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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My stainless steel bolts finally arrived so I was able to get my homemade risers installed on the '96. On my '13, I also have a plate I fabricated that moves the bars forward 1.3". Wasn't able to use it on the '96 because of interference of the front brake cable and the D-Tusk hand guards. Tried various cable routing paths but just wasn't confident the cable would slide through the guides freely with suspension movement. Even without the "forward" plate I had to turn the cable guides around to face toward the front of the bike. Disc brake hoses are so much easier to deal with! 1-3/4 rise makes a lot of difference, even without moving them forward.

Before

1.JPG



After
A little chunky but the price was right!!

2.JPG
 

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My stainless steel bolts finally arrived so I was able to get my homemade risers installed on the '96. On my '13, I also have a plate I fabricated that moves the bars forward 1.3". Wasn't able to use it on the '96 because of interference of the front brake cable and the D-Tusk hand guards. Tried various cable routing paths but just wasn't confident the cable would slide through the guides freely with suspension movement. Even without the "forward" plate I had to turn the cable guides around to face toward the front of the bike. Disc brake hoses are so much easier to deal with! 1-3/4 rise makes a lot of difference, even without moving them forward.

A little chunky but the price was right!!

View attachment 88489
My wood testbed risers looked almost like yours...except they were would. I was pretty cautious on my test ride with the sketchy wood blocks. You did the right thing by not going down the wood block path!

It's kind of satisfying to make something on your own...and it works! Nice job! Two :icon_thumright::icon_thumright: up!
 

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My stainless steel bolts finally arrived so I was able to get my homemade risers installed on the '96. On my '13, I also have a plate I fabricated that moves the bars forward 1.3". Wasn't able to use it on the '96 because of interference of the front brake cable and the D-Tusk hand guards. Tried various cable routing paths but just wasn't confident the cable would slide through the guides freely with suspension movement. Even without the "forward" plate I had to turn the cable guides around to face toward the front of the bike. Disc brake hoses are so much easier to deal with! 1-3/4 rise makes a lot of difference, even without moving them forward.

Before

View attachment 88481



After
A little chunky but the price was right!!

View attachment 88489
Kind of curious, do you get any movement or shifting with the bottoms being flat. Mine aren't homemade but drop down into the clamps. See the pic. I thought about doing something like but was worried about movement under tough conditions.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Kind of curious, do you get any movement or shifting with the bottoms being flat. Mine aren't homemade but drop down into the clamps. See the pic. I thought about doing something like but was worried about movement under tough conditions.

I have had them on my '13 for a few years. So far, no movement, even after a couple of wipe outs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Didn't really care for the looks of my homemade risers just sitting on top of the handlebar mount so I went ahead and put the stainless plate under them similar to my '13. Should give them better support also. Went from looking "chunky" to "rugged utilitarian".:D


'96 without plate

2.JPG



'96 with plate

96.JPG



'13 with forward mount and risers

13.JPG
 

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That forward mounting plate looks tailor made for a digital tachometer/clock!


Tom
 
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Discussion Starter #8
That forward mounting plate looks tailor made for a digital tachometer/clock!


Tom
When I had the heated grips, that was the controller mount. Does look kinda empty there now.:D
 
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