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Discussion Starter #1
After buying a V-star 1100 shock to lower the bike for my wife & oldest daughter, I've found I want the ability to relatively quickly go back and forth from lowered to stock height. The shock removal / swap is relatively easy, but one of the biggest issues is the cotter pin at the end of the pin on the lower mount. After 2 or 3 flexes these break. I'm wondering why you couldn't use the bolt & lock nut (and washers) that came with the v-star shock. Wondering if it has to be a pin for a specific reason? Any other ideas?
 

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No specific reason I can think of. Cotter pins are super cheap to pick up even in bulk. So try the bolt and see how it goes or grab a bunch of cotter pins from Ace or your local hardware peddler. Another option could be to use a hitch pin, but I am not sure how that would work out, but it's an idea for quicker swaps...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My same thoughts. Hitch pin seems like it would be a good fit, but I always ask 'why wouldn't yamaha just use one'. Always seems there is some reason: vibration, stress, other mechanical reason. Hitch pin could be used over and over so that would be nice, but probably not as secure. Seems a split cotter pin is used in instances where you really don't want it to come off. More of a permanent solution I guess, not made to be taken on and off a lot.
 

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Please let us know how this goes for you. I also bought a v-star shock, but I'm a ways from installing it. Having the flexibility to change the shock would be awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've done the shock swap twice now and can do it pretty quickly without even removing the rear tire. This pin is actually one of the more tricky items as there isn't much room in there, and it has to be bent and un-bent in a tight space. Having a bolt with lock nut (like the top is done) would be much easier. Gonna try the lower bolt from the V-Star shock next time I have a few mins.
 

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I haven't seen the V Star bolt but I imagine you should use a shoulder bolt so you don't over tighten it in the mounting and a nylock type nut, or maybe a pair of locking nuts.
Thinking more about it, maybe a castellated nut with an 'R' pin and a small hole drilled through the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you use the bolt be careful not to pinch the shock in the mount when you tighten it.
Yeah, for sure. Will make sure there's free motion after putting it in. Seems a bolt is the more secure option. Those lock nuts are not coming off unless there's a wrench on both nut and bolt head ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So the stock shoulder bolt that shipped with my used v-star 1100 shock (the longer of the two bolts) does not quite have enough thread on it to allow the lock nut to bite at the end of travel. It's super close, but not safe enough. I would like to find the same sized bolt diameter / threads, but slightly longer non-threaded length. I'm thinking it also might need to be rated for the purpose, with shear stress across length (ie. hardened).
 

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Chiming in. I replaced my pin with a M12 bolt and nut, to tighten up the clackyness of the pin. I hope that there is a bushing in there to pivot on. Does anyone know if there is, or does the shock meant to pivot on the pin?

I will find out in time, when I totally remove the rear shock. Just asking for now.
 

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From the Urban Dictionary:
Clacky
"A creature made of pure awesomeness."

So I guess that wouldn't apply to mother-in-laws then.
 
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