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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was removing my rear wheel this afternoon to replace the knobbie with a new tw4 bridgstone when I discovered a crack near, and through the lug that slides onto the swing arm which holds the brake in position. A new one is available at $80.00. My question is will welding the plate weaken it or make it stronger. Also I wonder if any other forum members have experienced this brakeage. My supposition is that the previous owner replaced the rear sprocket with a smaller one (45) and did not shorten the chain, leaving the rear wheel too far extended leaving the brake too far extended from the lug on the frame causing extreme leverage on the end if the backing plate. Obviously his error was discovered as the chain is proper length now. Glad I discovered the crack before it broke off completely and perhaps locking up the rear wheel. Suggestions appreciated ------Scotsman
 

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As cheap as they are, I'd replace the brake plate. I didn't do any eBay research for you on used ones, but new, here are the numbers....



1987 through 1997 models use part number 2JX-25321-01-35 which costs 45.04.



http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-2JX-25321-01-35.html



1998 models and newer are part number 2JX-25321-02-35 and cost 45.04



http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-2JX-25321-02-35.html



So, either part number will run you 45 dollars, but I suspect the earlier model part number simply superceeds to the later part. Regardless, when you order one, they will update anything that has been superceeded automatically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As cheap as they are, I'd replace the brake plate. I didn't do any eBay research for you on used ones, but new, here are the numbers....



1987 through 1997 models use part number 2JX-25321-01-35 which costs 45.04.



http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-2JX-25321-01-35.html



1998 models and newer are part number 2JX-25321-02-35 and cost 45.04



http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-2JX-25321-02-35.html



So, either part number will run you 45 dollars, but I suspect the earlier model part number simply superceeds to the later part. Regardless, when you order one, they will update anything that has been superceeded automatically.
 

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Thanks so much for the reply---- At that price is would seem cheaper to replace than weld --You guys in the forum are the best ! ======


I don't know. I never pass up an opportunity to break out the MIG or TIG.
 

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That's pretty poor quality cast aliminum. I don't envy the guy who has to sew up the crack with the TIG. When I heat them to powdercoat, they release vile out gassing forever. Lots of stuff down in there to get out before you are gonna get a pretty TIG weld.
 

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That's pretty poor quality cast aliminum. I don't envy the guy who has to sew up the crack with the TIG. When I heat them to powdercoat, they release vile out gassing forever. Lots of stuff down in there to get out before you are gonna get a pretty TIG weld.
Yeah, some of those aluminium alloys are pretty strange to weld on - hard to find the right rods and then they just crap out on you anyway. Better to buy a new one compadre.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I had the backing plate welded and decided to use it until the new one arrives. Now, of note, while replacing the wheel and new tire I realized that it was perhaps myself that cracked that plate. Don't know for sure, but putting it on and not getting it in place correctly I certainly could have let the weight of that wheel slip backwards and put a strain on the plate. Anyway, not placing blame on others I confess that I just might have broken it myself. Now a word to the wise, be very careful when installing that heavy rear wheel. In any event, the new tires work very well and everything seems to be working correctly.--Scotsman
 
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