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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys.
i have an 89 that has sat for a long time - tank was rusted through for example.....

this is my first TW - so i have some questions.

1 - i have on operational tail light - brake light etc and indicators (after replacing the flasher relay) but no headlight shining - on low or high (and blue high beam dash light is not shining either) neutral light does shine - and so does the orange flasher light.

is there a separate headlight fuse?
i found only one fuse in a plastic inline holder with a red wire beside the CDI and that tests fine on my multimeter.

also - no starter motor - not even a click (battery is fully charged) - there is a click from what i think is one of the two relays when i turn the key.
i have a spare new starter solenoid - so may try that next
i have only cleaned it up and pulled most plugs and blasted them with contact cleaner so far - but i think this bike has sat for YEARS.
2 - the clutch perch switch - does this need to be plugged in (or the connection closed) to start the bike?
also - the side stand switch? can i simply disconnect these - or do i need to bridge them for the bike to start?

any other tips would be appreciated.

i also found a PURPLE wire off one of the starter solenoid large terminals - it looks non-original and goes nowhere.......

can anyone help?

Loving this little bike though - and my second one will be here later this week!

ken
 

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If the bike is in neutral it should start with the kick stand down and the clutch lever not pulled in. Check the handle bar switch with the start button and kill switch, there could be some corrosion in there that would cause problems and it is easy to clean. Headlight not working and the blue light not showing could be a plug connector behind the headlight in the rubber boots. See if your headlight is in fact not burned out. You should be able to hook it direct to a 12 volt battery to check it. I can't help you with the purple wire and have no clue about that.

I have a sticky posted above regarding Bringing back a sitting bike with some good advice for all of us. I have brought back some real basket cases by following some simple but time consuming procedures I mapped out in that thread. There is only one fuse that I know of behind the right side cover where all the wires are located. If any of the electrics are working then your fuse is good. If your fuse is fried then nothing will work. Search through the posted stickys above and you can find the wiring diagrams and it could help you trace these issues. Some tanks can be cleaned of the rust inside while others could be too far gone. Lots of threads here on tank cleaning and internal sealing but most important after you do get it cleaned up is installing a small fuel filter in the line from the tank to the carb. Clean the carb as I am sure it has gunk and clogs and very important to check the seal around the rubber boot between the carb and air box. These boots shrink and can cause all sorts of running issues if not tightly sealed. Mice love building nests up in the air box right behind the battery where it draws air from. We have dissected these old style carbs in every way known to man and the slightest blockage will give you fits. Tons of info here on this finicky issue for sure and some get very lucky with just a good cleaning while others go through the pains of hell trying to get the bike running right. I just gave up on a couple old carbs and bought brand new ones and solved the problem immediately.

With the electrics I go through a process with my multi meter checking each wire from one end to the other to make sure there is continuity and no hidden breaks. Those bullet type push in connectors can get corroded or have a loose fit and all the multi connectors could need some cleaning, all it takes is just one bad connection or a bad ground anywhere to have you scratching your head. Been there and done it and finally bought a complete wiring harness and replaced the entire mess to get it working. I hate electrics! The 1988 through 2000 TWs are some of the very best ones IMO and once you get it all figured out they are great bikes. There is a couple wires that come from the left side engine cover, Stator, and go up to the battery compartment. Some guys tend to pinch these wires when they change sprockets and put that engine cover back on by not routing them in the tiny slot correctly. It is probably safe to say if you have spark at the plug then this is not an issue on your bike. Just checking for spark at the plug is a good indicator that the bike should run. Key on and the kill switch in the right position and you should see spark. One step at a time doing all the checks should get you up and running and just about all the info you could ever need can be found right here in the technical section, stickies and the posted write ups many of us have gone to great lengths in posting.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the bike is in neutral it should start with the kick stand down and the clutch lever not pulled in. Check the handle bar switch with the start button and kill switch, there could be some corrosion in there that would cause problems and it is easy to clean. Headlight not working and the blue light not showing could be a plug connector behind the headlight in the rubber boots. See if your headlight is in fact not burned out. You should be able to hook it direct to a 12 volt battery to check it. I can't help you with the purple wire and have no clue about that.

