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I use my Monsterbrace inspired from MrGizmo's crutch stand. It works great and can be taken with you!
 

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I used to place two jackstands (one on either side) and use a long crowbar. Pass the bar underneath the swingarm junction and place the far end into the first jackstand...then holding the bike steady, I would lift up on the bar and then place the close-end into the other jackstand. It doesn't have to be very high...just an inch or so off the ground. The advantage is that the bike seems a bit more stable than being on a crutch-stand. That way if you need to wrestle with the axle or adjuster cams, you don't have to worry about the bike tipping sideways!

I also use a variation of the crutch-stand idea...works easier on other tasks like chain adjustment!
 

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I put a 2X6 or two under the kick stand and then lift the bike up against that until I can get enough blocks underneath the skid plate. Helps if the front tire is against the curb to stop it rolling. It's such a light machine compared to my old bikes I really enjoy that such a thing is possible!
 

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i just set a jack-stand with a rag on it on one the right side, then tilt the bike over onto it, and slide a jack-stand under the left side of the swing-arm.



i used a milk crate a few times, but found the jack-stands to be easier and more stable.
 

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Plumbstraight, don't let your tire installer try to seat bead of the Duro with high pressure and risk destroying tire and/or rim. Best to take home and budget 2 or 3 days carefully using various tricks used by forum folks to seat ATV tires on OEM TW rims.
 

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I've seen a regular 2 1/2 ton floor jack used in combo with 2 or 3" block under the side stand. Looks pretty safe. First jack up the mc with side stand down. Once the rear wheel is off the ground 2" or so you put a block under the side stand and lower the mc until it is securely resting on 3 points - the side stand, the front wheel, and the jack itself. Then it is stable and you can go ahead and remove your rear wheel.
 

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I did caution them about the beading process. I broke down the tire that was on it a shinko road tire. put the rim on a block and used the tractor with a young fellow at the controls lol. I let him move it up and down a few times to get the feel of it and then used the edge of the bucket to break the bead. worked great.
 

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One good idea I saw on youtube was using a surplus car tire to lay your front or rear tire and wheel onto when you change a tire, change a sprocket etc. You wont hurt your disk and its convenient height to work etc.

Another hassle with changing a tire for me has always been getting your tube valve stem through the rim. How to grab the darn thing... Get a valve stem snake screws on the top of your valve stem and poke it thru the rim hole before mounting. Once mounted, voila! Easy to get it pulled into place and rim nut on it.
 

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Another hassle with changing a tire for me has always been getting your tube valve stem through the rim. How to grab the darn thing... Get a valve stem snake screws on the top of your valve stem and poke it thru the rim hole before mounting. Once mounted, voila! Easy to get it pulled into place and rim nut on it.
If you partially inflate the tube, it's easy to get the valve stem through the rim, without fancy tools.
I bought a valve-stem tool a few years ago and found it more of a pain than a help.
 

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2004 TW200, Jets 'n Shims, DGV2, Acerbis Guards, ProTaper KX, JNS LED BLK
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If you partially inflate the tube, it's easy to get the valve stem through the rim, without fancy tools.
I bought a valve-stem tool a few years ago and found it more of a pain than a help.
Also reduces the chance of pinch-punctures from spooning on the new tire.

Put tube in a small bag with talc & shake it up before you install. It will help it seat properly in the tire, prevent twisting & also reduce possibility of pinch damage from tire spoons.
 
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