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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2015 TW and I just installed a DG R series exhaust. I’m a complete newbe with the bike and I have been reading a lot about rejets after putting on a slip on exhaust. Can someone point me in the right direction? Pros? Cons? Is it necessary? I’m in NY so where I am is about 600 feet above sea level.
 

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Me either...

Welcome to the forum!! :D
 

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I also have a 2015 and did a lot of research on doing a rejet. I would start with the mixture screw on the bottom of the carb. There is a little silver cap on it. That has to be removed. You can screw a screw in it a little and work the cap back out and off. Set it to 2 1/2 turns out and see how it does. Then you can go from there. I did everything at once instead of one step at a time and it caused me a lot of frustration but the guys on here got me straightened out.
 

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Hi Sara, welcome to the forum! I'll ask how long that you've had the bike, and have you noticed any changes to the way it runs since putting on the DG? Generally, the stock exhaust is not considered restrictive, so just adding the new can shouldn't make that much difference, if at all. I don't have one, so I don't know, but I'm familiar with the carb. I'd say that if you don't notice any noticeable negative running symptoms, then you can continue running it as is.

If you want to do some tweaking, then let's start with some learning, then we can go to work. Here is the carb and all of its parts... http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/881-tk-carb-photos-parts-identification.html

Here is a very close representation of how our carbs work:


and here is a general guide on http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/591-carb-tuning.html
 

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Hi Sara, welcome to the forum! I'll ask how long that you've had the bike, and have you noticed any changes to the way it runs since putting on the DG? Generally, the stock exhaust is not considered restrictive, so just adding the new can shouldn't make that much difference, if at all. I don't have one, so I don't know, but I'm familiar with the carb. I'd say that if you don't notice any noticeable negative running symptoms, then you can continue running it as is.

If you want to do some tweaking, then let's start with some learning, then we can go to work. Here is the carb and all of its parts... http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/881-tk-carb-photos-parts-identification.html

Here is a very close representation of how our carbs work:


and here is a general guide on http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/591-carb-tuning.html
Sara do what Larry says. He helped me get my 2015 perfect. Thanks again Larry!
 

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Hi Sara. I think you will need to rejet. If you have read any of my posts you will know when I bought my bikes they didn’t run right. The P.O. put on DG pipes and couldn’t tune them. Don’t mess with the air box as that affects tune too. Try to search the forum for carb rejetting. Under the Tech stickies lizardbrth posted some good carb tuning tips. Below this thread are similar threads about rejetting.

I Ended up with a 130 main jet, #34 pilot jet (easier starting), 2 -.02” washers on the needle an @ 2 -21/2 turns on the pilot screw. You can tune the carb with out removing it by loosening the screws that hold it to the rubber boots and rotating it clock wise so he bottom and top is exposed. You may have to remove the throttle cables to rotate it, Do some you tube searches on adding shims to CV carbs and also changing jets, etc. In the Tech stickies are carb pics and other info about adjusting the pilot screw etc.


Here is a cut from Larrys advice below:

“Okay, it sounds like you're pretty with it. Hopefully you've grabbed the service manual and the 2001+ addition as downloads. I would start with the valve adjustment. It's a pretty quick and easy job, and if they are out they can be a source of poor performance as well as noise. The cam adjuster will be the new automatic model that has no manual adjustment. It can be noisy also, but it doesn't mean it's bad. If you wanted to by a gasket for it, all you have to do is remove it, and check that it does not push in. It automatically moves out as slack develops in the cam chain, then locks into that position. If it can be pushed back in...it's bad and needs to be replaced. If it's bad it can allow slack in the chain causing timing issues, noise, etc.



2006 non-cali will have the newer CV carb from Teikei. I would clean it first. Take it apart, learn it, see what number is stamped on your main jet. Order a float bowl gasket, a needle valve kit, and the pilot screw kit. I, too, am in the "if it's running fantastic, then don't dick with it!" camp, but if you're pretty competent, you don't rely on the bike as your primary transportation, and you want the experience...then go ahead and play. Make note of how it is set up stock though, what main jet it has, and exactly how much the pilot screw is out from a lightly seated position. You can farkle things up really fast and wished you'd left it alone, but if you know how to get back, you can have confidence to try to dial it in better.



The stock main jet is probably a 125 or 126. If you are really into tuning your carb, just order a 128, 130, and 132. The 128 is probably going to be your CO jet, the 130 is a good sea-level jet, and the 132 can be a good choice for sea-level at your +100 degree temps. Since they are about $6/ea, you may even want to order a 125. If you have a 126 stock, then you will have the whole range to try out. Plus, if you are running too rich now, or if you run really high in CO, you'll have the leaner jet to try. When you go to raise your needle you'll need some shims or washers, as they'll be referred to on the forum. Alot of users have run the stainless McMaster 1/8" shims with a .010" thickness to to dial it in with since raising the needle between .020"-.050" seems to be the sweet spot. Those cost about $10-15 for a pack of 25. The cheaper route is going to the hardware or hobby store for 2.5mm flat washers. They are usually around .020"-.025" in thickness, and are around $0.10/ea. I can't recommend strongly enough to take it on with patience and follow Qwerty's directions in the carb tuning thread to be successful.



I'll also quote Qwerty from this thread for good info, "At normal altitudes, say sea level to 4000 feet, a #130 main, 2 flat washers pounded a bit thin, and 2.5 turns on the pilot is sweet, unless the air temp is really hot, in which case a #132, one flat washer under the needle, and 2.5 turns on the pilot screw will be a bit rich and will serve to lower engine temps a bit. If you want best fuel efficiency go with a #128, 2 flat washers under the needle, and 2.25 turns on the pilot screw. Higher than 4000 feet or so go with a #128, 1 flat washers under the needle, and 2 turns on the pilot screw. Above 7000 feet, #126 main, 1 washer, 1.75 turns on the pilot screw. That all works on Tdub, most of the time. YMMV."
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think I’m running lean now. It take me forever to get the bike warm with choking it. I know they are cold blooded but since my exhaust change it takes wayyyyyyy longer. Also I have popping back during deceleration and down shifting. Are these signs I should rejet? Or turn the screws out a bit? Small changes one at a time is what I’m hearing everyone say!
 

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If you work on your carb you will need JIS screw drivers they look like Phillips head but they are not. JIS stands for Japanese Industrial standard I bought mine on Amazon. There is a jIS screw driver in the tool kit but it is too large for the bowl screws but works for most other screws on the bike. The screws that tighten the boots to the carb are JIS and also the carb bowl screws on the bottom. The screws are soft and easily stippped out if you use Phillip screw drivers. Many replace the bowl screws with Allen head screws which are metric. If you haven’t taken a carb apart before get help from someone that has or watch a lot of you tube videos. Take pics of how it looks as you remove stuff.

I bought these screw drivers.

Bessel (Vessel) Ball Grip Difference and Screwdrivers Set No.220w-3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E55DL4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_BOoWAb8C4F83A
 
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I think I’m running lean now. It take me forever to get the bike warm with choking it. I know they are cold blooded but since my exhaust change it takes wayyyyyyy longer. Also I have popping back during deceleration and down shifting. Are these signs I should rejet? Or turn the screws out a bit? Small changes one at a time is what I’m hearing everyone say!
My cold starting was immediately improved by adjusting the pilot screw on the bottom front of the carb it may be covered by a plug with a hole in it. One of the bikes was at 1 1/2 turns out from closed and one was almost fully closed from the factory. I also put a bigger pilot jet in a #34 which made starting our bikes even easier when cold.
 
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