[sfsccoter]

Just picked up a 2004 TW200 with only 600 miles on it. Didn't really take it through a decent test ride, but did notice a pulsing sensation through my foot on the rear brake pedal after I got it home and rode it around a bit more. Anyone have any idea what it could be? I know that it has been down before, but probably not at more than 10-20mph, based on the very light scuffing. I have owned a lot of other bikes and have never experienced this pulsing sensation before. Is something out of whack with the rear drum and, if so, how difficult is it to take it apart and have a look? Thanks.

 

[lizrdbrth]

Rusty drum, most likely. Take the rear wheel off, remove the backing plate and scuff off any rust you see in there. Could be a few other things but if the bike has been sitting that's the most likely.



You'll need to get in there then tell us what you see.

 

[Xracer]

Just a guess but perhaps the pad came loose from the shoe. I've seen it happen.

 

[peruano]

Usually folks address pulsing sensations from the rear with Preparation H. No itching and less need to lubricate the chain as often. BTW, pay attention to answers 1 and 2, and ignore this one. Tom

 

[sfsccoter]

Rusty drum, most likely. Take the rear wheel off, remove the backing plate and scuff off any rust you see in there. Could be a few other things but if the bike has been sitting that's the most likely.



You'll need to get in there then tell us what you see.

Thanks for the suggestion, makes sense since it has been sitting the majority of its' life. I don't have a stand or jack, so getting the rear wheel off will be a bit of a challenge. When I do get one, will I require a special type of socket to get the axle bolt off (all I have is a cheap set from Target)? Wish I had an impact wrench but no luck there either. Might be a silly question, but if I ride it for a while as is will the rust (assuming that's the issue) just get scraped away and make the pulsing disappear

? I know I should get in there asap, but it always takes me 4-5 times longer than what I think to get mechanical issues resolved and I can't devote that much time to it w/o putting it out of commission for a few days.

 

[sfsccoter]

Just a guess but perhaps the pad came loose from the shoe. I've seen it happen.

Hopefully I'll take it apart soon and diagnose what's going on. The rear brake does work, just not a comfortable feeling when using it. Thanks for the suggestion.



On a side note, it is completely stock so I need to the carb rework (jet, idle adjustment, rubber spacers/rings). It really does run very lean and makes it a real pain for those short trips where the bike hasn't even warmed up in the time it would take you to get to your destination a mile or 2 away. I have a Vino 125 for that purpose for now but will most likely sell it down the line so that the TW will be the only 2 wheeler in the stable.

 

[lizrdbrth]

Not difficult or time consuming.Support it on a milk crate er sumpin up under the skidplate. Remove the brake rod wingnut and spring and set aside.



Loosen the axle nut and push the wheel all the way forward. Lift the chain off the sprocket and lay it over the swingarm. Remove the axle nut, pull out the axle and slide the wheel out of the bike to the rear.



Lay the wheel over on the sproket side, lift out the brake assembly and take a look inside.



If the inside of the drum is rusted you can use your thumb on a small piece of 80 grit and lightly sand it off.



If it's anything other than that come back in here and describe it to us and we'll walk you through it.



Riding the rust away isn't the greatest plan. It'll grind your drum and shoes or hang around as dust, reducing your braking power.



Get the thing mechanically squared end-to-end away before you go dinking around with jetting and such. Odds are the carb needs a good cleaning before you can make any judgement about that.



You've got other wheels. Get on it

 

[sfsccoter]

Not difficult or time consuming.Support it on a milk crate er sumpin up under the skidplate. Remove the brake rod wingnut and spring and set aside.



Loosen the axle nut and push the wheel all the way forward. Lift the chain off the sprocket and lay it over the swingarm. Remove the axle nut, pull out the axle and slide the wheel out of the bike to the rear.



Lay the wheel over on the sproket side, lift out the brake assembly and take a look inside.



If the inside of the drum is rusted you can use your thumb on a small piece of 80 grit and lightly sand it off.



If it's anything other than that come back in here and describe it to us and we'll walk you through it.



Riding the rust away isn't the greatest plan. It'll grind your drum and shoes or hang around as dust, reducing your braking power.



Get the thing mechanically squared end-to-end away before you go dinking around with jetting and such. Odds are the carb needs a good cleaning before you can make any judgement about that.



