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We'll I managed to kill my carb by letting the bike sit for 6+ months with gas in the lines over this last summer. I know ...... stupid. I've pulled the carburetor off the bike three times trying to resurrect it to no avail. Its leaking gas now and when I look online for a "rebuild" kit the cost is comparable with the $40 to $60 dollar Chinese complete carburetors that I'm seeing on Amazon and E Bay. Have any of you direct experience in using these aftermarket complete carburetors? For the price it seems like a no brainer for the cost to try one. Please let me know what your experiences have been. Thanks in advance. Steve
 

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If you read some of the numerous threads regarding these carburetors you will see that there is more required expenses for the conversion than just the carb. New throttle assembly with start/kill buttons, throttle cable, modified carb manifolding, possible jetting issues, etc should be planned for. Use SEARCH feature to learn details.
 

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We'll I managed to kill my carb by letting the bike sit for 6+ months with gas in the lines over this last summer. I know ...... stupid. I've pulled the carburetor off the bike three times trying to resurrect it to no avail. Its leaking gas now and when I look online for a "rebuild" kit the cost is comparable with the $40 to $60 dollar Chinese complete carburetors that I'm seeing on Amazon and E Bay. Have any of you direct experience in using these aftermarket complete carburetors? For the price it seems like a no brainer for the cost to try one. Please let me know what your experiences have been. Thanks in advance. Steve
Search my posts to get the details about the one I used. I bought mine, refitted it with my jets, used their needle (with grooves!) and adapted their cable bracket to use my cable. So far it has been the best Mod I've done.

The carb is as an exact duplication of the stocker as possible. Even unused casting marks are there. I think someone with patience (not me!) could figure out how to swap the throttle bracket without damaging the new carb. I resorted to bending the new bracket to work.

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Thanks BuddyMack for the quick response. In looking at your past posts it looks like you got our carb from Zoom Parts. Is that correct?
 

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Thanks BuddyMack for the quick response. In looking at your past posts it looks like you got our carb from Zoom Parts. Is that correct?
Yep, just found them on eBay. Works really well too.

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If you’re replacing an old style (pre 2001) with the TK clone you’ll definitely need a new boot for the intake side. I was able to reuse the boot on the engine side. I got mine on Amazon for 34 bucks with free two day shipping for my 89. The hardest part was getting the old intake boot out of the airbox. Throttle cable routing was fiddly but worked out great. I didn’t need to run new cables. I’ve run about 300 miles with it and it works real nice. It burps a bit as your coming off throttle. I still need to play with the air/fuel mixture screw. I think it was set at 3 turns out on delivery and I set it to 2.5 before I installed it.

Best 34 bucks I’ve spent in a long time. My choke was stuck closed after gas sat for 5 years. I’m sure I’ll use parts off the old one from time to time for my 96.
 

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Thanks BuddyMack for the quick response. In looking at your past posts it looks like you got our carb from Zoom Parts. Is that correct?
Zoom Zoom went onto my 2002 with 33k miles, so new style to new style.

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IMO,if you buy a rebuild kit and a float and super-clean(clean,degrease and/or ultra-sonic clean) the rest of the carb it's like you have a brand new oem carb,better than a clone and at about the same price.
 

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We'll I managed to kill my carb by letting the bike sit for 6+ months with gas in the lines over this last summer. I know ...... stupid. I've pulled the carburetor off the bike three times trying to resurrect it to no avail. Its leaking gas now and when I look online for a "rebuild" kit the cost is comparable with the $40 to $60 dollar Chinese complete carburetors that I'm seeing on Amazon and E Bay. Have any of you direct experience in using these aftermarket complete carburetors? For the price it seems like a no brainer for the cost to try one. Please let me know what your experiences have been. Thanks in advance. Steve
NOT DEAD! I suspect you may have paralyzed but did not Kill your carb. This is where the fun begins and if you source the correct rebuild parts and completely dismantle and clean the body you should be able to get the stock carb back to good as new. Face a few facts in this process. If the carb was working fine before being improperly stored the chances are there is no need to be replacing the jets and most other brass parts, just clean them good. Under the tab of the float you will find a needle valve and seat and under that there is a very fine screen which is the usual suspect. Replace that and be absolutely careful when removing the pin holding the float. There is an arrow on the bottom of one of the posts pointing the direction to push the pin out. These carbs are fairly basic and if you pay attention while taking it apart and carefully reassemble it it should be fine. Search for threads by JBfla who has shown numerous photos and practically rebuilt these carbs in his threads for us. Barrymans carb cleaner comes in 1 gallon paint cans at the auto store. Remove everything from the body and drop the body in the can and leave it there to soak for a few days. Soak the brass parts in a separate bowl as well. Do Not soak any plastic or rubber parts or O rings. Blow it out with compressed air making sure it is dry and the air went through all the tiny orifices. You can also poke thin wires through some of them. I doubt, if the carb was working there is anything wrong with the main jet or needle unless you can see visible corrosion on or in it after it has soaked.
You should completely clean the fuel tank and the petcock while the carb soaks.

GaryL
 

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As Gary says the fine mesh screen above the float valve's seat can get clogged. Clogging frequency seems related to ethanol content and time the fuel mix sits in the tank.
One can delete this screen and replace it with an inline fuel filter external to the carb in order to maintain some secondary fuel filtration in addition to the petcock filters. An external secondary filter is also very much easier to inspect and replace when necessary. Plus it's additional surface area is more tolerant of gummy deposit build-ups thus reducing frequency of fuel flow issues.
 

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I agree with GaryL and Fred. You do not need a new carb. Sitting 6 months does not kill a carb - you just need to find out where the blockage is.

Here in the cold, northeast, it is not unusual for a bike, ATV or boat to sit 6 months without being ridden. I have never experienced a problem like that that some Sea Foam wouldn't cure or prevent.
 

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I agree with GaryL and Fred. You do not need a new carb. Sitting 6 months does not kill a carb - you just need to find out where the blockage is.

Here in the cold, northeast, it is not unusual for a bike, ATV or boat to sit 6 months without being ridden. I have never experienced a problem like that that some Sea Foam wouldn't cure or prevent.
I am a firm believer in Sea Foam but it can't fix all the possible carb issues. That tiny screen above the float valve is a constant source of headaches and clogs easily if you use E gas and leave is sit for very long. The OP mentions his carb is now leaking. That could be one of two issues. Either the float valve is stuck open and not shutting the fuel flow off or the rubber O ring on the float bowl is bad or not seated properly. Easy to ID the issue. If the fuel is going out the overflow tube the valve is stuck. If it leaks around the base of the bowl the O ring gasket is the problem.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you all for the great advice. I’ll give it another go ag opening up the carb before I go aftermarket. Thanks again.
 
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