (much) less than half the price from Procycle.

OK, now to install:

Remove the right rear OEM turn signal stalk. It is necessary to extend the wires about 3 inches to connect to the OEM bullet connectors:
LED Signals 005.JPG

Remove the clear plastic sleeve, clip the bullet ends off the LED wires, solder the 3 " addition, add new bullet connectors, thread through the clear sleeve, and mate with the OEM female connectors. Move the sleeve and Zip tie like the original. Note: The bullet connectors on the new turn signals are smaller than the OEM ones. You could replace them, as I did, which may involve opening up the OEM female connectors, or splice in the middle and tighten the OEM females with a pair of needle nose pliers. (similar to what needs to be done later) Optional: Add some electrical tape to seal off the ends of the sleeve for added water protection.

The left rear new stalk has just enough length to fit without extension:
LED Signals 006.JPG
Squeeze the female connectors to get a tight fit. Add some electrical tape at the ends.

Check for continuity with the new flasher unit. Both rear turn signals should flash normally.

Front signals:

Remove the cowl and the headlight. Disconnect or let it hang.
LED Signals 008.JPG
Peel back the large plastic housing to get at the connectors. Remove first the left hand OEM signal wires and unbolt the stalk. The running lights are blue, permanently disconnected, the 12v positive is brown, and the ground is black.

LED Signals 009.JPG

Install the new LED stalks. The yellow wire will connect to the brown LH connector and the other yellow wire will connect to the green RH signal wire connector. The black ground wire will connect with the OEM black ground double connector. There is just enough length to use the new, smaller bullets if you squeeze the female OEM connectors. (CAREFULLY!)

LED Signals 015.JPG

The brown and green OEM females with the yellow new signal wires installed. Now test the installation: Either side turn signal will stay on instead of blink. Now for the diode installation.

First, unscrew the dash indicator lights plastic housing. Pull the wires and sleeve up gently to provide room to solder. Fish the rubber bottom down to expose the lamps. Put the black plastic housing aside.
LED Signals 018.JPG

The turn signal indicator lamp connections are on the right. The brown wire comes from the left signal hot wire, and the green wire comes from the right signal hot wire. Cut both about an inch from the bulb terminal to provide some room to solder. I salvaged those wires, which are heat sealed to the bottom of the sleeve by cutting them free and clipping them about an inch from the plastic connector in the wiring loom at the other end to use for the extensions of the red wires from the diode, thus maintaining color identity as much as I could. Seal the short ends of the green and brown wires to the connector. They are not used anymore. More in the second post.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The diode wiring:

mdk_diagram.jpg


View attachment 142521
The red wires from the diode soldered and heat shrunk to the salvaged brown and green wires from left and right signals....I did not remove them from the sleeve, just moved them up to solder, shrink tubed and then pulled back down through the sleeve with the diode.

View attachment 142529
The blue wire from the diode to the center conductor and the side terminal green wire soldered to the new black ground wire and both them and the diode pulled back into the sleeve.

View attachment 142537 d
The salvaged green and brown turn signal wires soldered to the red wires from the diode and pulled back down through the sleeve. It's hard to see, but the black ground wire is just to the right of them.
Now, all that is left is to add about 4" of black wire to the ground, then attach it to a ground. I chose to use the headlight ground, and one can flip open the back of the three prong connector and with careful use of a needle solder iron attach the black ground wire to it, or add an appropriate ring terminal and attach it to some other ground.

For the green and brown left and right signal wire extensions, clip off whatever is not needed, remove the yellow positive turn signal wires from the green and brown connectors, strip and tin about 3/8th s of the ends of your salvaged extensions of the red diode wires, push them up through the small bullets from the new stalks just a 1/16 of an inch, bend the tips a bit, squeeze the very tip of the bullet to hold them and re-insert the yellow positive wires into the respective brown (left) and green (right) OEM female connectors.

Before you button up the headlight, lamp housing, and cowl, test the signals....they should blink in tandem with the dash indicator light. If it is the neutral light that blinks, you have twisted the rubber lamp base a half turn in the process of soldering. It is also a good idea to test all bullet connections with a moderate push/pull. Due to the different size of bullets and sockets when using as much OEM stuff as possible, it may take few tries to get the female bullet connectors to grip tightly. Tuck all wires away carefully as you put the headlight back in.

Enjoy your new LED turn signals!

My install was identical to Trail Winder's post #3 in this thread: http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/24913-led-turn-signal-troubles-continue.html, without the other changes he did.

It is apparent that the instructions on Procycles website are not correct for late model TW's...ignore them. Save your money and get the flasher and diode kit from Superbrightleds.com.

For some reason, the second post would not embed the pics????

Rocky
 

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Very cool wright up. nicely done. But was it worth it the cost and trouble? Is it a tougher upgrade? I can't see much power savings with blinkers and running lights alone., and if you break one of these on the trail I don't see a simple cheap repair at any local auto parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Very cool wright up. nicely done. But was it worth it the cost and trouble? ....
For me, it was worth the $70. There are two reasons: Dumping the bike with the big OEM signals is quite likely to damage them, and two: I put both of my bikes in a tiny 5X8" covered trailer and the OEM signals hit parts of the BMW. :eek: If you bought the apparently identical signals online from whoever they would be $12 a pair, so total cost would be about $40. I spent 3 hours in the install, but I work VERY slowly.
 

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Something is going hay wire on me here. LED turn signals installed the same way, no running lights. Superbrightled is flasher installed and seems to be working. With the dash indicator unhooked the lights flash at normal rate and Work Great. I have installed diode kit per my understanding of diagram (brown and green from harness to red wires on diode, blue wire to brown wire from bulb and green wire from bulb grounded). Issue is the indicator is solid on with signals on or not, signals still flash correctly. Test light on circuit shows constant power on green wire from harness and flashing power in brown wire from harness with signal switch on or off. Did I miss something?
 

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Well after sleeping on it I decided to ignore the harness and wire hot leads from each turn signal through diodes to indicator. May have been what the write up was saying all along I just missed it and was looking for some guidance. Judging by the response or lack of, I may have upset you guys resurrecting an old thread or something. Sorry if that’s the case.
 

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Followed these instructions, everything went well and is working good.

My only question is, with the front led signals having only 2-leads, they don't run constantly on like the stocks.

Is there a way to make them do this?
 

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Well after sleeping on it I decided to ignore the harness and wire hot leads from each turn signal through diodes to indicator. May have been what the write up was saying all along I just missed it and was looking for some guidance. Judging by the response or lack of, I may have upset you guys resurrecting an old thread or something. Sorry if that’s the case.
Hey Krosen, no sweat!
Matter of fact I am doing this exact some mod later this week...now I'll be extra careful to avoid this pitfall.
Personally, I think it's a great idea to recycle the deep well of info we have here, when we can.

And double-thanks to you Mr. Squirrel for your super write-up...even an eelectical dweeb like me can understand it!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
....My only question is, with the front led signals having only 2-leads, they don't run constantly on like the stocks.

Is there a way to make them do this?
No. I suppose a really anal vehicle inspector in Kalifornia might call you on that, but we don't have inspections here. The advantage is that you have 2 amps less constant draw on the stator and battery.
 

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No. I suppose a really anal vehicle inspector in Kalifornia might call you on that, but we don't have inspections here. The advantage is that you have 2 amps less constant draw on the stator and battery.

Thanks. I'll put the stock signals on for inspection time, then change them back afterwards. :icon_thumbright:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't think you can do that after the LED mod and have them actually work as the stock ones did, because of the diode wiring.
 
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