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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone! I thought I would start a thread to document my own adventures in transplanting a TTR225 engine into my old 1987 TW200. I found an ad on Craigslist for a bike that was almost 3 weeks old. I didn't think I had any chance at it but, I send the fellow an email and actually received a reply in a few hours. He said it was still available and told me to "Come and get it." I was happy to oblige and took it home for $400. Also included but not pictured below is a fuel tank in usable condition and a totally destroyed seat.

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Looking over the engine I discovered a damaged oil drain plug, as this bike was apparently run without a skid plate for some time. There is also some water contamination in the oil, sadly. I've got a jug of Yamalube on the way and hopefully, several oil flushes will take care of that. The o-ring on the starter is leaking and will require a replacement, as well as the o-ring for the timing chain cover. I hooked up a battery to the bike and, to my surprise, it started right up! But, we have a problem. She's a heavy smoker all right...

She's a smoker...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Might also have just a little bit of chain stretch. Think it's ok?

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Do the repairs while in the TTR chassis. It is much easier and you don't take your TW out of service more than a day or two.
I'd get a 229cc piston/barrel off eBay for around $70, and a gasket set that includes cable seals for around $30.

Take a couple days to replace those, make sure it runs well, the swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
and the Wife tosses them out.
I'm still young(er)! No wife - happy life!

I'd get a 229cc piston/barrel off eBay for around $70, and a gasket set that includes cable seals for around $30.
That is the plan right now, Gerry. I am now following your TTR build thread very closely!

I still feel a little bit blindsided by this parts bike find - I was not expecting it to come my way at all! There is absolutely no rush for me to get this engine installed, especially when just getting into the heart of the riding season here. My plan right now is to slowly get this engine in order and plan for an installation into the bike in the spring, perhaps? I'm actually glad it needs a little work and shouldn't just be transplanted immediately. I always envisioned that when I eventually did find a big-bore six-speed transplant, I would put together a real MONSTER of an engine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Let's just say that this engine currently burns a volume of oil in the neighborhood of the Deepwater Horizon! It certainly needs some top-end work. I'm torn between just installing the 229cm piston/barrel kit and running it or taking my time and building up a true 250cc. This damn forum...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've started giving the engine some oil flushes. After running for only about 20 minutes, the oil came out very thick and milky-colored. I just drained the second flush after a similar short run-time. The oil came out much better looking. Still, once the draining oil began to slowly drip a milky coloration showed up again. I peered through the oil fill hole in the side cover and noticed a thick milky-colored sludge on the outside of the clutch. Thick enough to smudge with my fingertip. It might be in my best interest to at least pull the side covers off and wipe down what I can before proceeding with further flushes. I've got to install a new barrel/piston kit desperately. Should I just save the oil for now and start breaking the engine down? What do you more knowledgeable folks think?

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I would just keep flushing. Get a couple 5 quart jugs, around $30, and do an oil change or two per day until it comes clean. I did 10 I think before it wasn't all dark after 15 minute runs.
At change 5 I used a motor flush. The flush instructions say to add 1 quart to a motor. Since motors normally use 5 quarts, I used 1/5th of the flush. Further says to use it on a warmed up motor, start and let idle, do NOT rev motor!, then flush. It's like kicking a hornet's nest; really stirred up the sludge! I would also not recommend exercising the clutch while using a flush in the oil.
I would not break down the motor or even remove the cover. Gaskets are not cheap and you don't want your new components exposed to contaminants until the motor flushes clean.

I wanted to preserve the TW motor as much as possible, so nothing is gleaned off it to the TTR motor. I bought the interchange parts off eBay for good prices and that allows me to test the motor and do a 1-day swap when I get the time and courage to get in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you, Gerry. I'll just continue to flush for a while - it just pains me to see this engine smoke so bad! What brand of engine flush did you use? I'm not sure I'll be able to source the 1987-specific components I'll need in order to preserve the 196cc engine without significant expense. There's a left-side cover on eBay right now for $229! That's too much...
 
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I thought you said you followed my posts. Ha! Motor Medic Motor Flush. $5 at Walmart, a buck more at Autozone:

For parts, compare years and see if other years might work. Partzilla via part number will tell the tale. Are the '87 side covers unique from all other years? Also, on the 2001+ bikes, the stator and rotor are the same, no need to buy TW specific there, just the cover.
 

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Flushing oil is deliberately thin so it gets hot quicker - which in turn helps with the flushing - you'll go through a lot more 20w/50 if you use ordinary oil types

Just let it idle as Ski says, and keep the flushes going until it starts to clear. The really stubborn stuff will come out with the next dozen or so proper oil changes, but a fair bit of the water content will evap off

Make sure the oil filter is not the paper type, or you'll have even more problems ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I thought you said you followed my posts. Ha!
I try my best! You are one of the many Gentlemen here who has more depth of knowledge than I could even pretend to keep up with, Gerry. Yes, 1987 has its own unique side cover and electrical components. The oil filter is the factory mesh type which I thoroughly cleaned before starting to flush. I've got the next quart of Yamalube 10W40 cooking in it now... I'll post the results!
 
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I like the idea of the doing a complete teardown and rebuild top to bottom. The bearings are most likely pretty corroded and rough. Same goes for any bushings. Not that big of a deal to rebuild a small engine. You could then do a build of your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I noticed during the first 2 flushes that the drive shaft would spin while in neutral. If I put my thumb on the shaft then it easily stopped rotating. During the 3rd flush, the shaft stopped spinning while in neutral so I think that's a good sign. I have unfortunately run into a bit of a problem. I installed the oil drain plug as easily as always absolutely not cross thread or with any resistance at all. Regardless, something happened when I was about halfway through removing it. The drain plug suddenly had great resistance and came out very damaged. It also appears to have damaged the threads in the case. What the hell happened here??? Anyway, 3rd flush was already looking much better...

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok well it seems the catastrophe has been averted. I used a sharpened 90-degree pick in conjunction with a small hammer to do my best and re-scribe the threads in the crankcase. Then I filed down the damaged area of the drain plug and used the remaining threads to slowly chase the threads in the crankcase. It worked! A new drain plug is on the way...

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Can anyone confirm the thread pitch for the oil drain is M35 x 1.5mm?
 
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