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I bought one of those for my pending TTR build. Quality seems acceptable, about like the piston/cylinder kits. Those heads are tough to beat at that price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I may end up going that route depending on the inspection results when the head comes off. Hopefully, just a little cleanup and new valve seals are all that will be necessary to have the TTR head ready to go! Continuing with oil flushing, each round appears to be coming out with less water contamination.

Flush #5
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Flush #6 contains the red-colored engine flush which is why the oil is a different shade. Looks like the dark watery spot remains in the pan, however, continues to get smaller every time - at least to my optimistic eyes. I received another gallon of Yamalube yesterday so, I'll continue to flush. Waiting on parts anyway!

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It doesn't look that horrible to me. Rather than waste any more expensive Yamalube on flushing, I'd recommend adding some seafoam. Probably about 20%, then go put some actual riding miles on it. It's a pretty good cleaning agent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Unfortunately, this is a proper "parts bike" and cannot be safely ridden without risking injury. The rear wheel is bent in several places and half of the spokes are missing or broken. It also has absolutely no brakes of any kind! I have a few more flushes scheduled while I'm waiting for the parts to rebuild the top end to arrive. When they come in I'll start tearing the engine down. I do agree - the oil coming out doesn't look bad at all. I'm very happy about that!
 
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Flush #7 and we're moving right along. I've run the engine a couple of hours with its current oil - I think I'll be ready to install the new cylinder and piston kit after draining.

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Speaking of which - the cylinder arrived with slight damage to the upper-rear-left cooling fin. It's just cosmetic, so there are no complaints from me - except for the seller! This resulted in a $23 refund and in my mind, effectively resulted in the purchase of a functional blemished item. That is A-OK with me!

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I was also able to find a cheap M35x1.5mm tap that I used to fully repair the crankcase's damaged threads for the oil drain plug. First I laid the bike on its side to keep the oil in it. Using some small pieces of foam cut from a floormat, I plugged the oil ports to prevent any shaving from getting into the crankcase.

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Next, the side cover had to be removed to allow for clearance of the largest tap I have ever handled. Once the tap was lined up properly and beginning to chase the threads, I used some q-tips to clean any shavings that built up instead of letting them fall. All fixed up!

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The thing about tapping/chasing threads on a buggered hole is that you still end up with less material than an undamaged unit. Keep that in mind every time you put the plug in or take it out. I've found the eBay CNC plugs to be as near perfect as a threaded cap can be. Use anitseize and only seat just a hair past finger seated. After all, there is an o-ring, no need to go past 3 or 4 ft lbs torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
It's just super thick astroturf! I have an 8X12ft section out on the back deck where I'm working on the TTR engine. I also covered the floor on my 6x12 enclosed trailer with the same stuff. My knees don't like hard surfaces too much anymore!
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
Flush #8 was completed a few days ago with another dose of motor flush. I saw even less sign of water contamination, so I decided that it was time to go ahead and start performing repairs.

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Removing the cylinder head revealed the carbon deposits one would expect from a heavily smoking engine.

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The piston and barrel definitely had what would have to be described as "noticeable" wear. Looks to me like replacement parts are certainly in order.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Then the new piston and cylinder were installed, making sure to add the TW-style clutch cable mount that will be used later.

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Next, I turned my attention to the cylinder head. First, I cleaned up the carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and the intake and exhaust ports. Second, I rigged up the improvised C-clamp and replaced the valve seals. Also, since I had the camshaft collar already removed, I took the opportunity to replace it with a 6005 bearing.

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Bit of a bump in the road during the rest of the assembly today... When installing the piston and cylinder earlier I noticed that the kit only included a gasket between the crankcase and cylinder, whereas the service manual shows an o-ring around the sleeve and a gasket. This was reflected in the parts I removed from the engine, so I decided to forgo the gasket included with the cylinder/piston and go with the o-ring and gasket from the Tusk kit. The o-ring seemed a bit too large to fit into the corresponding channel in the cylinder but, I assume everything would compress down properly when torquing the head bolts. I was wrong! Instead, the 0-ring just flattened out and prevented the gasket from sealing properly. I was actually able to wiggle it around after proper torque was attained! So... I broke the top end down again and went with the gasket that was included with the cylinder/piston kit instead. Buttoned everything back up and was just about to add some oil and fire the engine up when I realized it would be better to wait. I still have to replace the shift shaft so, I'll take care of that first before adding any oil to the crankcase.

