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I just did this mod and sure hope it was worth it. the driveway test doesnt reveal any change but I didnt figure it would. I have a feeling tuning these things is gonna be a pain in the ass big time. Since im a smaller rider I chose to soften them a bit out of the box.

One of the better mods I've ever done. You should love it

ronnydog
 

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This was my best mod to the bike by far. I did not add additional holes to the factory fork rod I simply drilled them a few sizes bigger. Being a 295-300lb rider I should of done this when I first bought the bike. This along with the pro cycle rear spring has improved the ride more than I thought. I still need to do some testing off road but so far the bike has a much better "feel", and I can tell that it will perform better in the ruts and whoops in the dirt. I did not mess with the emulators either, just dropped them in. Its not that big of a pain once there installed to simply remove the fork cap pull the spring, and with a grabber tool remove them so you can do adjustments if needed. Its way worth it, don't let the adjustments or installation steer you away from them. I highly recommend installing them if you are not happy with the stock suspension!

Here are photos of the stock rod holes compared to drilled.
Factory Holes
IMG_5035.JPG

Drilled holes
IMG_5036.JPG
 

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i realize this is an old thread, but it touches on a few questions i've been kicking around so i figure i'll throw in here...

for the past three decades i've identified as a mountain biker first and foremost and a motorcyclist second, but have always had a love for anything on two wheels. mountain bike suspension is incredibly refined these days and serves as my reference point for how suspension should behave. it won't surprise anyone on the forum to hear that my mostly stock 2006 tw200 is a fantastic all-around bike but is sorely lacking in terms of suspension performance. i am planning on upgrading the tw200 suspension using the procycle 'fork solution kit w/ cartridge emulators' up front and their 'shock spring' in back. i weigh about 210 lbs not including gear. i have seen the recommended spring stiffnesses discussed but what i haven't seen is any discussion of how the intended application might influence this choice of spring rates. specifically, my tw200 sees about 99% of its use as a farm and trail bike on and around our property, and as such very rarely hits pavement and almost never goes over 40 mph. what i'm wondering is should i still go with the stiffer springs front and rear or would i be better off with a lighter spring rate for bumping around off road, or maybe stiff for one but not the other, or...?

would love any thoughts forum users can share, my understanding of suspension considerations is decent for two-wheeled machines weighing under 40 lbs but i'm pretty sure a lot of my intuitions are going to be wrong when applied to a bike that weighs 300 lbs.

thanks in advance for your insights!

--josh
 

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The primary function of the springs is to support the weight. Measuring "rider sag" will tell you what springs you need. Many videos on YouTube will show how to do this. The point is that when you, your gear, and any additional tools, fuel or other stuff you will ride with are on the bike, that weight should use up 25-33% of the available suspension travel.

You can do this measurement now and see where you are at with the stock springs and spring rate. Does your rider sag fall within this range? If so, you know that the stock spring rate is fine for you. If it is, I still recommend the new springs from ProCycle because they are longer and eliminate the 6" plastic spacers. If your rider sag takes up more than 33% of the suspension travel, then you will want to move to a stiffer spring.

I highly recommend getting "Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible" to have it explained by the experts.

I have, and will continue to say that improving the suspension is the best thing you can do for the TW200.

Best of luck to you.
 

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that's great confirmation of what i was hoping was the case, larry, much appreciate the thoughtful reply. also nice to see that the rule of thumb for sagging mtb shocks to around 25% applies similarly to the tw200, gives me a familiar starting point. the fork upgrade looks like an easy job, rear spring swap looks a little sketchier but i'll figure it out.

i think aside from a needed suspension upgrade the only other thing i've been wanting for the tw is a more appropriate gear range, probably 14/55 ish.
 

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like mtb suspension, valving is what gives ride compliance.... the reason for the emulators in the fork. the rear would require a custom shock to gain damping control
 

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i've seen some discussion in the forums about repurposing rear shocks from other bikes but haven't seen anything plug-and-play, is there anyone out there offering such a solution?
 

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i've seen some discussion in the forums about repurposing rear shocks from other bikes but haven't seen anything plug-and-play, is there anyone out there offering such a solution?
Rear suspension is way less scary after you take out the stock rear shock and put it back in, and you can do so by just removing the muffler, and getting the bike on a stand to drop the swing arm down.

I had great success with Marvin Shaw (custom shock solution out of Idaho, very affordable) who used the banshee shock as a template for the setup, travel and nitrogen load obviously took a little back and forth, but in the end, I got an ATV shock that made the bike a lot more fun to ride, and just a lot more stable in general.

Obviously there are more expensive options and other custom options, but for affordability, and if you're willing to do a little work to give them measurements for the stock shock length of travel and your weight, they should be able to get you something for less than $300 out the door.
 

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