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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
During my CDI testing and diagnosis, somehow I managed to bust the kickstarter on my TW. The splined shaft from the motor was fine, but the cast kicker busted right where it comes out of the hollow portion that slides on the splines. Must have had my spinach that morning.



I needed the kicker due to dead battery (pushed the bike home) -- But also did not want it permanently in the "out" position so as to spear my leg or something in a crash...



Here was my quick(10min) and cheap($0) fix:













I took a piece of pipe and cut it to like 3.5-4" long and then smashed it oval with a hammer. hit it with the grinder to make it fit "just right" on what was left of the kicker still on the splines and burn that sucker in. The other end of the kicker that busted off just drops right in and you are good to start the bike. Take it out and put it in the tailbag after starting the bike.





Some may find my methods barbarian, but perhaps they are just utilitarian?



Whatcha got? My budget is less than shoe-string and love to see what others have come up with
 

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I have replaced Philips screws here and there with Allen or Torx. The ones that matter to me are the four on the bottom of the float bowl, so I can pull it off and get to the jets in moments. Also, the studs on the exhaust where it couples to the head, the one in the muffler (up the little hole underneath)and the three bolts that hold the stator on to the flywheel. Most or all of these were replaced because they refused to come with standard methods, and the exhaust had to be drilled and re-tapped. In addition, I replaced the fuse holder with one that takes 15-amp mini blade- type fuses like my van when I found out it took Yamaha, not buss type. When my flasher relay went out, I found that Yamaha wanted thirty bucks for their rectangular one; discount auto usa had a universal round one with the same three prongs for $2.99, which meant I had to tape up a holder out of site where the other had been. It is a Tridon 552, DOT should it matter. I also have two thrust washers in my kick starter to reduce shaft end play.

Two items from the old forum I appreciate and don't know who to credit-- a 3/4" copper street 45 over the end of the tail pipe, and the extension groove on the high beam switch that shuts off the headlight for all those times the other guy isn't there to need it.

I estimate all of the above cost about what the OEM relay would have. GB
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes by hit it with the grinder to make it fit right, I mean that the pipe was essentially notched out to fit over what was left.



I can take more detailed pics if you want, but this was more a product of needing to get something done quick rather than wait for parts. I much prefer the nonbroken kickstarter and have one on the way
 

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You want cheap? Hit your thrift store for your rack pack. Here is my overnighter (basically a roller bag clamped onto the stock rack with ubolts through the struts that formerly supported the handle and wheels. Total cost $1.



My tank bag, now that was cheaper in being a cd case from logic tech. Same thrift store (probably 50 cents).



But the most extravagant luggage was the Halliburton Camera Case which I use most of the time on the rear rack. Cost $2 at the local St. Vincent dePaul store. It locks, is relatively water and dust proof (had I not drilled holes in the bottom it would have been totally waterproof). I guess my cheapest innovation was the brake pedal buildup from an old industrial mat. Free and definitely an improvement in raising the brake a bit to compensate for an ankle that is not as flexible as it used to be.


I don't need to show you a picture of my kick starter robbed off of a parts bike that was given to me. It has saved me from walking several times (cheap but priceless!). Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Very cool. I have some $4 each 'east german bread bags' from cheaper than dirt for sidebags. They are waterproof and were very close to the dimensions of the 'dirt bagz' soft bags people spend lotsa money on
 

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A thread after my own Scots heart. The 35w headlight bulb in mine cost nearly $50 from Yamaha and is a special order. The common 55w HW costs less than $2 but will eventually run your battery down when working at low revs. Solution was a less than $2 toggle switch mounted onto the plastic around the headlight so it can be turned off when pottering around or even off road and not needed.



I got an 35w HID Xenon kit the other day less than the 35w bulb, but it does not work properly so is going back. Until then the less than $4 fix is fine.



Malcolm
 
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