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after dumping my tdub for the first time " not a biggie" i noticed the left side of the bars are bent slightly back. not noticable by eye if i dont point it out but after riding for a bit it becomes noticable. here are my questions: will any 7/8" bars fit? are there certain length or height demensions i need to be aware of? i dont want to buy something that wont work with stock cable lengths. are there any good brands that have bars the same demension as stock? any and all input would be great!
 

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I believe any 7/8 inch atv or motorcycle handlebars will fit. The rise over stock should be kept to 2 inches or less with stock cable lengths. The width is probably a personal preference. With my atv bars I did have to drill a small hole to locate the right side switch assembly, which also determines the angle of the front brake lever. The atv bars I bought are made of steel and cost 25 dollars. Sorry I don't know brand names. They work great when I stand as I'm 6'3". Good luck.
 

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I got the Pro Taper seven eights ATV hi bars. You can trim the width, I cut them to the narrowest mark and they are probably an inch wider then the stock bars.
 

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I also did the ATV bars and love them for standing sections. Rather than drilling a hole for the lever angle, I just ground of the tab so I could adjust the lever angle for street or off road. The wall of the bars was much thicker so I had to get crafty gettin my bark busters on. Also with the rise my throttle cables are running under the bar rather than on top. The cables work just fine like that.



 

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Hey Dan,

I have a set of ATV high bend bars if you are interested in them. I will put them in my trailer and you can compare with the stock ones.
 

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I made the mistake of ordering the hi bend MOTORCYCLE bars

They are the same height as stock

Maybe 1-1.5 inches wider

I like the bend better

And the barkbuster brand handguard substructure fits well, but did not fit on the factory bars because of where the cross bar is

I filed down the alignment nubs on the back of the cutoff switch and throttle

They still tightened up to the bar and show no sign of rotating out of position
 

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Whatsa hurley, Qwerty?
 

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Whatsa hurley, Qwerty?
Fat tires like a TW, but no knobs. Usually quite efficient at converting dead dinosaurs to really cool noise. Usually either very shiny and showy with very low miles or kinda grubby and showing very low miles, but the odomoter's already rolled twice. Tend to make lots of interesting fireworks when ridden above walking speed on winding roads. Rumor has it that they are quite fast if you know how to ride them, but Santa Clause and the Easter Bunny are make believe, too. 52 of them are slower than one TW on 318 curves in 11 miles.
 

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Fat tires like a TW, but no knobs. Usually quite efficient at converting dead dinosaurs to really cool noise. Usually either very shiny and showy with very low miles or kinda grubby and showing very low miles, but the odomoter's already rolled twice. Tend to make lots of interesting fireworks when ridden above walking speed on winding roads. Rumor has it that they are quite fast if you know how to ride them, but Santa Clause and the Easter Bunny are make believe, too. 52 of them are slower than one TW on 318 curves in 11 miles.
Hmm!
 

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If you have a drum front brake there aren't any cable length issues. I too opted for ATV bars. Cost maybe $22. Higher and narrower than stock. For me it was a good move.
 

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Because I am 6'2" and have had back surgery, I needed to sit up straighter than where the stock bars put me. I added the ProTaper ATV high bars and am very pleased!. I then added Tusk bark busters and had a bit of a time getting them to fit. A friend machined and knurled a plug to press-fit with LocTite in the bar ends [the Tusk expander plug would not fit, too long] and I had to put as much as a 30° compound bend in the aluminum protector bars — but in the end everything seems great.



The riding position is a major improvement.
 

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Will any 7/8" bars fit? Are there certain length or height dimensions I need to be aware of [so stock cable lengths will work]? Are there any good brands that have bars the same dimension as stock?


I, too, have similar questions for my 2008.



My stock bars have a 7/8" O.D. (Outside Diameter). Are they aluminum or steel?

Also, my stock bars have a 19mm or 3/4" I.D. (Inside Diameter). This I.D. seems to be larger than most 7/8" bars, but is normal for 1" bars. Since it is the I.D. that will affect the fit of bar end inserts for handguards, should we buy inserts for 1" bars? What bar end inserts work with the stock bars?



Also, I've noticed that replies mention Pro Taper ATV High bars. The word "high" can be misleading. Some vendors refer to bars as "high bend" and others as "high rise." High Bend means the rider bends more than with Low Bend. High Rise means the rider bends less than with Low Rise. I presume the above replies refer to High Rise/Low Bend bars, correct?
 

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I, too, have similar questions for my 2008.



My stock bars have a 7/8" O.D. (Outside Diameter). Are they aluminum or steel?

Also, my stock bars have a 19mm or 3/4" I.D. (Inside Diameter). This I.D. seems to be larger than most 7/8" bars, but is normal for 1" bars. Since it is the I.D. that will affect the fit of bar end inserts for handguards, should we buy inserts for 1" bars? What bar end inserts work with the stock bars?



Also, I've noticed that replies mention Pro Taper ATV High bars. The word "high" can be misleading. Some vendors refer to bars as "high bend" and others as "high rise." High Bend means the rider bends more than with Low Bend. High Rise means the rider bends less than with Low Rise. I presume the above replies refer to High Rise/Low Bend bars, correct?


Stock bars are steel. As for the varying inside diameters of bars of different materials, every bar-end accessory I've ever installed had sufficient adjustment in the retention hardware to adapt to any bar of the specified outside diameter, no matter the wall thickness. The only exception was a set of bars I had custom bent for a XL350 for all out TT racing made of a solid 7/8-inch titanium/magnesium alloy. Those required drilling and tapping the ends to take the hand guard bolts.



You are wise to warn of the advertising hype. Pro-Taper bars were originally designed with a 1-inch or larger center section that tapered to 7/8-inch diameter for mounting controls. They allowed running the more common 7/8-inch controls on bikes originally equipped with 1-inch bars. Also, the larger diameter center section allowed adequate strength with thinner walls, saving an ounce or two in weight for competition bikes, at the added expense of remachining or replacing the mounts on the top triple. Fine, if you're shaving every fraction of an ounce of a supercrosser, not worth the money for anyone else. The tapered bars also provide vibration reducing benefits, but other options for that purpose are more cost efficient for most riders. I expect that Pro-Taper sells many times more straight 7/8-inch bars today than tapered bars. They make a good product, but other options exist that are significantly more cost effective.



If you want new bars, take your old bars off, wander around showrooms comparing them to those on the parts department wall and those installed on bikes and wheelers. With the stock bars to compare, you get a better idea of what the new ergos will be like.



I found an off-brand set of aluminum bars 2 inches taller but otherwise same bend as stock marked as ATV bars in an independent shop for $30. Couldn't be more pleased with them. Don't be thrown by brand names or if the bars are marked for a certain use. All 7/8-inch outside diameter bars will fit a TW's clamps, all TW controls fit a 7/8-inch outside diameter bar. Exclusive brand names and identifiers such as "ATV" and "MX" are advertising hype.



Bent bars can pften be straightened. If the bend is minor, take them off and straighten them. I've had good success sticking the bent end in a hitch reciever and pulling the free end for leverage. Eyeball on a flat surface to verify the adjustment. Repeat as necessary. Wrap a rag around where the bar contacts the reciever tube to prevent marring the surface.
 
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