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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced yesterday the head gasket, both the bottom and the "top" one (the one made by three layers) so far seems that the head it no more swetting oil outside, which was anyway like this since april when I purchased the bike, it never created any problem, not a single one even with the oil level, it was just dirty all the time
Its so strange to look now the left side of the engine completely clear and no traces, I have to test further if with max speed for sustained time it will start leak again

Question tho, around the cylinder there is like a circle but triangled shaped gasket, what's that for? I mean that does that gasket actually do?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also another thing sorry:
What's the correct way to tighten the flywheel and the timingchain sprocket (the one on top of the head)
it was a pain since if you turn they start to spin and holding them to torque at 50 and 60 NM was actually quite hard
Maybe I am just an idiot but can I put the bike on the ground, put a very high gear and just torque down? or the timing chain itself will enlarge on one side?
What's the correct way?
 

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i'm not sure what you mean about triangled gasket, you have any pictures?

i used an impact drill to tighten both flywheel and cam bolts, but you can put it in gear and the wheel on the floor to lock everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i'm not sure what you mean about triangled gasket, you have any pictures?

i used an impact drill to tighten both flywheel and cam bolts, but you can put it in gear and the wheel on the floor to lock everything.
Is basically the orange one in this picture
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3Fe96N0srhA/TkCnCP-uTBI/AAAAAAAAAW8/CLGpQh9cK3c/s576/IMG_2824.JPG

For tightening the bolts at 50 and 60nm, you suggest put the bike in gear and tighten them, but won't this procedure "stretch" already the timing chain?
 

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Also another thing sorry:
What's the correct way to tighten the flywheel and the timingchain sprocket (the one on top of the head)
it was a pain since if you turn they start to spin and holding them to torque at 50 and 60 NM was actually quite hard
Maybe I am just an idiot but can I put the bike on the ground, put a very high gear and just torque down? or the timing chain itself will enlarge on one side?
What's the correct way?
I used a flywheel holder I got from Amazon and torque wrench to tighten the flywheel and cam bolts. I had the same thoughts as you about the possibility of stretching the cam chain but then figured a single loading isn't going to do much to it when you compare it to the loads it will probably encounter when the engine is running.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also another thing sorry:
What's the correct way to tighten the flywheel and the timingchain sprocket (the one on top of the head)
it was a pain since if you turn they start to spin and holding them to torque at 50 and 60 NM was actually quite hard
Maybe I am just an idiot but can I put the bike on the ground, put a very high gear and just torque down? or the timing chain itself will enlarge on one side?
What's the correct way?
I used a flywheel holder I got from Amazon and torque wrench to tighten the flywheel and cam bolts. I had the same thoughts as you about the possibility of stretching the cam chain but then figured a single loading isn't going to do much to it when you compare it to the loads it will probably encounter when the engine is running.

You sure it is not going to harm the timing chain? You think the torque it handle is much stronger during a speedrun?
Also at this point I could just set in 3rd gear and put on the ground no?
 

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Is basically the orange one in this picture
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3Fe96N0srhA/TkCnCP-uTBI/AAAAAAAAAW8/CLGpQh9cK3c/s576/IMG_2824.JPG

For tightening the bolts at 50 and 60nm, you suggest put the bike in gear and tighten them, but won't this procedure "stretch" already the timing chain?
i didnt really consider that, as mentioned above, i'm sure the chain can withstand more stress than 60nnm, i was going to suggest you put a bar of some sort through 1 of the cam wheels holes to lock it, but didnt want to be responsible for any damage.

personally i just tighten mine with an 18v dewalt impact driver so its a long time since i did it by hand,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i didnt really consider that, as mentioned above, i'm sure the chain can withstand more stress than 60nnm, i was going to suggest you put a bar of some sort through 1 of the cam wheels holes to lock it, but didnt want to be responsible for any damage.

personally i just tighten mine with an 18v dewalt impact driver so its a long time since i did it by hand,
Just worried that applying too much torque will destroy everything :(
 
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