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I thought I'd share this as I know many TW owners take pride in their bikes. I ride vintage mx and I'm always trying to make 30 year old junk look good. I've found PJ1 paint is the stuff to use for painting engine cases and exhaust. I believe they even make matching frame colors for bikes. I've just used satin black for hubs and engines and pipes. It goes on nice. Looks great. Dries fast. Holds up really well.
https://static.powersportsplace.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/PJI-16-ENG_ml.jpg

Just thought I'd pass it along
 

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I thought I'd share this as I know many TW owners take pride in their bikes. I ride vintage mx and I'm always trying to make 30 year old junk look good. I've found PJ1 paint is the stuff to use for painting engine cases and exhaust. I believe they even make matching frame colors for bikes. I've just used satin black for hubs and engines and pipes. It goes on nice. Looks great. Dries fast. Holds up really well.
https://static.powersportsplace.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/PJI-16-ENG_ml.jpg

Just thought I'd pass it along
Thanks for the info! Any reason I should not use this on the stock tw exhaust piece that's attached to the motor? And how might I prep the pipe before painting?


'13 TW200
AT
 

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I have painted mine both on and off the bike. I have prepped mine by using a wire brush first. Then I used a rust killer, Naval Jelly is what I used. After rinsing the rust killer off with water I used vinegar for the final wipe down. Once dried I painted away. I used 1000 degree barbeque pit paint. I have also used ceramic exhaust paint 1200 degrees. I don't remember the brands. It seems about every 3-5 years it has to be touched up at least.
 

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I've used PJ1 before on engine case parts and it is a really good product. Since a good paint job depends on what you do prep-wise you'll get the best professional results with the parts off the bike.

For extreme high heat areas like an exhaust system there is nothing like "KBS Xtreme". Their Primer is both a rust inhibiter and a metal conditioner and is of the etching type. Made to adhere tightly to metal but also a porous magnet for its paint coating. After the hard work (and it is hard) of sanding or wire-brushing everything both the Primer and Paint go on very easy. I did 2 coats of Primer with 24 hours between each coat and 2+ coats of paint, again 24 hours between. Most important part is "CURING" in high heat. Biggest mistake folks do (I have done myself) is not baking the paint on. Installing the exhaust and believing that the engine heat is going to do that for you is a mistake. You are actually slowly undoing all your hard work from within.
TW exhaust is so tiny that it should fit in any household oven. Set to 450 degrees and leave it for a couple hours. You'll be impressed by the results.

Lots of rust-bucket pieces on this exhaust system. TW's little system would be a breeze.
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Great product out of Indiana. There is a customer service number that I called on the side of the can. I had a "curing" question and someone actually answered that knew what they were talking about. From Indiana, not India. I kinda appreciated that.
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Elbow grease. You want good results there is no way around it. Also you don't really need to strip to the bare metal, just don't leave anything loose. And clean with acetone or paint thinner right away, get your first coat of Primer on.
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Parts Primed. It was all the smaller parts like the exhaust hangers that were the PITA to clean and prime/paint.
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Torpedos Primed.
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A lot of the high-heat paints out there mention curing on the side of their can (Like Rustoleum) as an "option". If you want long-term results that are equal if not better than factory cure your work no matter what product you end up using. That's what they do at the factory with the exception that they don't use a kitchen oven of course :)
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