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Discussion Starter #1
'92 that most of the time when hot will not start with electric starter.

Bike turns over fast but will not fire. When cold electric starter starts bike every time.

Starts first time with kick starter.



New battery, checked all grounds, etc.

I'm thinking maybe Ignition Circuit Cutoff Relay?
 

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'92 that most of the time when hot will not start with electric starter.

Bike turns over fast but will not fire. When cold electric starter starts bike every time.

Starts first time with kick starter.



New battery, checked all grounds, etc.

I'm thinking maybe Ignition Circuit Cutoff Relay?
You say MOST of the time. I think that might rule out a faulty relay. maybe not. Mine does the same. will start occassionaly when hot sometimes not. There are so many possibilities here that I just put up with it. Heat affects everything electrical in some way. everything will have more resistance. add to that the fact that heat will also affect compression,fuel mixture, preignition,the list goes on.
 

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This is sometimes a hard sell, but here goes:



Your starter isn't turning fast enough with the button.



A swift kick will turn the crank faster and generate more intial voltage to the capacitors than the starter motor ever will, which is why it starts with the kicker. (yet another case for a kick starter for those of you who aren't sold on it).



Check your main positive cable to the starter. The problem is often simply corrosion inside the ring terminal or the wire sheathing. If you have good battery voltage, good grounds and connections and the relay isn't arcing you'll need to get inside the starter itself to check the starter brushes and windings. The brushes wear short and their contact with the commutator can become glazed, worn or corroded, and oil can leak into the windings.



Oh, and if it turns out to be the starter relay do yourself a favor and don't replace it with a stocker. Get one with a higher amperage rating from at least a 500-class bike. Early TW relays were barely adequate. Post '01 TW relays are even worse. Replace them with an old school, high amp relay when they fail.



The relay is a no-brainer to check. Turn the key on and jump the fat terminals with at least a ten gauge wire or something like the points on a pair of needlnose pliers. If it starts the relay is arcing.
 

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'92 that most of the time when hot will not start with electric starter.

Bike turns over fast but will not fire.
I have this exact-same problem, and although it doesn't happen very often...this is how it plays out:

Driving along, come to a stop...bike sounds "strange" and stalls. When using the starter, it turns over very fast - as if the spark plug were removed - but it will NOT start.

This has only happened to me about 3 or 4 times in the 7+ years that I have owned it. First time, I changed the plug and that fixed it although swapping BACK to the original plug worked when I got back home, so that obviously wasn't the problem.

Second time, I changed the plug again...and it worked (again) but swapping back to the original plug also worked again.

The last time was a few months back...trail riding and I lugged her pretty badly to the point where she stalled and when I tried to re-start...same thing: no start, but turned over very fast! On this ocassion, I just got off the bike, had a drink and let her cool down for about 5 minutes, whereon she started up without a problem.

To this day, I still have no idea what causes this, or why it would crank the way it does when this happens...it's one of life's mysteries! Sufficed to say that it's been going on for a while but whatever it is has caused me no apparent ill-effects...and I just turned over 40,000 km.



If anyone has any theories, I'd be interested in hearing them...
 

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I was kind of amazed how much better mine starts after completing a tune-up recently. New spark plug, adjusted valves, cleaned air and oil filters, and new synthetic oil. As Lizrdbrth pointed out the starter can be such a drag, sometimes. When my current battery gives up I will spend a little extra to get a better battery, like the YTZ7S, or it's clone, with more cranking amps 'cause I do like that easy button. It's so nice, though, to be able to give it one easy kick and go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I'll take apart the starter this week and check it out. I've been through everyting else.

It has recently had a new plug, oil change, new air filter, carb rebuild, new battery, but I had the tank back on before I thought about the valves.

I'll do them this week as well.



I just replaced the steering head bearing with tapered rollers, flushed and refilled the forks, and installed TW203/204 tires.



Thsi bike was a barn find, it sat idle for ~18 years while it sat as part of a probate dispute. 1992 model and had never been licensed, 1245 miles and still had the MSO.
 

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I had the same problem and it turned out to be my regulator. I had a new battery in it and it would spin the starter, just not fast enough. The battery wasn't being charged while I was riding. A new regulator solved it for me.



I'm not saying to throw parts at it, but the regulator may be the culprit.



Taking apart the starter would be a good idea. New brushes should help. Make sure you mark the outside of the starter housing (the big cylindrical piece) so you get it back on the correct way.
 

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I have an 05 that's recently started to have this issue around 7k. I pulled the plug and it was only sparking when I first hit the button and maybe when I let it off. All the rest of the time I held it, I got no spark. I recently took a 1200 mile trip that got me up a few thousand feet over what I normally drive, and the bike got pretty rich, would these symptoms be indicative of a fouled out plug (it was pretty new before the trip, doesn't look too bad) or is this something else?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just read through another thread with the same issue.

He seems to have found the problems.

Key switch contacts.



I'm on vacation now but will try cleaning mine this upcoming weekend on mine.
 

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I have an 05 that's recently started to have this issue around 7k. I pulled the plug and it was only sparking when I first hit the button and maybe when I let it off. All the rest of the time I held it, I got no spark...
danwray, I had this exact same problem on my '05 TW.



A new ignition coil fixed it.



See the end of that same thread mentioned above:



http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/5336-hard-starting/



jb
 

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thanks man, I stumbled on that thread earlier and decided to order one of those amr coils. should be here Friday, hoping that does it for me.
 

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thanks man, I stumbled on that thread earlier and decided to order one of those amr coils. should be here Friday, hoping that does it for me.


I think that will solve your problem. We seem to have the identical problem on our 05 TW's.



The AMR coil is twice the price of a stock coil. I can't say it is any better, though AMR claims it is. I happened to have it left over from my son's TTR230.



I also am replacing the stock spark plug cap with an NGK cap. The stock cap was reading 8,000 ohms. A little high from the research I did. The NGK is rated at 5K ohms. I don't think this is a critical thing to do, but since I was at it...



(see other thread for pictures: http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/5336-hard-starting/ )



Also the stock cap is around $25.00 US. The NGK cap (VD05F) was $4. with $6. shipping from Bike Bandit.



I also suspected the plug wire, but since it's molded to the coil, there is no way to test it separately.



jb
 

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well the new coil came a day early so I put it on yesterday. seems to have fixed the problem, also idles better/more consistently. don't know if the Amr is that much better than a new stock coil, but it does look better made, and I can't argue with the fact that it worked. Thanks for the info man, made this a quick fix.
 

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...well the new coil came a day early so I put it on yesterday. seems to have fixed the problem,...






Thanks for the feedback.



jb
 
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