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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got around to fabbing a rear hub to accept a 12" tubeless Atv tire. Been meaning to do this for a while and now actually did it.

I started with a stock wheel from a tw, cut the spokes and used plasma table to cut out a 2 piece hub that is welded around the tw hub which accepts the studs from a triz250 front wheel, and bolted up a tri z front wheel that barely fits around the brake drum. Just got home from doing this and should have some pics and details up shortly.
 

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Excellant idea! Anxiously awaiting explanatory photos since your stuff is always so creative.
 

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MudDog's photos use a 14" trailer wheel as the rim source while TinyWheel's donor is from a front tri-Z250 wheel I think. I believe a 12" trailer rim has been proposed as an alternative yielding a lighter wheel assembly, tubeless capability, easier tire changes and flat repair as well as wide range of 12" ATV tire options. Any of these three options seems superior to using the stock TW rim with ATV tires.
 

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Rally on! I like tubeless but kinda like the stock size tire for dual sport use. Spokes are great for strength but what
a pain when one finds a penetration. A careless farrier gave me three flats a while back on a ranch I work on........
would have been nice to "plug n go"
 

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Someone here years ago posted about going tubeless with stock TrailWing tire and OEM rim. Author installed a tubeless valve stem and used a "goopy" white colored 3M adhesive to paint over the spokes. Several coats later he had a sealed spoke rim. I hope he tightened his spokes first :D. I suppose a broken spoke could be replaced with some effort. I do not recall if he ever reported back if he was happy after a long term test.
 

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Brian, is your project going to use a 12" or 14" rim? And have you picked out a preferred tire to mount up? Perhaps another one of your custom "xxx for Highway Use" Duros?
 

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Brian, is your project going to use a 12" or 14" rim? And have you picked out a preferred tire to mount up? Perhaps another one of your custom "xxx for Highway Use" Duros?
Fred,

I am using the 12 inch, 4 lug trailer wheel in the picture below. Here's what needs to be done.

Wheel - The ID of the trailer needs to opened up/notched to allow the sprocket mounting flange to pass through.
Hub - Machine off the spoke mounting portion of the brake drum flange. Machine off the weld holding the brake drum flange and remove the brake drum flange from the hub. Then machine off the small spoke mounting flange weld, remove and discard flange. Fabricate a 4 lug wheel mounting ring and weld into position on hub. Re-position and re-weld the brake drum flange onto hub..

Since I still have a good bit of work to get done, I have not shopped around for a tire yet. I am led to believe that there is a wider selection of DOT approved ATV tires in the 12 inch size, but I can't yet confirm this.

100_4842.JPG
 

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. th-12.jpeg How about STI Black Diamond radial D.O.T. in 25x8R-12 6 ply, "only"22.7 lbs? short and narrow enough to not require swing arm lengthening nor serious gearing changes.ATV Tires - STI Black Diamond XTR ATV Tires.
This one is only 6 plus with lots of voids to attract sharp rocks and thorns so Ride-On sealant might be wise. Everything is a compromise, I suggested this one for smaller size and weight, DOT and flexible carcass for low pressure ops. There are many options, but fewer street legal tires than I had been led to believe.
Great project Brian, YOU ARE THE MAN!
 

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Hey Fred Swapping a tubed rim into tubeless can lead to trouble. Tubeless rims have a lip (bead seal)
to hold the tire on the rim and seal the air. Lacking bead lip one can suffer "instant flat" with impact or running low pressure. Maybe thats
why you didn't hear back from the experimentor? At speed "instant flat" would be quite thrilling.
 

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" Maybe thats why you didn't hear back from the experimentor? At speed "instant flat" would be quite thrilling." - my thoughts exactly Oh Learned One, although I had not heard of this problem with the TuBliss 100psi spoke sealing systems available for other sizes...
th-13.jpeg No headlocks on our rims anyways;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you go with a Z rim instead of a trailer rim theres no machining or flange removal necessary. It fits over the brake side flange, and as a plus you know for certain that an atv rim is made specifically to accept a atv rim. Way less monkeying around and machining to do and way safer. I can confirm that the ATX tire is your best choice for a mud capable street legal atv tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took the bike out for a ride last night and can say that the 12 inch tire makes a pretty huge difference on trails and in snow when its aired down. definitely noticeable. Aired up its decent on the pavement too. This is one of the best things ive done to this bike.
 

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Hey Fred Swapping a tubed rim into tubeless can lead to trouble. Tubeless rims have a lip (bead seal)
to hold the tire on the rim and seal the air. Lacking bead lip one can suffer "instant flat" with impact or running low pressure. Maybe thats
why you didn't hear back from the experimentor? At speed "instant flat" would be quite thrilling.
I own several bikes with tubed spoked rims..........well actually all of them :) Ive followed (on forums) several over the years that have done it. Never heard of an instant flat, but everyone always warns about it. Kinda like the highway bikes that use car tires on the rear, everyone tells them they will crash and burn.....................they never do though. :)
 
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