I have a sticky posted above regarding Bringing back a sitting bike with some good advice for all of us. I have brought back some real basket cases by following some simple but time consuming procedures I mapped out in that thread. There is only one fuse that I know of behind the right side cover where all the wires are located. If any of the electrics are working then your fuse is good. If your fuse is fried then nothing will work. Search through the posted stickys above and you can find the wiring diagrams and it could help you trace these issues. Some tanks can be cleaned of the rust inside while others could be too far gone. Lots of threads here on tank cleaning and internal sealing but most important after you do get it cleaned up is installing a small fuel filter in the line from the tank to the carb. Clean the carb as I am sure it has gunk and clogs and very important to check the seal around the rubber boot between the carb and air box. These boots shrink and can cause all sorts of running issues if not tightly sealed. Mice love building nests up in the air box right behind the battery where it draws air from. We have dissected these old style carbs in every way known to man and the slightest blockage will give you fits. Tons of info here on this finicky issue for sure and some get very lucky with just a good cleaning while others go through the pains of hell trying to get the bike running right. I just gave up on a couple old carbs and bought brand new ones and solved the problem immediately.

With the electrics I go through a process with my multi meter checking each wire from one end to the other to make sure there is continuity and no hidden breaks. Those bullet type push in connectors can get corroded or have a loose fit and all the multi connectors could need some cleaning, all it takes is just one bad connection or a bad ground anywhere to have you scratching your head. Been there and done it and finally bought a complete wiring harness and replaced the entire mess to get it working. I hate electrics! The 1988 through 2000 TWs are some of the very best ones IMO and once you get it all figured out they are great bikes. There is a couple wires that come from the left side engine cover, Stator, and go up to the battery compartment. Some guys tend to pinch these wires when they change sprockets and put that engine cover back on by not routing them in the tiny slot correctly. It is probably safe to say if you have spark at the plug then this is not an issue on your bike. Just checking for spark at the plug is a good indicator that the bike should run. Key on and the kill switch in the right position and you should see spark. One step at a time doing all the checks should get you up and running and just about all the info you could ever need can be found right here in the technical section, stickies and the posted write ups many of us have gone to great lengths in posting.

GaryL
thanks Gary.
i have pulled the headlight lamp and it's all good - there are some pretty bad wiring joins - and they are next on my agenda.
i think the handlebar switches are next - ill strip and clean those, download a wiring diagram and make sense of it before pulling it all apart.
i have a replacement tank - so that wont be an issue.
i haven't tried kicking it over yet - was going to get the starter motor turning first, as i thought it would be easier with the electric leg...
i'm not in any hurry - just want to do it properly and finish up with a reliable bike at the end.
i will check out the stickies - thanks for your reply.

Ken
 

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Just checking Ken, do you know what I mean by the Kill Switch? On the right handle bar just above the start button there is a red flip switch. If that is in the off position then you will not get any juice to the starter motor and no spark to the plug. If there is corrosion or rust inside on those contacts then the bike is dead until it gets cleaned up to make contact.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just checking Ken, do you know what I mean by the Kill Switch? On the right handle bar just above the start button there is a red flip switch. If that is in the off position then you will not get any juice to the starter motor and no spark to the plug. If there is corrosion or rust inside on those contacts then the bike is dead until it gets cleaned up to make contact.

