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Discussion Starter #1
Seems like this forum is little different from most other IRO the 'requirement' to post pics!:D

So then, after my intro (http://tw200forum.com/forum/general-discussion/14023-intro.html), herewith pics and the story so far ..... It was bought sight unseen (2 photos with the ad and spoke with the seller telephonically) The cost was roughly the equivalent of about $450 US. Like I said in the thread above, the price was in line with it's condition.

Although I've done a few things to the bike, this is pretty much how I got it a couple of days ago ....

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It started with the first kick after it was off-loaded on Wednesday, so that was a positive.

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Something that bothered me immediately was the 'bucking' when put into gear, but I'm told this is common with the TW and the problem goes as the bike warms up.
I didn't have the time to examine it properly and only took it for a ride the following day, and I picked up a couple more issues ... front suspension a little stiff for my liking, chain was too loose and noisy, brakes work fine but squeak (could be from standing for a long time) and the rear brake pedal was set far too high.

So yesterday I closed shop a bit early and had a look at the rear brake. The pedal was so high it was chafing against the motor.
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and because of the pedal angle, the link was touching the swing arm. Battled a bit with the pedal 'stop' adjustment because the bolt and locking nut were both very stiff and also there was no adjustment left at the arm on the drum. I had to release the link to adjust the pedal and that wing-nut was also stiff as hell and wouldn't even turn up further than the position it was at, so I got out the taps and dyes and cleaned up the threads.

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you've got a famed '95 rainbow warrior! not sure of the t-dub market in SA, but $450 for a complete and running bike is a steal. i look forward to see how your restore and refurb your new steed. congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Decided it would be prudent to do the chain adjustment at the same time before I completed sorting the brake ..... looks like there isn't too much stretch left in the chain.

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Nonetheless, set it to between 30mm and 40mm up / down slack as per the manual I downloaded, and gave it a light oiling since it was very dry. much better now and npt noisy.

Went back to the brakes and moved the arm at the drum inwards by 3 splines so that I could get enough adjustment. The pedal was now nice an level and the link was no longer in contact with the swing-arm either.

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I also noticed that the rear (passenger) RHS foot-rest was badly skew, so I removed the bracket and straightened it out.

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Looked at the other side and although not appearing to be skew it was fouling against the swing-arm, .....

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..... so straightened that out as well at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
you've got a famed '95 rainbow warrior! not sure of the t-dub market in SA, but $450 for a complete and running bike is a steal. i look forward to see how your restore and refurb your new steed. congrats!
Thanks Joe. Rainbow warrior, huh? I know it's a '95 model from the registration papers, but not sure it's that special .... beginning to think I bought a pig in a poke with all the issues I'm picking up - more about that later. I did notice this little emblem and wondered what it's significance is?

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Discussion Starter #5
P.S. The going price for a current new model is about or just under $4000 US over here.
 

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Thanks Joe. Rainbow warrior, huh? I know it's a '95 model from the registration papers, but not sure it's that special .... beginning to think I bought a pig in a poke with all the issues I'm picking up - more about that later. I did notice this little emblem and wondered what it's significance is?

View attachment 13785
notch in the bedpost with a canadian?

i have a '94 that started out as a rainbow warrior, but i decided i was past the color scheme. mel's got a stock one that is really clean and looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Discussion Starter #8
Anyway, to follow on from where I left off ..... but just before I do, is there any reason why I should try retain the bike's identity as a Rainbow Warrior when I rebuild?

Although I spoke with the seller and asked if there were any issue I should be aware of, and some things were disclosed, the following was not .....

Hole in the sprocket side cover of the motor

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Welded frame (and very poorly done at that)

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Broken off mountings for indicator lamps and tail light / registration plate / rear mudguard. The seller did say that the mudguard / tail light mounting was missing, but not that part of the framework was broken off. Looks like I've got a bit of welding repairs to be done.

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Filler cap broken - speedo cable missing (I was told that everything was there - the speedo unit and indicator lamps came separately packed in a box, as did only part of the 'dash lamp' unit).

IMG_0329.JPG IMG_0330.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also welded (crappy job) headlamp brackets.

View attachment 13791

Helmet lock not working - it was totally loose and rattling. Just tightened it for the time being.

View attachment 13792

Most of it isn't a biggie - just an unexpected surprise. The welded frame and sprocket cover hole could be an issue with getting a certificate of fitness / road worthiness, but I'm sure I'll get around that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Then the other things that I was made aware of ...

Handle bars twisted, the grips need replacing as does the front brake lever (will probably replace the clutch lever at the same time as well)

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And I'll have some wiring to sort out as well.

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There's also a cracked front mudguard, but I may be able to weld that plastic as well.

That more or less covers the bike's condition, which is such that it would be better to tear it down and start afresh, replacing and repairing as I go without getting too far beyond what would be a fair market related cost for a bike in this one's refurbished state. It doesn't have to be a show piece, just decent and reliable - don't want to feel guilty if I scratch it on a trail or in the bush while hunting.
 

