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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a special way to remove the float valve seat? I cant seem to get it to budge. Also the pilot jet? Bent the screwdriver tip i bought special for this task, so ill get that replaced. And what about the diaphram for the coaster enrichment, should i worry with inspecting this? I thought maybe there was a screen to clean behind the cover, First screw cam out easy. On the outer most screw, my screwdriver slipped and i stab my left hand going about an inch deep. all in all im enjoying getting this little bike back together.
 

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If I remember right, i'm pretty sure it is brass and you will destroy it taking it out. Best just order a new one. I think it all comes in a little kit with everything you need. I'm not at my computer or I would look it up.
 

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I grabbed the float valve seat firmly with pliers and wiggled in a twisting motion. If the pliers slip on the brass you are wiggling to much. As I did it it started moving / twisting back and forth. A little bit a first and then more. Eventually it came out. There is an o-ring on it and I bet it has swelled and it is locking it in place. That is what worked for me.
 

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Is there a special way to remove the float valve seat?....
Tony has the right technique. Use some penetrating oil before trying the removal.



If it's been in a long time, you are likely to damage the seat.



On one seat that was determined not to be removed, I used a screw extractor. There wasn't much left of the seat.



Last resort is to drill it out, carefully, using a drill press. Use a bit slightly smaller that the OD of the seat.



Replace with new seat and oring.



If you get the seat out without damage, you should replace the oring anyway. A dried out oring is one of the causes of fuel leaks.



If you have an old TW, you should check the diaphragm of the coaster circuit. If it's torn, or has a hole in it, you will have trouble tuning the carb.



Jb
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have ordered a net vlave seat so i will attempt the extracter method. I did use Deep Creep to help loosen the screws. This morning the screw for the diaphragm came out easy. So i prayed more Deep Creep on everything else hoping it will help.
 

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Wow, Timing is everything.....I had the leaking problem noted on another post so I ordered a needle and seat and float bowl gasket. I just finished removing the bowl and and float assembly and sure enough my seat is stuck in the carb body. I just sprayed some penetrating oil around the seat and while its soaking I thought I would ask for help here. And the newest post was my answer. Thanks to all.
 

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BINGO....Just like advertised, after soaking while reading the forum I went back and twisted the seat . Little by little I was able to turn the seat. After "worrying" it for a bit it broke loose, thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well after finding a screwdriver to fit inside the shaft of the pilot screw housing, and sitting all day after using more deep creep it came right out. The screwdriver that did it for me was a cheap .88 cent task force brand from Lowes. It was a 3/16 slotted tip that was no wider than the shaft. A screwdriver with a tip that doesnt have the "shoulders" of the tip where it transform from shank to blade is the key. For the float valve seat, i used a small locking angled tip pliers and wiggled it loose. And of course the o ring was flat as could be. So its all apart now awaiting for my parts and carb cleaning wire set to come in. I cant wait! Thanks again for all the help!!
 

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...and carb cleaning wire set to come in...
Be careful using the carb cleaning wires. They should be used gently to open a passageway or remove bits of crud from a jet.



If you use them to ream out parts, you may unwittingly enlarge a jet opening or cause a burr in a passageway. Both will cause you to have trouble tuning the engine.



Jb
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for reminding me about that. I think my pilot jet is pretty abused, so ill probably replace both the main and pilot with new jets. Im in south Alabama and i read a post, of Qwertys i believe that said , a 130 main, 2 flat washers and 2.5 turns on the pilot jet. So i figured i would start with this and see how it goes. Now to find a place that sells these......



edit..... the more i dig into this carb the more i find wrong with it......I think im going to bite the bullet and just get a whole new assembly...expensive yes, but worth it to me....plus no more aggrevation and stabbed hands.
 

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Follow up thoughts.......My old seat was fine but the o-ring was flat and was slowly dissolving Probably the source of continually having to clean jets. I used dental tools to clean the seat housing using carb cleaner as solvent . That process took as long as the R&R of the needle and seat. After reassembly it test drove great. Currently I am using a 130 main jet and no shims on the needle. No surging at this time, at least at sea level. Next test is .......Has my gas millage returned to normal? I was getting around 65mpg but it had dropped to high 40s before needle and seat replacement. Thanks again to all on this great forum.
 

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......

edit..... the more i dig into this carb the more i find wrong with it......I think im going to bite the bullet and just get a whole new assembly...expensive yes, but worth it to me....plus no more aggrevation and stabbed hands.
I don't think you mentioned what year your TW is. If it's a pre 2001 with the slide carb, you may want to consider changing to the newer CV carb.



However, you will also need to purchase the newer carb manifold joint and a newer air box boot.



Either way, check multiple online vendors. There is quite a difference in pricing.



Jb
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did think about changing but i have already purchsed the "stock" carb. I did so as this bike is new to me, i wanted to rule out as many variables as i could. I already see other tw's in my future.
 
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