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In the old forum, there was a post about a "Ram Air Mod" by Babaganoush.



http://tw200forum.com/forums/17698/ShowPost.aspx



Unfortunately, none of the photos are still available showing the mod. Does anyone here remember the details, or has anyone tried it?


I always wanted to try a ram air style intake, but never did. His description is pretty good on how to make it. The swiss cheesing of the airbox is a common mod that can be found, then he added a homemade scoop to that with parts he found at the local hardware store. Swiss cheesing is common, scoops are not...you're gonna have to get creative.
 

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Go to the 5th picture down in this thread (http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/2095-larger-gas-tank/), it will show you the holes in the airbox of ronnydog's bike. Same picture is below...



The cosmetic fender piece will cover the top half (small holes), but the 2 larger filters you see are still exposed after the fender is installed. You need to come up with some sort of scoop to go over them to catch oncoming air.



 

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I may be wrong, but I think he made his scoop by cutting a section of larger ID pvc or abs pipe. Cut at an angle would form a scoop then epoxy some studs for attachment. Gerry
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like it hasn't exactly taken off as a "big improvement" kind of mod.



Maybe I'll tackle other mods first.
 

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Should you think it is a viable idea, you can try it out and let us all know. If you want to play with 'forced' air intake, you may play with this a bit more. 82cfm bilge fan plumbed into the intake, controlled by a pluse modulator and activated by a mercury switch on the throttle cam. Put in place to help deal with lean running at elevation. Since I have not got higher than 6,000 ft. I generally use it to stall the engine when I accidently flip the switch and turn it on.



Remember, a good forum is all about contribution...... Work out a problem, post the solution. Have a fun ride, share some pictures. Got a great idea or mod, show us what you did and tell us how it worked. Just saying. Gerry







 

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Unless you pressurize



Tank, and carb



off the pressured airbox



gas will stop flowing



Califonia model would make it easy



I really don't think you can get any real pressure increase. You would need like 5 psi to make her altitude resistant
 

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Unless you pressurize



Tank, and carb



off the pressured airbox



gas will stop flowing



Califonia model would make it easy



I really don't think you can get any real pressure increase. You would need like 5 psi to make her altitude resistant


The original question was about air intake scoops. This to me suggests one is trying to push a little more air into the carb. I realize more air will likely mandate more gas or the engine will run lean. The original poster of the intake scoops 'felt' the bike ran a bit better with there being a bit of 'extra' air available when the throttle was opened, he did nothing to pressurize the tank. What I (think) did was mechanically produce a bit more air to be available for the engine to use in "thin air" situations. It was not an objective to completely solve the problem, just an experiment to minimize the impact of running lean at higher altitudes. Seems the bike will run at 12,000 ft. My thought was that it might run a bit better given the $85 I spent. Maybe, maybe not. In any event if you don't try, you will never know. After many years of doing this 'goofy' stuff, I have found that most folks say "it won't work". My experience is, most of the time it does. If you are willing to spend more time and money it would likely work great. Most of the time, it works fine for my needs. Thanks.... Gerry
 

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It will work but the differential of gas gravity feed will be overcome by a small pressure differetial



There is an overflow for carb and tank if they are ported to the high pressure area then

normalcy will return is all
 

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It will work but the differential of gas gravity feed will be overcome by a small pressure differetial



There is an overflow for carb and tank if they are ported to the high pressure area then

normalcy will return is all




Stomper, thanks. I get what you are saying. Since I have a Clarke tank I will need to 'pressurize' at the vent on the cap. All in all the equalization should be a pretty straight forward process and easy to test out. From day to day the weather is still pretty cool. Once it feels a little warmer I will do as you suggested and let the folks know what happened. Gerry
 

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Hey Stomper, it was a nice warm day so I thought it was time to get off my lazy butt and follow-up on your advice. Your suggestion was certainly straight forward but there were a couple of of issues I had in place that I thought might minimize the negative impact of air (pressure) introduced into the intake. Since this was set-up to use at much higher elevations it did not seem I could do much real testing at my 1700' elevation.