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Some slight progress today coupled with some excellent news! It was finally time to pull the right-side crankcase cover off in order to tackle the engine's bent shift shaft. Upon removal of the side cover, I discovered some more thick and dark water-contaminated sludge that was stuck between the side cover and the gasket. Not to mention a fair bit on the bottom of the crankcase itself.

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I also discovered some wonderfully good news! This engine's right-side crankcase seems to have been properly machined from the factory for the kick axle - what a relief!

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The shift shaft was so bent that it would not even move a 1/2" without binding up. So, I pulled out the angle grinder and cut off as much of the shaft as I could without risking damage to the crankcase. Still, l wasn't able to cut off enough of the bend to pull out the shift shaft smoothly. I had to improvise a punch from a 1/4" rachet extension and VERY nervously drive the bent shaft out of the crankcase.

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Installing the replacement shift shaft was no trouble at all. Now, I'm in search of an XT225 right-side cover in order to get the Kickstarter from my 1987's engine installed...
 

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Installing the replacement shift shaft was no trouble at all. Now, I'm in search of an XT225 right-side cover in order to get the Kickstarter from my 1987's engine installed...
Hey Dave, I was able to make a TW200 right side cover fit over the 6 plate clutch on my TTR225 conversion. It involved removing material from the heads of the clutch spring bolts,

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plus some material from the tops of the clutch spring towers on the inner clutch basket,

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and then some additional materials from the reinforcing ribs on the inside of the right side cover.

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The end result was a 6 plate clutch pack that fits inside of a TW200 right side cover. It involves quite a bit of work, but it is doable.

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There are more details in posts #119 and #122 in the thread below.

 

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I found a 2001 XT225 clutch side cover on eBay for $30 and free shipping on March 14, 2022. They are out there, you may have to keep checking daily, or set up a notification from eBay when one comes up though. Worth every penny.
 

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Good work and good write up. I'm cheap so personally I would have used diesel to flush the engine out. I have flushed several motorcycles out with diesel with no bad effects to the clutch. I even ran the engine for a bit while shaking it around to get every contaminate out. I flushed an engine twice, three times if you count the first gasoline flush from a stuck open float needle. This was when I had first got my Radian. After seeing tons of gooey greasy glub come out of the crank case I was glad of the stuck open float needle which caused the flush.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Hey Dave, I was able to make a TW200 right side cover fit over the 6 plate clutch on my TTR225 conversion.
Very interesting, Brian! Now I have to decide which way to go. I can't help but like the thought of my bike continuing to wear both 1987 side covers. However, if I can find a great deal on an XT225 clutch cover it's going to be impossible to pass up on the easier route.

I would have used diesel to flush the engine out.
I didn't know you could do that, Ken!
 
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hey Dave, I was able to make a TW200 right side cover fit over the 6 plate clutch on my TTR225 conversion.
I have decided that this is what I will do as well, Brian! I was all set to get started "machining" my 1987 right-side crankcase cover the other day when my damn Dremel decided to die on me! Can't complain too much though, as it served me for almost 15 years. Since the side cover of the TTR225 lacks any kind of internal re-enforcing ribs, I decided that I would do my best to grind them flush on the 87's cover. My new Dremel 4000 arrived yesterday and, utilizing the very handy Flex-shaft attachment, I got the work done.

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I also wanted to ask for an opinion concerning the output shaft and the kick idle gear. The TW's output shaft has an oil passageway to keep the idle gear lubricated. This hole is not present on the TTR225's output shaft - does this present a concern? My plan right now is to follow Ski Pro 3's method and machine a groove into the shaft for the outer C-clip that retains the gear on the shaft. I also ordered 3 of the inner idle gear washers in order to omit the inner C-clip and still properly space the gear off of the crankcase. So - with no oil lubing the gear on the shaft, I think loading everything up with as much axle grease as possible will be the plan. Thoughts?

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Something odd that I have discovered is that the parts diagrams from Yamaha do not reflect the actual part in the engine. I have looked at diagrams for several years of manufacture and they all show the same. The output shaft of the TTR225 should be fully machined to recieve the kickstart idle gear, as seen in the diagram below on Part #12. Popped in the shift shaft and output shaft seal today but, no further progress yet.

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