TW200 Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove

the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil......Average load.

None 516 pounds

WD-40 238 pounds

PB Blaster 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench 127 pounds

Kano Kroil 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. The home brew was better than

any commercial product in this one particular test.

I hope this will prove benefical to all forum members ------Scotsman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove

the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil......Average load.

None 516 pounds

WD-40 238 pounds

PB Blaster 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench 127 pounds

Kano Kroil 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. The home brew was better than

any commercial product in this one particular test.

I hope this will prove benefical to all forum members ------Scotsman
Maybe we should use WD41 (o: will acetone hurt painted parts ? I wonder how tri-flow would rate...OMM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Wow, thanks for that info. I use Kroil because it works the best of any that I've ever tried.



I guess I need to try ATF-Acetone next time for a comparison.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,046 Posts
I once had an old Johnson 35 h.p. outboard that was used in salt water. The 10 or so screws holding the exhaust cover on the side of the engine were corroded in place. I think the torque spec was something like 30 in. lbs. so they were never very tight but I snapped the head off one of the screws with a screw driver and the shaft part never budged. For a month I sprayed a little WD-40 on each of the screws and then to my surprise when I tried to unscrew them they all very easily came out. Even the broken shaft was little more than finger tight.



For me the moral was "give the oil time to work". Give it lots of time! My 2 cents worth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
^ If it's an o-ring chain, penetrating oil may penetrate past the seals and dissolve the interior lube.



For rust removal, you could try soaking it in undiluted white vinegar. It works, I've done it, but I've never tried it on a motorcycle chain. If the chain is bad enough that you may have to toss it, I guess you could try it. After it's dry follow up with lube of course.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
I'm a fan of Kroil myself. While it's expensive, they had a promotion going on on their website for two king cans (13 oz I think) for $10 shipped for businesses. My dad mows lawn for our local community center, so I put in "Lee's Lawn Mowing Services" and got the cans shipped to their house in about 4 days. Otherwise, each can is about $13-14 a piece. The same promotion might be going on yet.



Still, great stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
A thing I do to add penetration to the job is to "buzz" it with an engraver. Sometimes you can see the liquid being absorbed into the smaller joints. This is my answer to the ball-pein hammer I was given to peck away with as a kid. ---Greybeard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
^ I've had luck with compressed air pushing WD40 into threads.



I've used WD40 forever. I'll have to try some of the other stuff mentioned. I'd never heard of Kroil before this thread. I'd try it, but I'd have to order it. I've been looking lately but have not seen it on a shelf.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top