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True! Water will evap out via the breather hose to the air box. But the oil must be warm enough to get it to that stage.but a fair bit of the water content will evap off
True! Water will evap out via the breather hose to the air box. But the oil must be warm enough to get it to that stage.but a fair bit of the water content will evap off
I tried using a ratchet to remove the flywheel once upon a time. It didn't work. I'm so glad I got an electric "rattle gun". It helps take the flywheel off in seconds (or a second). I've used it so much over the years. I do have an air impact gun I use as well but the electric one seems to be more powerful and works on vehicle lug nuts too.Following your thread as I am currently doing exactly what you are. Xt225 motor swap. I am stuck at the flywheel removal stage, the puller wont budge the flywheel on the old stuffed motor. I've needed a compressor for a while so im saving for one and will buy a rattle gun to get it off.
Ron would need about 125 years at a leisurely pace to finish everything he’s got and has planned at his sprawling estate. But nothing on blocks covered by a blue torn Costco tarp. He IS organized!! PI say do the swap and run it. The top end can be rebuilt at any time.
The real danger with these projects is letting them get gradually pushed back farther into the refrigerator til they grow moldy and the Wife tosses them out.
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Ski, you wouldn’t have a complete list of the total parts you bought for your one-day swap, would you? A six pack of Oregon IPA in exchange? I’d really like to go your route and will start accumulate what I need early on. I’ve read every post here on the swap, Itll hurt to do it all at once (about 5 hours total). Thanks man! PI would just keep flushing. Get a couple 5 quart jugs, around $30, and do an oil change or two per day until it comes clean. I did 10 I think before it wasn't all dark after 15 minute runs.
At change 5 I used a motor flush. The flush instructions say to add 1 quart to a motor. Since motors normally use 5 quarts, I used 1/5th of the flush. Further says to use it on a warmed up motor, start and let idle, do NOT rev motor!, then flush. It's like kicking a hornet's nest; really stirred up the sludge! I would also not recommend exercising the clutch while using a flush in the oil.
I would not break down the motor or even remove the cover. Gaskets are not cheap and you don't want your new components exposed to contaminants until the motor flushes clean.
I wanted to preserve the TW motor as much as possible, so nothing is gleaned off it to the TTR motor. I bought the interchange parts off eBay for good prices and that allows me to test the motor and do a 1-day swap when I get the time and courage to get in there.
Are you sure you need to remove the flywheel? My 1999 TTR225 has the same flywheel and stator as my TW200.Following your thread as I am currently doing exactly what you are. Xt225 motor swap. I am stuck at the flywheel removal stage, the puller wont budge the flywheel on the old stuffed motor. I've needed a compressor for a while so im saving for one and will buy a rattle gun to get it off.
DittoI tried using a ratchet to remove the flywheel once upon a time. It didn't work. I'm so glad I got an electric "rattle gun". It helps take the flywheel off in seconds (or a second). I've used it so much over the years. I do have an air impact gun I use as well but the electric one seems to be more powerful and works on vehicle lug nuts too.
Yeah baby! 229 cc's of thunder! Ha!I've got a cheap pneumatic air gun I purchased when my 20V DeWalt impact driver failed to remove the flywheel nut from the 1988 engine currently in my TW. I'll be using it again soon! Today I ordered the piston/cylinder top-end kit that @Ski Pro 3 mentioned in his TTR upgrade mod thread - seen here:
Cylinder Piston Gasket Top End Set Bore 70mm For Yamaha XT225 TTR225 TTR230 | eBay
Going over the item description, the seller claims "Includes High-Compression Hardened Aluminum Piston Kit" although, no compression ratio is specified. I'm intrigued to see if after assembly my PSI readings are similar to Gerry's.
No, I don't have a list. A list would include prices and DEAR LORD, I don't want to know how much I've got into this hobby of mine. Ha!Ski, you wouldn’t have a complete list of the total parts you bought for your one-day swap, would you? A six pack of Oregon IPA in exchange? I’d really like to go your route and will start accumulate what I need early on. I’ve read every post here on the swap, Itll hurt to do it all at once (about 5 hours total). Thanks man! P
Hell yeah, Brother! Thank you very much for that list. I was planning on being wise and replacing the valve seals while I had the head off - that Tusk top-end kit is perfect! I read about the YFM250 camshaft's torque improvement on your TTR thread and I've been looking for a deal on one ever since. A low-end torque improvement would suit my preferred riding terrain rather nicely.Yeah baby! 229 cc's of thunder! Ha!
Check with CJ7pilot. He's liquidating and I think he may have another.Hell yeah, Brother! Thank you very much for that list. I was planning on being wise and replacing the valve seals while I had the head off - that Tusk top-end kit is perfect! I read about the YFM250 camshaft's torque improvement on your TTR thread and I've been looking for a deal on one ever since. A low-end torque improvement would suit my preferred riding terrain rather nicely.
Thanks Ski! As always, very helpful. Post saved. PNo, I don't have a list. A list would include prices and DEAR LORD, I don't want to know how much I've got into this hobby of mine. Ha!
But let me see if I can remember:
1. bracket and clutch arm to convert the angle the clutch cable to a TW200 style. The bracket bolts to the bottom two bolts on the left of the cylinder. The clutch arm is held in with a screw above the counter shaft.
2. Stator and Rotor for late model TW200. However, after I got it, I took the cover off the 1999 TTR225 and it's the same as my TW200 except for the connector on the stator windings. So I'll swap the stator and sell the rotor/flywheel.
3. starter clutch assembly, but also do not need this as it's also a duplicate. Bolts onto the back side of the rotor/flywheel.
4. The countershaft sprocket extension
5. TW200 side cover
6.Both carb boots; the one that bolts to the cylinder and the one between the carb and air box. I got both because they get brittle, hard and shrink. Brand new they are soft and supple.
7. TUSK top end gasket kit for the YFM250. Kit even includes valve seals!!!
Here's a link:
8. Gasket side cover kit for 225. Needed the clutch side. The stator side gasket is included with the counter shaft extension as a kit. Plus it has fresh gaskets for stuff like the cam chain tensioner, exhaust pipe, plus the head gasket will work for the larger 229cc cylinder.![]()
Tusk Top End Head Gasket Kit YAMAHA TIMBERWOLF 250 2X4 and 4x4 1989-1996 YFM250 | eBay
YFM250 MOTO 4 1989-1991. Fits these machines:TIMBERWOLF 250 2X4 1992-1996. TIMBERWOLF 250 4x4 1994-1996. Tusk Top End Gasket Kit. Tusk Top End Gaskets are made from the highest quality materials available.www.ebay.com
9. XT225 side cover with the plug for the kick starter. I added a kick starter and this was easier than punching out the TTR cover.![]()
Complete Full Cylinder Engine Gasket Cover Kit for Yamaha XT225 TTR225 TTR230 | eBay
YAMAHA XT225 TTR225 TTR230. 1 Complete Full Engine Cylinder Gasket Kit.www.ebay.com
10. YFM250 complete head. I destroyed my cam by forgetting to tighten the cam gear bolt. Got this head for $50 and a YFM250 second cam from CJ7pilot. So I gave the head to Fred and used the cam from CJ7.