You've got other wheels. Get on it

Thanks a bunch for the detailed directions, greatly appreciated. You're definitely right about getting this done before I mess with the carb. I test rode another one that sat most of its life before I bought this one. That particular one wouldn't idle properly w/o giving it plenty of gas. Would always die a second or two after letting go of the throttle. Had very low mileage too, lowlife seller kept on insisting that it was in mint condition but it looked like hell in addition to running like sh*t. Couldn't walk away fast enough. Pretty sure the one I bought is just running like it should in its stock state, i.e. very lean and cold blooded. I also have a DR200SE with the Kientech mods (jetted and pipe/airbox opened up) and it runs so much better than the TW. Feels like there is so much more torque. Hoping to get the TW to run as nicely as the DR200SE.

 

[Gerry]

As I move past 60, it almost seems to be a 'law of physics'; any task taken on by yourself, takes 4 times as long as was expected. What you save in money, you pay in time......... Gerry

 

[qwerty]

As I move past 60, it almost seems to be a 'law of physics'; any task taken on by yourself, takes 4 times as long as was expected. What you save in money, you pay in time......... Gerry

+1

 

[Xracer]

As I move past 60, it almost seems to be a 'law of physics'; any task taken on by yourself, takes 4 times as long as was expected. What you save in money, you pay in time......... Gerry

You also fall into the "Well as long as I'm here" trap. I've yet to find a way out of this hazzard.

 

[sfsccoter]

Was getting ready to take the rear wheel off to inspect the drum brake, but my cheap socket set is proving to be inadequate. Anyone know what size socket that the rear wheel axle nut takes? I've looked through the service manual for a few minutes, but can't find it. Biggest I have is 19MM

, looks to be about a 21 or 22MM. Thanks.

 

[TW-Brian]

The nut is 22mm. I just use a pair of adjustable, crescent wrenches when I remove the rear wheel.



Also, if your bike still has the original tool kit, there should be a 22mm wrench in there but it is pretty short and may not give you enough leverage to loosen the nut. You may be able to use it to hold the nut, while you use your socket wrench on the axle.

 

[sfsccoter]

The nut is 22mm. I just use a pair of adjustable, crescent wrenches when I remove the rear wheel.



Also, if your bike still has the original tool kit, there should be a 22mm wrench in there but it is pretty short and may not give you enough leverage to loosen the nut. You may be able to use it to hold the nut, while you use your socket wrench on the axle.

Thanks, might actually have an adjustable crescent wrench lying around. I have the original tool kit too, will look for the 22mm wrench also.





Update: Got the wheel off (using a crescent wrench and a pipe/breaker bar) and took the drum apart. Other than some dust, it was in perfect shape inside. Drums shoes were evenly worn all around. Cleaned out the dust and sprayed some brake cleaner inside along the metal surface where the brake shoes contact the lining. I did notice some grease in there, so hopefully that was the culprit. The shoes felt fairly smooth, should they have a rougher texture? Anything else to look for? Haven't put the wheel back on yet.

 

[qwerty]

If the friction surfaces of the shoes are shiny hit them gently with a piece of sandpaper.

 

[sfsccoter]

If the friction surfaces of the shoes are shiny hit them gently with a piece of sandpaper.

qwerty,

Drat, got your answer after I put the wheel back on (had an assistant, virtually impossible for me to do on my own). I thought about sanding it down, but wanted a 2'nd opinion first. Oh well, guess I'll have to take it off again. BTW, how do I align the chain adjusters on each end? I wasn't paying attention to them when I took the axle off. I looked at the service manual but couldn't find the answer. Thanks for all of your help.

 

[lizrdbrth]

Sand it just enough to remove the "glazed" shiny parts.

 

[qwerty]

Chain instructions are pages 6-21 to 6-23 in the owner manual.

 

[sfsccoter]

Sand it just enough to remove the "glazed" shiny parts.

Thanks, managed to sand the shiny parts down a bit. Haven't had a chance to go out for a test ride yet, will report back tomorrow.

Chain instructions are pages 6-21 to 6-23 in the owner manual.

Managed to get the wheel & chain adjusters on back properly. Thank heavens for this forum and its great members.

 

[sfsccoter]

Another update: took it out for an extended ride. Rear brake still doesn't feel right. The pulsing is gone, but there is very little stopping power. I have to push down pretty hard for it to work properly and it just squeals at maximum pressure on the pedal. I think I'm going to have to go back in and give the shoes & drum a good sanding. The 1'st time in I did a very very light scuffing, not really knowing what I was doing

. I'm almost certain I did an inadequate sanding job. On the other hand, the rear brake should work fine when you ride it off the showroom floor right? Well, at least the pulsing is gone.