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Discussion Starter #1
What do you guys know about the emulators and springs? Has anyone here purchased either or both from procycle?

I recently purchased the procycle 19kg
red heavy duty spring for the rear shock and it feels great at slow speeds and high, but the forks bug me more than ever. I've raised the level to 125mm and it's still not good enough. With this new rear spring the bike feels like an actual dirt bike now and I want the front to be just as capable.

So I've been researching and watching videos on the emulators for a while but I'm not sure I understand the install all that well. On procycle they claim the emulators simply sit on top and are held in by the main spring making it a simple install. When I watch race tech's video they show the damping rod holes being drilled larger. Has anyone here installed them?

Also for the fork springs, can you post which ones you bought and your weight and how they feel?
 

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I am no expert but here is my experience though it is not on the TW. I have a 1986 (YX600). The forks were really spongy, worse than the TW. I would go around a corner and couldn't hold a line. I ordered a pair of FZ600 forks which had factory emulators. My fork tubes ended up being in better shape so I Frankensteined them. I ended up with the emulators and FZ springs in the radian forks. I can now pick a line through a corner and hold it. I can change position in a corner and have complete control. I have no idea how to adjust them. Mine have to come out of the forks for adjustment. They are still set as I got them. Listen to others about TW results before making up your mind. I think I need the rear spring like you got, mine seems awful soft.
 

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I replaced my steel fork preloads with PVC pipe. I started with 3/4" longer than stock and it was too stiff. I cut it back to 1/2" longer than the stock preloads and it works well for me. I Weigh about 210....You might try 3/4" before you buy new springs but I think you are right on the cusp of needing new springs at your weight....
 

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Not sure how they compare to emulators, but I recently changed out my fork springs for Hyperpro progressive springs along with a Procycle white (15 kg) rear spring. I just have one desert ride since, but it was a noticeable difference, especially in whoops.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I replaced my steel fork preloads with PVC pipe. I started with 3/4" longer than stock and it was too stiff. I cut it back to 1/2" longer than the stock preloads and it works well for me. I Weigh about 210....You might try 3/4" before you buy new springs but I think you are right on the cusp of needing new springs at your weight....
Good advice, I'm going to look into this first. Thanks!


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Yes buy stiffer fork springs and emulators to make the TW front suspension much better than it is. To install emulators, you must remove the damper rods from your forks, drill out the existing compression dampening holes to a larger diameter as well as drilling an additional set of holes. Reinstall. The emulator sits on top of the damper rod inside of the fork. The fork spring goes on top of it to hold it down tight. The emulator does not drop in on top of the spring. To get the emulators adjusted correctly for you will take some time and testing to get it right. I'm sure that if this is done, the results will be well worth the effort.

Why do I need to drill holes? Because the damper rod and the holes in it are what the oil flows in and out of now controlling your dampening action, and you are drilling out the holes to allow oil to pass by unrestricted, because now the damper rod won't be controlling oil flow anymore, the emulator will. The Emulator is basically a valve body set up to "emulate" the function of cartridge forks in a damper forks system like the TW's. Why do I need to spend time adjusting? The downside of now having adjustment, is doing the adjustments! The emulator is generically set up for the fork diameter, so you'll need to adjust it for your bike, you and your riding style since the emulator now IS your front suspension, to see it's benefits you'll need to spend some time in tuning it.

Funny you should post about this now, as I am expecting my order of suspension parts tomorrow. I have done extensive searching and reading on the forum about suspension. There is not much information about emulators. I found this post helpful from jb882... http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/15481-checking-fork-oil-setting-sag-3.html#post194014. I know that Rhodetrip has installed a couple of sets of emulator in a couple of his bikes, and he raves about the results. A few others have as well, they all seem satisfied with the purchase and improvement.

I have also purchased and began reading "Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible" You may have seen it for sale on Procycle's site. I bought the Kindle version on Amazon for $13. Link to both Kindle and print versions on Amazon: http://amzn.to/2m720XG The book is totally worth it!

The bottom line is that this bike was built for a 140 lb. Japanese man. Most Americans are more substantial than that, and I and others double it. So, clearly the suspension is not set up for me. I will be doing the full meal deal on both front and rear suspension in the near future. I'm sure that I'll put up a detailed thread, and I'll try to get video of most of it too.
 

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I'd just like to compliment you Larry. You've posted up a few really nice write ups lately!! :D Nice job!!

Yes buy stiffer fork springs and emulators to make the TW front suspension much better than it is. To install emulators, you must remove the damper rods from your forks, drill out the existing compression dampening holes to a larger diameter as well as drilling an additional set of holes. Reinstall. The emulator sits on top of the damper rod inside of the fork. The fork spring goes on top of it to hold it down tight. The emulator does not drop in on top of the spring. To get the emulators adjusted correctly for you will take much time and testing to get it right. I'm sure that if this is done, the results will be well worth the effort.

