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Discussion Starter #1
2010 TW, just replaced carb with Chinese knockoff from Amazon. Looks great honestly. Installed my 130 jet on it, and it wouldnt run. No gas getting to carb, pulled and had to reset the float. Re-installed and gas overflowing at first, seemed to correct itself. Bike started up immediately, however - the throttle and revs are crazy high. The throttle cable is not installed, I manually twisted the butterfly after warmup. Choke was off, and the smallest (literally just a few mm) twist of the throttle would make the engine skyrocket. At first I thought maybe an air leak, but it wasnt screaming away, when I backed off it would lower the revs. I let it warm up a little more but it wouldnt stop. Not an idle problem as I manually move the throttle to idle setting, and once there the revs stay the same.

Could this be a pilot screw adjustment? I set it to 2 1/2 turns out. I swapped to the Chinese carb because the pilot screw was stripped, and so were the threads to back out the pilot screw. Any ideas where to start? Just ran the gas out of the carb and will wait for engine to cool before pulling again.

Let me know you thoughts, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did not. Set it to the setting I had previously on the original carb. Am I right to assume that the pilot screw "could" be the culprit? That was my original assumption - will try to adjust to 3/4 in about 30 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
UPDATE: Turned 3/4 out pilot screw. That only helped the idle stay steady with choke on (about 4k rpms) however, as soon as I move the throttle slightly, revs up to WOT almost instantly. With choke off, runs then slowly lowers RPMs to a stall after a bit. Could it be the slide/needle setting? Not sure why this bike has been giving such carb problems recently. Has always been dependable.
 

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To rev that high the engine needs the extra air from somewhere. Assuming the butterfly is secure on the throttle shaft.
 

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I'd check the CV diaphram. Sounds like it's somehow sucking the needle up and dumping fuel into the engine. There should be two springs in there to keep the needle in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Man, I reset the float and checked diaphragm, hopefully it works.

BUUUTTTT.... something I have expected - I have a circuit that is drawing from the battery with the switch off/key out of the bike. Just got a new LiFePO4 battery last week, charged it up and worked great. Took key out and put it in the gas cap while I was working on carb, go to start it today and not enough power to turn it over. I hate tracking down electrical problems lol, can someone help me out with the "usual suspects"

Bike never had problems in two years, now I cant get it to run so I can ride after a stripped pilot screw! :(
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
UPDATE: This clearly is an electrical issue. I plugged in one of my drained batteries (reading 7v MAX and wont charge up), and disconnected the negative on battery. Put multimeter on 9v battery, touched negative lead with negative battery post while ignition in OFF position... Read a whopping 6V!!! Does this mean theres a parasitic draw of 6v, no wonder my batteries dont last more than a week!

Anyways, I pulled the ignition switch and it looks super clean. I took the multimeter and put on negative terminal on battery and touched all the copper circles on the ignition switch and they were almost all reading the same 6v. Not sure whats normal, or where to start looking. Will try and post pics of the ignition switch to see if you can let me know how they looks. No crud or crustiness anywhere.

EDIT 2: The black ground cable from the rectifier with ignition key OFF shows 0 volts, with key ON it shows 7 volts (battery is half charged showing 7.88v). The BLUE cable attached to the rectifier shows ~6 volts with key OFF. Im just confused what to do next. I was looking for a wire that would drop volts when disconnected = culprit correct?
 
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