Figured I did not have much to loose as the parts and time involved seemed pretty modest. Well, as we all know virtually every project requires more time than expected.



The point of comparison for this test is the fact that before your suggested mod, the bike would stall a few seconds after the fan was turned on. Thought this was simply because the added volume of air leaned out the mixture way to much. Your concern seemed more likely the cause after I thought about it.



Once the tank, carb vent were plumbed into the air filter box, the bike would continue to run, but upon hard acceleration I started to get some popping I have a mercury switch on the throttle cam that activates the 'blower' around 3200 rpms. Suspect now the popping is the result of a very lean mixture. Since again this idea was put in place for 'thin air' situations, I don't want to go through all the trouble of trying to re-jet to accomodate the slight increase in air. Since I do have a pusle modulator, what I will do is hook it up to the fan to regulate the volume of the intake. If I can adjust it down so the bike might seem to run (better) with no popping, then maybe the idea would help some at altitude. Thanks again for your feed back. Gerry



Tube plumbing from airbox.







Air into tank.







Mercury switch to activate air at some point above idle.



 

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Virtual village you can get a PWM dc motor controller for about $25



I am not sure it will work blower style other than to make up for

altitude thinning. If you can pressurize after the throttle than

gas would stop flowing until / if the intakes draws a vacuum differential.



I dunno ?
 

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You lost me again with the vacuum differential. I am not a scientic guy at all. Likely one of the reasons I end up with some unusual mods is, in the beginning, I don't realize that science suggests they should not work. Found an air gauge in my 'Big Box of Stuff'. I was able to blow into it and see the needle move up around 2psi. When I hooked up to the 3/16th's output from the airbox nothing registered. Given the performance of the blower, what I think I will try next is instead of using the output from the blower, I will ride around with the tube in my mouth and blow real hard when I need a burst of speed/power.



Tested airflow at intake of blower and output with some smoke from incense (scientific grade incense). Nothing quite as dramatic as you see in wind tunnels.



will continue with the speed controller once I can find a place to put it. Just kidding about "tube in my mouth" Seems my air volume output is a bit compromise at that end, not so on the other...... :) Gerry
 

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http://www.turbokart...rbo_exciter.htm



Here's all the fun of blowing a little tw type motor


Thanks for the link. Interesting and a real find for someone that would really like to install a turbo charger. My interest was to simply compensate for 'thin air' at higher altitudes. Some time ago a forum member provided air pressure levels for differing elevation. The numbers suggested my bilge fan would fall short of the mark. I still had hope that some performance could be restored with the use of the fan (perhaps in conjunction with a dial-a-jet),



The electronic motor controller is now wired-up and positioned on my 'dash'. Today, I indexed my twist grip to confirm throttle position and motor activation. Seems the fan activates at a much higher rpm than I thought 5800 rpm VS 3200, but since it is adjustable, I will leave it where it is for now. My test rides this morning were a mixed bag as it seemed there are number of unknown (to me) variables. I'll keep playing around. Gerry



here's some marking on the throttle indicating when I should expect the 'kick' of the blower.







The speed controller is mounted to my Jimbo shield just above my gps holder (cell phone nest). I will need Jimbo to make me a larger shield so I can mount more stuff.



 

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Hmmm? Blower leans mixture when kicked on? Altitude richens mixture? Seems like at some point the two would cancel each other out and the bike would run primo.
 

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A 12V vacuum cleaner motor blower could provide real air pressure differential.



I would be surprised if a TW electrical generation or even the motor would keep up.



I kind of imagine like a button where you would get a short term burst might prove usefull though
 

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Great idea.. I see lots of vac's when I brouse the thrift stores. Will keep playing with what I have and as well, keep my eyes peeled for a 12v unit. Gerry
 
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