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Discussion Starter #1
I'm checking my valve clearence. When the 3 radial marks / lines are visible through the inspection hole I presume the engine is at TDC?. If this correct, both intake and exhaust valves can be checked at this point without any further rotation of crankshaft?.
 

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I use the third line. Just for fun, I once checked exhaust clearance with the center mark and with the right mark. There was no difference. The valves stay fully closed (where they have to be to check clearance) for more of the crank rotation than is shown by those three marks. It is CAM chain timing that is much more sensitive.

Make sure you are close to TDC on the compression stroke by putting your finger over the spark plug hole and start looking for the marks when you feel pressure building. Also, always re-check clearance after you fully torque the lock nut.

EDIT:

Sorry, I should be more precise: Both VALVES may stay closed longer than the radial marks indicate, but the CLEARANCE varies from zero to whatever the maximum clearance is before adjustment (which is at TDC). So as you rotate the crank, clearance goes from zero to a certain value and back to zero. I've never actually checked at what point before, during, and after the radial marks this happens. I only checked the exhaust valve clearance at both the middle and the right mark and found no difference.

In earlier engines the right hand mark is a T.
 

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For a exact valve clearance measurement you have to use the marking on the cam shaft sprocket.

The marking like a wide "H" is for the ignition. The single "|" marking is TDC.

If there is a difference (one teeth or more) between the marking on the flywheel and the cam shaft sprocket, than it could be that you have to change timing chain.
 

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For a exact valve clearance measurement you have to use the marking on the cam shaft sprocket.

The marking like a wide "H" is for the ignition. The single "|" marking is TDC.

If there is a difference (one teeth or more) between the marking on the flywheel and the cam shaft sprocket, than it could be that you have to change timing chain.
Agreed!!!!! :icon_thumright:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well , I finished and took it out for a 20 mile test ride.
Seemed to run smoother?. I did use the middle of the three lines......I believe the service manual (which isn't the greatest IMO) advised to use the middle mark / line......I may have misread the text however?.
I will be purchasing the "special" tool in the future though......the deck screw method did work , but.....
Thank you for all responses......keep them coming , I like all the imputed I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well , I suppose I'll go back in.....at some point and redo my error. I'll refrain from riding it until then....doh. Thanks again. FYI , my TW200 only has 2800ish miles on the clock......so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks bro's for setting me straight. Hate to have something happen to the little dude......thanks again.
 

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...... I'll refrain from riding it until then....doh. ....
I really don't think you need to do that...... it runs fine, so ride it! Maybe check the clearance again in 2,000 miles instead of 4,000 and use the right line next time. Re-read my previous post about not being able to tell the difference in thousandths of clearance between the center or the right mark. Jeez, one can get a reading a thousandth different just by the technique used and/or your feel of the drag on the feeler.:icon_thumright:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes , I read your previous post. I'm not an experienced "wrench" , so to speak. I am a bit querky when it comes to specs though. If I believe the "correct" procedure wasn't followed I'll be paranoid , won't sleep well and the like. ....lol. Surely folks undetstand. I refuse to "drive myself crazy" however, another look-see won't hurt and perhaps improve my confidence. Keep the comments coming fellow riders.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When I start the procedure again.....maybe today? , 88° and humid- not sure yet. I'll post here again , if folks would like to answer questions.
 

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...... If I believe the "correct" procedure wasn't followed I'll be paranoid , won't sleep well and the like. ....lol. ....
Well, just open it back up, test the exhaust clearance at both the center mark and the right hand one, and if you can see a difference, reset both clearances at the right hand mark......that ought to cover it!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I got the flywheel mark (the one on the right side this time) and the cam sprocket marks all aligned.....TDC I presume. The exhaust valve was 0.005" & intake , I adjusted to 0.003"....approximate.
I'll wait a bit for responses prior to buttoning up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
First time: My adjustment settings are approximate due to differences in one's interpretation of "a slight drag" of the feeler gauge. Anyway, the exhaust held at 0.005" but the intake measured 0.005"(approximate ) so I adjusted it 0.003"-approximate. Today is my second go around on this due to not using the cam sprocket method the first time.
 

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In the future it might seem easier to remove the cam shaft sprocket cover to quickly confirm TDC. The O-ring on the cover tolerates multiple disassembles and reassemblies with out leakage or need for replacement. See the very knowledgable Macbig2K1's post #3 for details.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes. The cam sprocket cover is not difficult. I just wish I had my head out of my back side the first time......yesterday while doing the adjustment. Oh well , live and learn. I did the job today in half the time......experience does payoff....lol.
 
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