Why do I need to drill holes? Because the damper rod and the holes in it are what the oil flows in and out of now controlling your dampening action, and you are drilling out the holes to allow oil to pass by unrestricted, because now the damper rod won't be controlling oil flow anymore, the emulator will. The Emulator is basically a valve body set up to "emulate" the function of cartridge forks in a damper forks system like the TW's. Why do I need to spend so much time adjusting? The downside of now having adjustment, is doing the adjustments! The emulator is generically set up for the fork diameter, so you'll need to adjust it for your bike, you and your riding style since the emulator now IS your front suspension, to see it's benefits you'll need to spend some time in tuning it.

Funny you should post about this now, as I am expecting my order of suspension parts tomorrow. I have done extensive searching and reading on the forum about suspension. There is not much information. I found this post helpful from jb882... http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/15481-checking-fork-oil-setting-sag-3.html#post194014. I know that Rhodetrip has installed a couple of sets of emulator in a couple of his bikes, and he raves about the results. A few others have as well, they all seem satisfied with the purchase and improvement.

I have also purchased and began reading "Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible" You may have seen it for sale on Procycle's site. I bought the Kindle version on Amazon for $13. Link to both Kindle and print versions on Amazon: http://amzn.to/2m720XG The book is totally worth it!

The bottom line is that this bike was built for a 140 lb. Japanese man. Most Americans are more substantial than that, and I and others double it. So, clearly the suspension is not set up for me. I will be doing the full meal deal on both front and rear suspension in the near future. I'm sure that I'll put up a detailed thread, and I'll try to get video of most of it too.
 

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I have them as well on both of my dubs and one of the best mods i have done. lrppcer nailed it on how the install goes, you will need to completely dismantle the forks to remove the damping rods and drill out the compression holes.

As far as adjustments go i would try them right out of the box and see how they feel to you. One my girlfriends TW i installed them straight up with the 60kgmm springs and it was like the two parts were made for each other. The damping was spot on in my opinion and the bike was very comfortable, feels and rides great. I have the heavier springs on mine and i needed to play with them a little, i ended up adding more compression damping with one of the heavier springs that are included and also drilled out one of the low speed holes on them to get it where i liked it. I honestly think you need to put them in and try them for a while before you make any changes and since riding terrain and styles vary widely what works for one may not work for you.

btw, i would also order the fork solution kit vs buying the parts separately. I know its 20 bucks more but it comes with a new set of seals and oil. those two items are more than 20 bucks to buy so you are saving a few in the end. Since you have to tear down the forks anyway seals are a good idea and oil is a must.
 

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JB thanks, what weight "range" for your GF's bike. Both my wife and I are @165.

Ditto what LT said thanks Larry great posts.
 

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JB thanks, what weight "range" for your GF's bike. Both my wife and I are @165.

Ditto what LT said thanks Larry great posts.
~135 but i resprung it because we sometimes have some weight on the bikes and plan to do more long travel loaded with camping gear. For her unloaded its a little oversprung but with 25# of stuff on the bike its perfect. I did both the forks and rear spring from Pro Cycle.

Im up over 200# and i run the heavy springs form Pro Cycle. For me they are great but a little stiff on the road, she says mine is like having no suspension at all when she has ridden it. For me her bike is perfect on the road, it rides like buttery smooth. If i was building a street only TW it would have the lighter set from Pro Cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have them as well on both of my dubs and one of the best mods i have done. lrppcer nailed it on how the install goes, you will need to completely dismantle the forks to remove the damping rods and drill out the compression holes.

As far as adjustments go i would try them right out of the box and see how they feel to you. One my girlfriends TW i installed them straight up with the 60kgmm springs and it was like the two parts were made for each other. The damping was spot on in my opinion and the bike was very comfortable, feels and rides great. I have the heavier springs on mine and i needed to play with them a little, i ended up adding more compression damping with one of the heavier springs that are included and also drilled out one of the low speed holes on them to get it where i liked it. I honestly think you need to put them in and try them for a while before you make any changes and since riding terrain and styles vary widely what works for one may not work for you.

btw, i would also order the fork solution kit vs buying the parts separately. I know its 20 bucks more but it comes with a new set of seals and oil. those two items are more than 20 bucks to buy so you are saving a few in the end. Since you have to tear down the forks anyway seals are a good idea and oil is a must.
So how big do you drill the holes, and do you have to drill additional holes? Also do you need any special tools to tear down or build the forks back up? Also what's the process for making adjustments to the emulators? Do you have to pull the springs, drain the oil every time or?
 

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So how big do you drill the holes, and do you have to drill additional holes? Also do you need any special tools to tear down or build the forks back up? Also what's the process for making adjustments to the emulators? Do you have to pull the springs, drain the oil every time or?
Download the directions for details, much to much to type out in a proper way (with one finger) considering they have directions as well as very good articles on it. The easiest thing to do is call them. Tell them your weight, the weight if any other load you plan to carry and they do the math and tell you the settings. It was spot on for me. Sorry it was to long ago to remember the details.
 

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You do need a tool to get guts out of the oem fork out. I just welded up an extension to a bolt. Someone will post a pic, I can't find a pic now. Picture needing a really long giant Allen wrench where the bolt head serves as the Allen wrench.
 

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anybody?

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FEGV3301

Amazon was the best I found. I like supporting Procycle, and I do, as I just gave them $400, but I can't see giving them an extra $40+ for nothing on that part.
 
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