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$450 here? I'd be all over it like a rash. Then I'd have to decide on fixxing or using all those parts for some projects i've been wanting to do. Use the engine to hot rod. Rear end for a mono wheel trailer. etc., etc.
 

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I think whimsical fans of the TW here stole Greenpeace's name of the "Rainbow Warrior" and gave it as a playful nickname for the very colorful 1995 model. Nothing formal or official in the nickname, just an affectionate label we often call them. Feel free to call your bike whatever suits you. When mine won't start I start calling it a variety of names.
Your bike is understandably a little rough given it's age. If you do not mind a non-stock look there are very reasonably priced rear brake,turn signal, running light, license plate combinations that might save you time and money compared to recreating stock brackets and light assemblies.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
...... If you do not mind a non-stock look there are very reasonably priced rear brake,turn signal, running light, license plate combinations that might save you time and money compared to recreating stock brackets and light assemblies.
Yeah, tend to agree with you - I already have some ideas in mind. It won't be stock once I'm done, but I won't wander too far off since it's the look of the stock bike that attracted me to it in the first place.
 

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Hey Mud Dog, not sure how I missed this.
Based on Durban, that price is good, even with the undisclosed issues.

There is a shop up here stripping a TW200 for spares: Tw200 in KwaZulu-Natal | Free Classifieds on Gumtree
I am not sure what their policy would be on shipping, but if you come to agreements on items you'd like, and they are unwilling, I can collect once you've paid them and ship them to you at your cost, although it should be reasonable with our indoor couriers.

Keep me posted if I can help with anything from my end. We also have a few dealers relatively near by up here, not sure what Yamaha is like down there in terms of representation.
The TW's are beat on pretty hard here in SA but they are generally so bullet proof that I think you should get yours running with some elbow grease, and you seem to be tackling stuff already.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi mate and thanks for the offer. If it's a company of sorts one has to be a bit wary before paying over any monies and arranging couriers is not a hassle. If it's a private individual one has to be extra vigilant and in that case might be better to have a representative in the area that can do the deal on my behalf, so I might just take you up on it. I have noticed the Gumtree thing with the stripping of TW's and it would seem that they are more prevalent up your way.

Yeah, I haven't really started with the project. At this point there are some things that need to be done before the final strip down to ensure that everything still fits and works, but finding the time is a bugger. I run my own business and for the next 2 months things are still going to be a bit too hectic to tackle it, besides the fact that I have no space in my workshops with the projects that are on the floor.

I'll get there though.:)
 

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Then the other things that I was made aware of ...

Handle bars twisted, the grips need replacing as does the front brake lever (will probably replace the clutch lever at the same time as well)

View attachment 13793 View attachment 13794 View attachment 13795

And I'll have some wiring to sort out as well.

View attachment 13796

There's also a cracked front mudguard, but I may be able to weld that plastic as well.

That more or less covers the bike's condition, which is such that it would be better to tear it down and start afresh, replacing and repairing as I go without getting too far beyond what would be a fair market related cost for a bike in this one's refurbished state. It doesn't have to be a show piece, just decent and reliable - don't want to feel guilty if I scratch it on a trail or in the bush while hunting.

I have a set of factory handlebars I will send to you for free so long as you cover shipping. They could use a shot of paint but are otherwise in great "straight" condition. Let me know.


Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Tom, that's awfully kind of you! Let me first see what I can source locally (we're kinda on opposite sides of the globe) but if I don't have any success I will take you up on the offer. Thanks again for the kind gesture.

Andy.
 

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Thanks Tom, that's awfully kind of you! Let me first see what I can source locally (we're kinda on opposite sides of the globe) but if I don't have any success I will take you up on the offer. Thanks again for the kind gesture.

Andy.
To sweeten the deal a bit I could also throw a like new chain guard in the box since your bike seems to be missing one;)



Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sheesh! You sure know how to twist a guy's arm, Tom!! LOL!

Yeah, it is missing a chain guard and I thought I might have to fabricate one seeing as it won't pass a COF here without it.

I'll PM you and we can get the details sorted. thanks a ton!!!
 

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Mud Dog,

Regarding the hole in your left side cover. I had the same issue on my bike. Your hole is quite a bit larger than mine was but I thought my two cents might come in handy as a jumping off point toward whatever solution you devise, so here's what I did.

In my case the chain had jumped or something and the hole had been made from the inside out and there were cracks going outward from the hole that looked like they might spread if I didn't address the problem immediately. My thinking was that this could possibly lead to an issue with the seal of the side cover with the motor. Whatever, point is I used a rotary tool to make that hole as round and smooth as possible and to chase the cracks down to their end points. Then I bought a rubber stopper and cut a fat ugly groove in it such that it would fit in the hole nice and tight with no threat of popping out. The result looks almost like it was meant to be. Nobody has ever inquired about it but if they do I have a pre-prepared line of bullshit to present them with that explains it away. " Oh, that? Yea that's just an access port for oiling the chain or removing the front sprocket":cool:

Here's some crappy photos.



 
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