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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got done putting together what I think will be a useful quick disconnect. The supplies used are:

1. Handle 26.5mm thick (1)
2. Metric 6mm nut (1)
3. Aluminum Spacer 6mm ID x 40mm (1)
4. Screw 6mm x 70mm (1)
5. Locking Collar 6mm ID x 8mm thick (1)

It works and for Aprox $8 at the hardware store.

pictures attached.
217574
217575
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don’t believe it will but you can always shorten the spacer and/or the screw. As you can see from the pic
 

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I always kinda wondered if you could loc-tite a stud in the seat and just put a wing nut and washer on it from the bottom, or just buy an M6x1.0 Wing Bolt, I know that's gotta be a thing from a fastener place.
 

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edit* But I do suppose it'd be hard to reach up in there the way those frame mount ears are...
 

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I always kinda wondered if you could loc-tite a stud in the seat and just put a wing nut and washer on it from the bottom, or just buy an M6x1.0 Wing Bolt, I know that's gotta be a thing from a fastener place.
My '17 I bought recently has bolts/studs in the seat, and you just screw on the 10mm flange nut.
 
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2- 2" M6 bolt with the heads cutoff threaded into the seat pan, no nuts,clips, pins, or locktite, easy on easy off. Almost 3k on that setup with no issues.
 

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Just got done putting together what I think will be a useful quick disconnect. The supplies used are:

1. Handle 26.5mm thick (1)
2. Metric 6mm nut (1)
3. Aluminum Spacer 6mm ID x 40mm (1)
4. Screw 6mm x 70mm (1)
5. Locking Collar 6mm ID x 8mm thick (1)

It works and for Aprox $8 at the hardware store.

pictures attached. View attachment 217574 View attachment 217575
I hade some made from scrap surgical stainless steel by my friends late father
See post quick release seat bolts from feb 01 2020 # 53 by raffles , same idea , anything is better than the standard fit
 

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Would hand tight wing nuts be good enough for rear cargo racks? ( manrack)
Speaking of the Manrack......sure it would. I'd add some Blue lock-tite to them.

Clearance could be an issue when installing the seat though.
 

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Dang! The underside of that bike sure is clean. You need to go off road more!
About 10 years ago I made a similar set up with bolts, nuts, washers and Loctite to hold it together -- NOT to hold it screwed into the seat -- and I am still using them today.
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Tread Wood Hand tool Product Household hardware Tool Bicycle part
 

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2012 TW200, 1988 DT50, 2002 ZRX1200
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I’ve been thinking of getting a 10 mm nut driver to keep under the side cover with the tool kit. Ideally I would find a quarter inch drive shaft that would fit into the tool kit screwdriver. Then a 10 mm quarter drive socket to put on that. Just to keep it compact to fit in the tool kit.
 

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I pack a 1/4" ratchet along with several sockets in my tool tube. I use an extended 10mm which easily allows me to reach under the bike, find each bolt with my fingertip, and remove them. But, I have to say, I like that studs and wingnut idea very much!
 

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So far I haven't dealt with the rather frustrating seat bolt situation. Personally I don't want to carry any more tools than I can help it. Besides which, often when you want to get under your seat you don't want to take the time to futz around digging out wrenches to unbolt the bleeding thing. I like a latch and hinge system that a lot of bikes have but I'm not into designing one. Maybe Yamaha will read this and upgrade our seat for us. I won't hold my breath.

I haven't tried this idea yet but I've been thinking about using a 2" stud with a nut screwed onto it to 3/4" or so - the length of the original equipment.

I'll then take about 3" of heavy neoprene gas line, push it over the protruding end of the stud (1 1/2" in length.)

With a small screw clamp, I'll clamp it tight onto the stud.

Once done, to affix your seat you simply tighten this stud with the gas line on it hand tight. The gas line allows you to grab onto it firmly and tighten it enough the stud and your seat won't come loose while riding.

When you are out riding, if you should bounce hard enough on the rear suspension it will merely bend over the hose if it gets that close to your rear tire - no harm done, nothing breaks etc.

Coversely, o access your seat you can simply reach under your fender, firmly grab the gas line and unscrew the stud with hand pressure. Voila, seat stays on securely and no tools needed.

Do you think it will work OK?
 

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I use this setup. Longer bolt that's half threaded, then tighten down a jam nut at the end of the threads. I still need a tool to tighten it down or loosen it, but it makes threading it into the seat a lot easier. Once again, it's an idea I got from this forum.
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As I said in my last, my thought was to cut the head off that bolt, push on some thick neoprene gas line over that stud, maybe 3" long so you can get a good grip on it, secure it on the stud with a hose clamp, and you have a flexible screw driver handle with which to install and remove the seat without digging out your tools. Just my $.25, your idea is good too if you don't mind the need for tools.
 
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