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I have a 1998 TW and was wondering if anybody here has ever thought about or tried to install a 12v power source for random things like charging a phone or using a small tire pump? It seems easy but I wanted to get some feed back from maybe a person who has done it on one of these bad boys.
 

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I have some leads for a battery tender running to the tool compartment. I found a 12v socket adapter that plugs into those leads when i'm not charging that i ran up to the handle bars, and use it to charge my phone on long rides that i use the gps. Here's the links on amazon if you're interested.



http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-800-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1359408019&sr=8-9&keywords=battery+tender



http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=pd_sim_auto_9
 

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I picked up a 12v socket that you attach to handlebars. Haven't put it on yet but think it was only about $15 from cyclegear. I also have battery tender and slime compressor leads attached to battery posts and strapped to left side of frame. makes it easy to attach battery tender and compressor for airing up tires.
 

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FWIW, if you combine the typical 12v outlet wiring with the fuse and Battery Tender wiring you'll cut down on the clutter under your seat and at the battery terminals as well as the amount of wiring involved. The same fuse will cover the circuit when using either the Battery Tender leads or the outlet as a power source, OR when charging on a tender with only a single connection at the battery:



 

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done it. No problem at all. Wire however it makes sense to you. Just be sure you are fuse-protected! Most everything (phones, gps) only needs 5.7volts to charge. So long as your not planning on trying to run heated gear, the tire pump, or small blender, the wiring can be fairly light gauge. Try to have it switched with key as well. I came off the start relay, up to a combo unit that has 2 standard sockets and 2 USB sockets. Its mounted to the indicator housing with 3M tape. Ran a second, standard socket with weather cap, mounted to front rack. Power comes via the charge point for Battery Tender. Fused, constant power. No headlight draw as key can be left off. Hope this helps, TIM
 

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Tim, the OP indicated that he expected to run a compressor. Compressors run at higher amperages which increase as they heat up in use. Light gauge wire won't cut it. Run the entire socket circuit in #14 wire. Determine the max amp load of your compressor and fuse accordingly.



Some folks like to run 2 outlets. One fused for heavy loads such as compressors and heated gear and one fused much lighter in order to protect cellphones, chargers, GPS units and delicate electronics. These can be operated on much lighter #16 or #18 wire.
 

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The tiny slime compressor I got came with a fused pigtail wires that you attach to battery posts and other end you strap to frame for easy access. I like the zipped case the compressor comes in. After riding in the dirt, I take a break while little compressor airs my tires back up to 30 psi. Only weird thing I've noticed that if I don't unplug my power source to GPS it screws up my total miles and other info. I think the compressor runs the battery voltage too low which messes up GPS info. Engine still fires back up with electic crank fine. (of course I still have kicker just in case)
 
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