GaryL
yep - i get you Gary.
i'll carefully strip and clean both left hand and right hand switchblocks and buy NEW ones if i dont like the look of them.

ken
 

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yep - i get you Gary.
i'll carefully strip and clean both left hand and right hand switchblocks and buy NEW ones if i dont like the look of them.

ken
All of the safety switches seem to work in conjunction with one another. There are a few and they all seem to be tied together. Kick stand, neutral indicator switch behind the left engine cover, kill switch, clutch switch and the light box plus the key switch. I think but am not sure that if the bulb for the neutral light is burned out even that could cause a no start issue. Also, I think but am not sure, the clutch lever switch only comes into play if you want to start the bike while it is in gear. Like if you are climbing a steep hill and stall the engine it should re start in gear as long as the clutch lever is pulled in. I am not too good with electric but some of these guys who have done the hollow mods where they delete the battery and most of these safety switches might have the answers you seek. When I rebuilt the 1988 basket case I had a while back I had the same issue as you describe. Juice everywhere but it would not spin the starter motor. I cleaned the kill switch on the handle bar and still nothing. I pulled the headlight to get at all the bundles of wires behind it and after I unplugged and re plugged all of the bullet connectors and the other multiple plastic plug connectors it came to life. I have no idea what one was the culprit but it was up in there where the problem was.

GaryL
 
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The headlight will only come on with the engine running.I found with mine that unplugging cleaning and putting on a little dielectric grease solved most of my problems.Gary was a big help too.
 

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The headlight will only come on with the engine running.I found with mine that unplugging cleaning and putting on a little dielectric grease solved most of my problems.Gary was a big help too.
This is interesting! On my 2006 TW the headlight comes on when the key switch is turned on, bike does not need to be running. I do not remember if this was the same with my older, pre 2001 bikes or not. It is possible they made a change in the electrical system and the older bikes do not come on unless the engine is running but I just don't know and don't have an older model to try at the moment.

GaryL
 

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87's for sure don't come on unless running.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
The headlight will only come on with the engine running.I found with mine that unplugging cleaning and putting on a little dielectric grease solved most of my problems.Gary was a big help too.
OK!
that really helps!
i'm chasing a non existing gremlin!
thanks so much.
as i said, this is my first TW and this info is REALLY valuable!
!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just checking Ken, do you know what I mean by the Kill Switch? On the right handle bar just above the start button there is a red flip switch. If that is in the off position then you will not get any juice to the starter motor and no spark to the plug. If there is corrosion or rust inside on those contacts then the bike is dead until it gets cleaned up to make contact.

GaryL
throttle side switch block was pretty dirty. i cleaned it all up - then unwound all the electrical tape around the cable to find multiple amateur joins on both the run switch circuit and the starter circuit.
of course the part is no longer available new.
i may build a pigtail to eliminate it and run a MX style kill switch to pop the starter. all plugging into the loom so i can reverse it if i find a good switch block.
 

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throttle side switch block was pretty dirty. i cleaned it all up - then unwound all the electrical tape around the cable to find multiple amateur joins on both the run switch circuit and the starter circuit.
of course the part is no longer available new.
i may build a pigtail to eliminate it and run a MX style kill switch to pop the starter. all plugging into the loom so i can reverse it if i find a good switch block.
I think I have a switch block in one of my boxes of parts. Will look for you tomorrow when I get up by the barn. Seems apparent they changed the electric wiring at some point. My headlight, tail light and front blinkers come on when I turn the key. I would guess right around 2001 when they changed the part number of the wiring harness. That would mean that bikes from 1988-2000 probably have to be running for the headlight to come on while newer bikes come on by the switch.

GaryL
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I think I have a switch block in one of my boxes of parts. Will look for you tomorrow when I get up by the barn. Seems apparent they changed the electric wiring at some point. My headlight, tail light and front blinkers come on when I turn the key. I would guess right around 2001 when they changed the part number of the wiring harness. That would mean that bikes from 1988-2000 probably have to be running for the headlight to come on while newer bikes come on by the switch.

GaryL
well - any help would be appreciated!
ken
 

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That would mean that bikes from 1988-2000 probably have to be running for the headlight to come on while newer bikes come on by the switch.GaryL
Correct – ’98 headlight comes up when the engine turns over ……
 

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Any luck with what we discussed in PMs?

GaryL
 
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