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I changed my oil today in my 2017 TW. The filter that was in it was a metal cylinder type. I saw a post that referenced part # 5H0-13440-09-00. The picture of it was a metal pleated one..with the 4 holes.

Any opinions on metal versus the paper ones? Will the paper ones carry the same part number?

And where are you guys getting your filters from? Closest Yamaha dealer is an hour drive from me.
5H0-13440-09-00
Thanks
 

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I asked the question about how long before I change from my screen filter to paper filter and was told that the screen filter could be left in there forever and just keep cleaning it. I plan on keeping the screened filter in until I get no more metal shavings then I will go to paper filters. I was told that others have seen metal in the screen for about a thousand miles or less. Hope that helps. I should have added that I will get rid of the screen filters when I stop seeing bigger flakes in the oil.
 

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I buy mine from Amazon. The last filters I bought were metal K&N filters but I did find a problem with them, see thread below. The thread title is "I bought my last K&N oil filter". But honestly I'll still buy them but I will check to be sure the holes are open. As far as not seeing metal in your filter, I don't think you will ever see a metal free filter on oil changes. The first oil change I did on my 06 which had 2,400 miles on it when I bought it had metal. I was worried at the time but found out it was normal. I change my oil every 1,000-1,500 miles and wash out the metal in a gas bath. I joke that TWs shed metal like a dog sheds hair. I also have a 1988 TWs that sheds. :D


[video]http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/27497-i-bought-my-last-k-n-oil-filter.html[/video]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies. Think i will get a couple coming this way in case I booger one up.......er when I do it. Pretty inexpensive oil changes...one liter of oil.
I have learned so much from this site in a short amount of time.....appreciate all of the knowledge sharing! Hope i get the chance to give back ��
 

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The pleated metal filter and the original cylindrical fine screen filter do pretty much the same thing. The pleated type has more surface area, and therefore it could be argued that it wouldn't need cleaning so often. As to whether it will take out smaller particles, the jury is still out. I bought a pleated one 6 years ago as a spare and I still haven't taken it out of the box. My OEM fine screen one has 15,000 miles on it and is still in perfect condition, so I may never use the pleated one. I actually prefer the plain one since it's easier to see particles and easier to clean. Paper? I wouldn't dream of using a paper filter in this bike! I want to SEE all the particles. Speaking of which, the filter housing will trap some in its recesses and if you are as anal as I am you will use a Q-tip to mop them out. Sure, they are on the outside of the filter, but why leave ANY metal particles in the filter housing if it's that easy to get them out?

My metal disappeared at around 1,000 miles and now all I see is some carbon scum and an occasional tiny piece of metal. I clean the filter halfway between 1,500 mile oil changes just because it is so easy to do.

One great thing about cleaning the original filter indefinitely is that you will NEVER encounter the dreaded wrong filter cam meltdown. :p
 

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I wonder if any Mobil petrochemical engineers read these posts and scratch their heads at trying to figure out why after they spent so much time and investment developing a synthetic oil good for recommended 15,000 mile service intervals in complex engines with tight tolerances do we then toss that oil out after only a few hundred miles from our simple air cooled lose fitting 1950’s technology motorbikes.
My fleet of cages gets their Mobil One changed annually, none rarely seeing more than 8,000 miles over the coarse of a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks....i did change my oil at 25 miles..was surprised to see the amount of "shedded" metal flakes. I also didnt have a lot of confidence in the dealer having put the proper oil in there. (Wet clutch compatible). Especially given that the dealer overfilled the crankcase...sight glass was completely filled with oil. When I reduced the amount to the proper level..the bike started much much easier...extra drag on the crank trying to spin up to starting speed? Just thought that for the price of 1 liter of oil I would have peace of mind KNOWING what was in there. I probably am anal about oil. Will clean the filter and change the oil again soon when it becomes discolored. @ 100 miles? Can't hurt.

Was also surprised at the amount of grease the 2 zerks took and how low the water was in the battery. It was fun getting to know this bike a little better and doing some initial maintenance on it!
 

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Valveoline??? I wouldn't put that junk in my lawn mower. Ha JK. I have a matching blue funnel and proper funnel holder.
 

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Proper funnel? Good! No wonder Tweaker’s bike treats him so well. Try as I might I couldn’t pass him as we two boogied around up in the Sweetwaters. A nice bike even if it had a dead battery.
 

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Ya should have whooped that whippersnapper Fred!! :p
Proper funnel? Good! No wonder Tweaker’s bike treats him so well. Try as I might I couldn’t pass him as we two boogied around up in the Sweetwaters. A nice bike even if it had a dead battery.
 

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Easier said than done, even with a metal oil filter.
Mike’s a good rider, he must have a metal filter too.
Besides every time I got close his darn exhaust pipe would puff me in the face.:D
 
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