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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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You'd have to work out a cable and bracket set up similar to the front drums on the pre-2001 bikes. With the right cable and tension I'd imagine you could probably get stopping power comparable to the foot lever. You'd need a pretty long, well-adjusted cable though.



Additionally, you'd have to find a cable-actuated shorty lever, I'd say.
 

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Hmmm... I've seen those on a buddies KTM and he swears by it. Much better control of the rear brake off road, especially when standing.



The hard part of this idea is that the brake isn't hydraulic. But... just thinking aloud here... if you welded a stay onto the swing arm tall enough to be at the same height as the current brake rod, you could remove the brake rod and hook up a cable to the brake arm, then insert the housing of the cable into this newly welded stay, and then attach the other end of the housing into a handle bar mounted shorty lever. This idea would require losing the current setup.



If you wanted to keep the pedal active and ADD the handlebar mounted lever.... you could weld on an extension to the existing brake pedal on the other side of the pivot point, then use a cable system to pull up on this extension to simulate the downward motion of the pedal. Making it all tight against the frame and out of the way of your feet will be tricky, but it could work pretty well if executed properly.
 

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The Honda ATV has the exact thing you are asking about. The rear brake is a drum and is operated by a hand lever and foot pedal, no hydraulics. Each cable pulls on the same brake arm and are slotted to allow one cable to remain motionless while the other cable pulls on the arm.







 

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The Honda ATV has the exact thing you are asking about. The rear brake is a drum and is operated by a hand lever and foot pedal, no hydraulics. Each cable pulls on the same brake arm and are slotted to allow one cable to remain motionless while the other cable pulls on the arm.


Well there we go. I'd grab that bracket, the cables, and the foot/hand levers off ebay and maybe work from there.
 

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Would this "shorty lever" mount with the front brake lever? under? over? Help me picture this.



I like the idea of activating the rear brake while both feet are on the ground. There's been several times when the front wheel would just lock up and back down the hill I go, backwards, usually out of control.




Thanks,



BS
 

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Kill switch and clutch lever works great for downhills. Grab a handfull of back brake while rolling/sliding downhill and the bike will likely go over backwards, dump you on your head, literally, and land on top of you, risking a broken back or neck. Youtube is loaded with wheelers and buggies doing exactly that. On a motorcycle rolling/sliding backwards, safer to step aside and lay the bike on its side.



Stuntas often rig a rear brake lever under the left thumb--makes recovering from an over-ambitious wheelie much easier. Easy to do with either mechanical or hydraulic brakes. Simple levers and fulcrums, if you think about it.
 

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Do a front-to-rear drum brake conversion. You'll have your cable lug and a larger brake drum.



On my list.The backing plate isn't a total slam-dunk due to the difference in axle diameters but it looks doable. But you'll still need a way of multiplying the force, keeping a short throw. Not easy to do with a thumb lever and cable.



Wish we had one of those "Eating popcorn, watching" smiley thingies.
 

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I'm thinking there's a lot of over-thinking going on. I've seen "wheelie brakes" with the inner wire hose-clamped to the stock brake rod, and the outer sheath fitted into a simple pipe cap with a slot hacksawed held to the swingarm with hose clamps. The handlebar end was standard aftermarket lever and mount.
 

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This is done all the time to minis like the crf50 for stunts. Check it out on some of those forums. You could either mod one of the many aftermarket setups or get tips on making your own.
 

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I don't see a need right now for myself but had some extra time to do a 'mock-up'.



here is 'brake' cable inserted into small diameter thickwall aluminium tube then crimped tightly to rod with cable clamp,















guide and stop were simply made with stuff on hand, an inexpensive 1/4" drive socket and a sharply bent 3/16 rod. Both were welded to a section of stock with the 'intent' of attaching to arm.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ooooo now you really got me thinking...i like that idea. I really do. Seems a simple trip to home depo would get me all the parts besides a lever on the bars.



Would i need a spring anywhere inline on the new cable? Youd think thered be enough leverage running the cable all the way up to the bars? Im thinking mounting it on the left side...not sure if i want to to it top of bottom of the clutch.
 

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I am of the opinion that the springs in place will be all that is needed. Leverage, well that is a question that likely will have to be left to some experimentation. Other members have indicated that the brake arm off a TTR 225 or some such Yamaha is longer and provides more leverage. I would be inclined to do the lever change even without adding a hand control. Good luck and keep us updated as to the particulars. Gerry



Xdac, since it seems I may have put together the beginnings of what you need, I will send you a section of the aluminium crimp tube, the cable clamp since it looks to be the right size and as well, the welded up bracket. $5.00 should cover clamp and shipping. P.M. your address if interested.



 

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Instead of the bracket, you might could incorporate the brake rod spring loop attached to the swingarm; this would look much cleaner.
 

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Instead of the bracket, you might could incorporate the brake rod spring loop attached to the swingarm; this would look much cleaner.


Benefit of the bracket is a straight pull for the cable. With the loop as termination point, the cable will always rub hard against the edge of the reinforcing coil in the caseing because of the cable to rod angle. Certainly not a deal breaker. Gerry
 

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Yes, it is that simple, and yes, you could pull there. Generally, wheelie brake levers go under the grip and are actuated by the thumb.
 
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